Thinking of turbocharging your P5? Here's a guide for getting started...

I have a friend with an 02 P5 with 120K miles on it. Would it be better for us to drop in a turbo'd motor from a MSP or is reliable enough to go ahead and add the turbo to this car?
 
if you've already got 120K on the clock, i'd say buy a new motor, or used, and start from scratch with it. Tear it down and build it up

the MSP motor is the same motor you've already got just with a turbo strapped to it
 
Ahh ok, I'll search around the forums to see what info there is about building one up. This would be a 1st time project and it won't hurt to learn on an older car...lol
 
I'ma get some turbo

Alright, after reading through everything I'm certain turbo is the way for me. However I don't want to blow up the engine, so If I use a boost controller and keep the psi relatively low for daily driving but raise it for those "interesting" moments, can I expect the engine to last me for a few years longer starting at 45k mileage? I'm thinking a Garret GT25R would be just fine. I don't need monster power. BUT, If you guys know of a turbo setup that balances out power and reliability with a boost controller, please enlighten me.
 
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if you run past 10 psi you will be risking your motor, even if you do it on occassion

some people have no problems with it on occassion, others will have the motor blow instantly....you really can't tell

leave it under 10 psi and you should be just fine, especially if it is on a gt2554r (the stock msp turbo)
 
Alright, sounds great. Now the one step that intimidates me is welding the barbed fitting to the oil pan. How difficult would it be weld this? Does it involve drilling a hole into the oil pan and installing the barb fitting? Now I'm totally new to this, and this seems quite a ways beyond me. I'm reading through this and many steps involve "mounting a banjo fitting." Is the majority of this mod a bolt-on process or fancy weldwork? Bolt on work doesn't intimidate me so much so, but welding? No way. I don't want to permenantly attatch some fitter to the oil pan. And also, there isn't a manual to install all the parts is there? Oh boy. A WALL OF TEXT, well not really. Thanks for responding.

Man I like a lot of the advice you're giving, especially the oil-filter-adapter-plate. I don't want to resort to a Turbo-Kit, unless you thoroughly recommend it for a newbie. And I am a newb, remember.
 
I thoroughly recommend it for a noobie if you can afford it...bolt on kits are a thousand times easier to install

yes you will have to permanently weld that fitting onto the oil pan, and the oil pan will have to be removed to do so....my recomendation is to get a spare oil pan for welding

you WILL have to do this step even if you get a premade turbo kit as well
 
I have a stock oil pan with a 3/8" push-on fitting already welded in that I'm trying to get rid of :D
 
neox.286 said:
I don't recomend just screwing it in, too much room for a bad seal...just get it welded
Click to expand...
i agree, you can bolt it but the weld is a better job.
i've been boosting my automatic since 65k, i now have 130k and both the tranny and engine are working just fine...6 psi. it's no a huge kick, but it was just want this automatic needed! 65k miles of smiles:)!
 
dude the way i did it is perfectly fine....it used the seal that came with it plus gasket maker on both sides and i used two big bolts with lock washers, and tightened them as hard as possible....its not going anywhere...ever
 
mp3-79bronco said:
dude the way i did it is perfectly fine....it used the seal that came with it plus gasket maker on both sides and i used two big bolts with lock washers, and tightened them as hard as possible....its not going anywhere...ever
Click to expand...
The fitting isn't going anywhere but that does not mean oil still will not leak. Hell, the stuff can work it's way around threads!
 
weld is the preferred method, if you can't get it welded the bolt on will work. just trying to minimize future leakage issue, that's all...vibration and time will take it's toll, believe me.
 
magnumP5 said:
I have a stock oil pan with a 3/8" push-on fitting already welded in that I'm trying to get rid of :D
Click to expand...

I will buy this! Give it to me for a reasonable price and you got a deal. MY email is Kurtanius21@hotmail.com. please respond asap!

By the way... It's not like leaking is it? IT seems secure, right? And are there any other parts I might need welded that I'll have to buy?
 
not trying to hurt the sale of your oil pan or anything, but this is a viable option..like i said i used the gasket plus gasket maker on both sides....ive had this pan on for a while now and not even a drop of oil has make it past...it makes a VERY good seal
 
mp3-79bronco said:
not trying to hurt the sale of your oil pan or anything, but this is a viable option..like i said i used the gasket plus gasket maker on both sides....ive had this pan on for a while now and not even a drop of oil has make it past...it makes a VERY good seal
Click to expand...

I understand what you're saying. I don't doubt it's working for you, but my lack of confidence in my mechanical skills convinces me to buy. You may be able to build a leak-proof pan and if you have a spare, I could buy it off you if magnum doesn't respond. I just don't want to risk building a defective oil-pan solely cause of my sub-par machanical experience.
 
i dont plan on making one to sell i was just stating what i did...but ya I say if he has one already made buy his for sure
 
as said above in my writeup, and in the thread:
I do not recommend using this method

if it worked for you, great...I still don't recommend it, nor do I wish for it to be recomended in my writeup thread on this...I'm not trying to be an ass, but this method is highly not recommended and as such please do not continue to recommend it in here, thank you
 
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