Thinking of turbocharging your P5? Here's a guide for getting started...

you mean you would like a diagram for turbocharger installation? well, I might be able to do something like that if I get the chance, I'll post it up here if I do

as far as I know, other than the how-tos on here, there aren't any kinds of installation manuals

i mean like if you were to goto mazda you can describere the part is located and they can go into their computer and get a view of where the part is and it's number. i've been searchin on here and nothing yet. not many take pictures that close to their turbo....
 
well what the guys at mazda can see in their system and what we can see at www.onlinemazdaparts.com are the same

however, yea you are right that they can view diagrams of which part numbers go where (generally)...and I think the shop manual reflects that stuff, but its almost a foot thick solid of papers haha...I don't think that anyone could be bothered to sit down and upload all of that

anyone else know of any way to access that kind of information?
 
yeah. i mean i basically just want to know how the coolant lines for the msp go on. i have two pipes and i assume one is coolant line and other is oil that has the oil filter plate on it. In the pic below it's the two pipes on the left side....

myturbokit-1.jpg
 
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OH thats cake, if you got those lines you will be amazed at how much easier it makes installation

I'll draw up a quick diagram for you and post it in a few minutes after I finish checking through the recent posts
 
The lines on the left are all part of the coolant system. The "oil plate" you refer to is actually the MSP's stock oil cooler (oil-to-water). If that's the kit you have consider yourself lucky as they're very hard to come by. However, I'm not sure if it will work on stock sedans/P5s/etc. because the MSP has a longer threaded stud where the oil filter goes to hold on the cooler. This is why MSPs cannot use oil sandwich plates - the oil cooler gets in the way and prevents a complete seal.
 
yes, this is true...however it looks like that kit he posted has the extended filter stud on it....if they guy is not running a sandwhich plate not on his msp then he would not be able to run the stock oil filter stud, so I'm guessing that my eyes aren't deceiving me when it appears the bolt for the oil cooler has the stud on it in the pic he posted (anyone else think it looks as such?)

I think you can still get the extended stud from mazda though, I'm not positive on that but I think you can
 
Yeah, I used to want the MSP oil cooler before I went with a sandwich plate - so much more convenient. Now I just need to find a way to rig up an oil cooler. I have no problem achieving oil temperatures in excess of 240 degrees Fahrenheit during extended or heavy driving. I just don't know where I'd put it or where I'd route the lines. I did learn something new the other day though. Another member here is utilizing an auto transmission radiator (has provisions for a tranny cooler on it) to cool his oil-water cooler.
 
there is a stud and it is rather long. this kit is all from asmo 03mp5 who has a p5. i am not familiar with the oil and coolant lines yet, and i'm having a hard time as not many post about it other than the custom lines. with the oil return line, i still have to tap a hole in the back for the oil feed correct? any information on the coolant and the oil line would greatly be appreciated!
 
i'm also heading home this weekend so i can get better pics of the kit if you guys would like in order to help me out with the two lines.
 
Yeah, I used to want the MSP oil cooler before I went with a sandwich plate - so much more convenient. Now I just need to find a way to rig up an oil cooler. I have no problem achieving oil temperatures in excess of 240 degrees Fahrenheit during extended or heavy driving. I just don't know where I'd put it or where I'd route the lines. I did learn something new the other day though. Another member here is utilizing an auto transmission radiator (has provisions for a tranny cooler on it) to cool his oil-water cooler.


hmm, interesting
though seems like a lot of extra piping for the oil to travel through to me, wouldn't it be easier to place a oil cooler on the turbo feed line between the block and the turbo? wouldn't add nearly as much oil line

however, another option is to talk to docB about how they have it setup with an external PRV.....basically they relocate the filter with a nice thick oil line, it would allow you to run either an oil cooler on the block and a sandwhich plate on the filter, or vice versa

heres the diagrams:
(pardon the sloppyness, I just did it in like 5 minutes)

labels.gif


Line A includes
--oil cooler
--oil cooler -> water feed hose
--oil cooler -> thermostat hose/metal line

Line B includes
--2-way banjo bolt
--water feed metal line to turbo
--open connection for the oil cooler -> water feed hose



motorBACK.gif


BTW I was being retarded and called it the knock sensor, I meant the oil pressure sender
Ok, if you look at the back of the N/A 2.0L FS-DE motor, just to the top and right of the oil filter/oil cooler combination is a bolt in the block....this bolt blocks the outlet used by the msp for water feed to the turbo....line B screws into that bolt and travels along the back side, then the drivers side of the motor to hook up with the turbo water feed line

line A is the oil cooler assembly which also runs along the back, then the drivers side, and then the front of the motor to mate with the thermostat housing....the other side of the water cooler hooks up to the two-way banjo bolt that screws into the block for line B

motorTOP.gif

This is the top view of the motor

(it was easier to show it with the oil filter/cooler combination not touching the block...you get the idea)
to note if you are curious (though I don't think it will fit any other way) line A mates up with the lower connection on the thermostat, the upper connection on the thermostat runs to the front/drivers side corner of the block and uses an L-shaped rubber fitting ot mate to the main water block....in the MSP setup this L-shaped rubber fitting is replaced with a three-way rubber fitting and the water return line meets up with this fitting perfectly, I highly recommend using that rubber fitting

just to clarify what I have said above....hope it helps! if you have any questions let me know
 
