I think you just misread what I said - that location is ideal but you have to make sure the oil dead-ends into the sender. IE block - tee (with oil feed line) - tee (with aftermarket pressure sender) - stock pressure sender. The only thing you need to worry about with this setup is cracking the tees. I had this happen when I first used brass tees. I switched the base tee to a stainless steel one and everything was fine. Either way, now my pressure sender is on a sandwich plate.
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- Thread starter neox.286
- Start date
hahaha, I did misread what you said....I figured you meant something like that, you know your stuff
but yea, I also had trouble with brass Tees....the first one I used completely sheared off all of it's threads and fell out! (yes, it was the right size and all)....needless to say, I switched to a stainless after that as well and no problems yet!
and yea, I put the pressure sender for my gauge onto a sandwhich plate too....btw, I did want to as how exactly you mount a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail? like what is the mounting location for it? I think I remember it was you that had done that (either that or maxmazda)
but yea, I also had trouble with brass Tees....the first one I used completely sheared off all of it's threads and fell out! (yes, it was the right size and all)....needless to say, I switched to a stainless after that as well and no problems yet!
and yea, I put the pressure sender for my gauge onto a sandwhich plate too....btw, I did want to as how exactly you mount a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail? like what is the mounting location for it? I think I remember it was you that had done that (either that or maxmazda)
Yep, both Maxx Mazda and I have mechanical fuel pressure gauges on our fuel rails but we both have the Perrin fuel rail. I don't know how he did it but I found a 3/8" NPT adaptor on Summit Racing's website. The Perrin fuel rail has a 3/8" NPT plug on the passenger's side. The adaptor I bought has 1 male 3/8" NPT end, 1 female 3/8" NPT end and it has a 1/8" NPT port on top. I just removed the plug from the fuel rail, used the plug to close the other end of the adaptor and then got an Autometer mechanical fuel pressure gauge and put that in the 1/8" port on top of the adaptor. I've used the gauge as a reference a few times but it certainly spices up the engine bay a little
kid prodigy
Member
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- 03.5 Protege 5
So I would need to buy a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to do this cause I have adj. FPR
yea, in the end if you are going to put it on a perrin fuel rail though it really isn't worth the electrical upgrade imho, simply cause it looks great in that spot and it fits even better....but if it's going on the stock fuel rail then yea the electrical is a nice upgrade
blueprotegelx
iZoom
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
I found this pic on one of the build threads I have saved. I was curious what line it is that I have circled. Is that the oil line or a coolant line? Seems like it goes to the oil sending unit, but for some reason when I recall working on my protege it is in the coolant location....Where the sending unit is, is also where the oil feed goes to as well correct? I think I confused myself on the locations...
it is a coolant line...if you look closely it isn't attached to the oil pressure sender...it's supposed to go to the oil cooler
but the oil cooler is different and as far as I can see in those pics he just capped that line off nearby the oil pressure sender
but the oil cooler is different and as far as I can see in those pics he just capped that line off nearby the oil pressure sender
blueprotegelx
iZoom
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
he has a line that goes from the oil sending unit and wraps around. is that where the oil feed goes?
blueprotegelx
iZoom
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
seems like it would be easier for me to just get braided lines and fittings for oil and coolant feeds. i need to continuing research...i wish there was software where you could do like a 360 view
yea that would rock lol
but yea, use braided steel lines for oil...I don't think anyone makes braided lines for coolant though
unless you can find braided steel lines with banjo fittings on the end stick to generic coolant lines....trust me, they are quite easy to hook up
but yea, use braided steel lines for oil...I don't think anyone makes braided lines for coolant though
unless you can find braided steel lines with banjo fittings on the end stick to generic coolant lines....trust me, they are quite easy to hook up
blueprotegelx
iZoom
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
so you think i should def rock the stock coolant line and then hook up a braided line for oil? could i also just use a long and thick hose that would stand up to the heat of the oil?
EDIT: for the oil line is it best to use brass fittings or something else? i can get brass easily.
EDIT: for the oil line is it best to use brass fittings or something else? i can get brass easily.
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you can use brass fittings for the oil, but I recommend steel ones if you can get them
since you already HAVE all of the stock coolant lines I highly recommend just using those...they are already precut to length and it is easy to bolt up
magnump5: I stand corrected about finding braided coolant lines with banjo fittings...however, at the same time I still say it would be easier to just use stock lines...it's really quite simple if you already have them
if you don't already have stock lines, then my recommendation is that you can use the braided coolant lines, but they aren't needed and are probably more expensive than good ol' rubber line that will also get the job done just as well, ya know?
since you already HAVE all of the stock coolant lines I highly recommend just using those...they are already precut to length and it is easy to bolt up
magnump5: I stand corrected about finding braided coolant lines with banjo fittings...however, at the same time I still say it would be easier to just use stock lines...it's really quite simple if you already have them
if you don't already have stock lines, then my recommendation is that you can use the braided coolant lines, but they aren't needed and are probably more expensive than good ol' rubber line that will also get the job done just as well, ya know?
blueprotegelx
iZoom
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
you guys are awesome and i feel a lot more comfortable now with doing the turbo setup!
now all i need are gauges, i/c piping, gaskets. sweet....
now all i need are gauges, i/c piping, gaskets. sweet....
mp3-79bronco
Member
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- 2001 protege mp3
me and you are gonna race to see who gets boosted first lol.... its a toss up though...i have no job, but i have more of the parts lol