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there is a stud and it is rather long. this kit is all from asmo 03mp5 who has a p5. i am not familiar with the oil and coolant lines yet, and i'm having a hard time as not many post about it other than the custom lines. with the oil return line, i still have to tap a hole in the back for the oil feed correct? any information on the coolant and the oil line would greatly be appreciated!


NO! don't tap a hole in the block for the oil feed...it's more work than is needed and there is way too much room for error if you have never done it before....there is a much much simpler route:
take the knock sensor from just above and to the left of the oil filter....unscrew it....put a T style fitting in there....and use that for oil feed

this is the oem setup, and this is the best (other than using a sandwhich plate which will be an issue if you have the oil cooler installed)

for reference the stock msp oil feed line is a -4 AN line, however I do not remember what the oil pressure sensor fitting size is...I think its 1/8 NPT but I'm not positive on that, I will go verify in a minute for you

because of this you will need a T with a male/female connection that mates with the oil pressure sensor and the third connection will need to be -4 AN male
 
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do i have to run the oil cooler? from what i understand and have been told i do not...if that's the case i would rather not for now.

your right on one thing...having a spare engine in front of me would be a lot easier in order to visualize all of this. ha. i appreciate you taking the time to produce this diagram though!
 
haha, I'll go into the garage and take a picture of my block since it is sitting there with that side facing up on the engine stand....

no you don't have to use the oil cooler, but if you choose not to use it then you will need to be sure that you get a different bolt for the banjo fitting that you would use for the water feed....the oem one has an extra barbed fitting for the oil cooler to hook into, just get one that is a bolt instead and you will be fine
 
haha, I'll go into the garage and take a picture of my block since it is sitting there with that side facing up on the engine stand....

no you don't have to use the oil cooler, but if you choose not to use it then you will need to be sure that you get a different bolt for the banjo fitting that you would use for the water feed....the oem one has an extra barbed fitting for the oil cooler to hook into, just get one that is a bolt instead and you will be fine

okay they banjo bolt makes since....
i'd appreciate the pic! i learn quicker visually....i'm going to search for pictures after studying
 
Guys, there's no tapping or fiddling with the knock sensor involved with the oil feed line. The MSP's oil feed line is tee'd into the stock oil pressure sender's location (the same location as the oil pressure sender on an N/A 2.0L engine). The blocks are the exact same. If there is a port for something on the MSP engine then it's also there on an N/A Protege engine but more than likely it's plugged up. The ONLY difference on the block I can think of is the crank girdle. The MSP's is tapped for the oil return. It's a very good location for a return line too.
 
BAH, I am so sorry, I meant to say oil pressure sender

******* knock sensor lol

but no, I'm not saying you tap the block for the oil pressure sender....you add a T fitting between it and the block for the oil feed line, which the oem is -4AN
 
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BAH, I am so sorry, I meant to say oil pressure sender

******* knock sensor lol

but no, I'm not saying you tap the block for the oil pressure sender....you add a T fitting between it and the block for the oil feed line, which the oem is -4AN

with the oil feed line he a fitting where i could run a oil pressure gauge into it. i'll take a pic. i'll need to start reading thehow to for the oil pressure gauge install so i can understand it better and where exactly to tap for the oil feed line.
 
with the oil feed line he a fitting where i could run a oil pressure gauge into it. i'll take a pic. i'll need to start reading thehow to for the oil pressure gauge install so i can understand it better and where exactly to tap for the oil feed line.
There is no tapping for the oil feed line! For the oil pressure gauge the ideal location is where the stock pressure sensor is. Make sure the oil "dead-ends" into the pressure sensor instead of flows past it. Fluid flow past an orifice decreases the pressure so it wouldn't be a good reading.
 
yes, that is correct...you do not tap anything for the oil feed line

but magnum: the stock oil feed line is T-d into the oil pressure sensor on the msp setup, this is how my car is and how all the msps are that I've worked on...I understand what your saying about it causing the reading to be different, however with a T it should be fine because there is a few centimeters of threading for the oil pressure sensor to sit further back...so it shouldn't affect it (right?)


you don't 'tap' it, you put a 'T' fitting between the block and the oil pressure sensor
 
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