Anyone else have their wheel bearings replaced?

I own a 2007 Mazda CX-9 AWD Touring. I love the car. Just replaced the two rear wheel bearings at 100,000 miles. Symptoms = loud road noise from rear of car, louder when turning left. It cost $720 total for both rear. Originally I thought it was a tire problem.

Yeah my 07 FWD which has only 40k miles on it has had 3 of 4 bearings replaced. One front which was under drivetrain warranty (FWD) both backs which cost me $650. Seems the CX-9's near 6000 lbs curb weight, sport suspension and wide lower than most heavy SUV's tire sidewalls is a combination that the wheel bearings don't handle well if beat on at all. I hope I have better luck going forward cause I love the vehicle.
 
As a side note; Look at the A/C Blower Relay and Remote Start issues both need Relays.

Kenbuff1,

Can you elaborate a little on the relays? I just picked up my 2011 CX-9 a month ago and it came with the factory remote start. Thanks so much.
 
07 mazda cx-9. 58k miles. looks like both the rear wheel bearings need replacement. parts and labor running at $480 each side in Chicago N burbs.
 
Yeah my 07 FWD which has only 40k miles on it has had 3 of 4 bearings replaced. One front which was under drivetrain warranty (FWD) both backs which cost me $650. Seems the CX-9's near 6000 lbs curb weight, sport suspension and wide lower than most heavy SUV's tire sidewalls is a combination that the wheel bearings don't handle well if beat on at all. I hope I have better luck going forward cause I love the vehicle.

I turn pretty hard. It is my driving style.
My wheel bearings are still OE after 48K miles. I am counting my blessings.
No. The curb weight is 4550lbs for GT AWD, not 6000lbs.
 
My wheel bearings are still OE after 48K miles.

Same here.

Sometimes blasting over speed bumps and into your driveway with a raised curb, hitting potholes, re-paving sudden height changes, things like that drastically affect the lifespan of things like wheel bearings, strut mounts, ball joints, etc

Not to sing praises to myself, but I notice all my neighbors blast into their raised curb driveways and can audibly hear their suspension making horrible noises as a result. And the park next to my house, every single person who drives through that park blasts over the speed bumps. When I run in that park and I watch some cars go over the really big speed bumps @ the pedestrian crossings, again I can hear their suspension crying out. And it is not like it is just some cars, it is EVERY SINGLE CAR!

Obviously 12k miles is premature, but I really do think that driving habits can really affect that stuff. I get honked at and passed in the park, which is 20mph, and I go 22. People just don't give a crap about their cars.
 
Pretty sure mine are going now. I have 115 KILOMETERS (I'm in Canada) which translates to just over 70,000 miles. Far too early for something like this imo.

In my case, everything seems perfect until I hit about 55-60mph and then the sound starts coming in along with a slight vibration I can feel in the shifter. As has been said, it sounds like the faint roar of offroad tires.

I have 2 sets of tires and with the crappy weather coming in lately I think I'll switch to my snow tires to see if it makes a difference. Easy way to rule out tire/balancing issues anyway.
 
Found that the cause of this bearing issue was the Lock Nut method used to retain everything to the Hub. The Locknut is tighten to the hub, torqued and then a dimple is placed to lock it in place. This method of locking it in place, is with time working itself loose from vibration causing the locknut to back out enough to were the forces on the bearing begin to deteriorate it, hence the repair. Now in most vehicles this is not an issue since they use a cotter pin that goes through and locks the nut from ever backing out. This is definately a design flaw from Mazda and I would bet my salary they are aware of it.
So even after replacing the bearings this will happen shortly again?
 
It is sad to hear of these issues, I have been a Honda person for 20 plus years and never had any issues with my vehicles with over 150K miles on them, other than normal wear issues ie: tires, brakes, oil changes and timing belts at 90K per Honda. But I just had to deal with my front right wheel bearing at 120K miles, and while I was doing my repairs, I investigated the other wheels. Found that the cause of this bearing issue was the Lock Nut method used to retain everything to the Hub. The Locknut is tighten to the hub, torqued and then a dimple is placed to lock it in place. This method of locking it in place, is with time working itself loose from vibration causing the locknut to back out enough to were the forces on the bearing begin to deteriorate it, hence the repair. Now in most vehicles this is not an issue since they use a cotter pin that goes through and locks the nut from ever backing out. This is definately a design flaw from Mazda and I would bet my salary they are aware of it. My back ground, I use to be an ASE Master Tech in the automotive industry and now I am an Engineer, so with that said, when I took the vehicle for repair I was involved a little more than your common owner.

As a side note; Look at the A/C Blower Relay and Remote Start issues both need Relays.

More reasons to torque the nuts regularly.... guess that's why I don't have this issue, 'cause I do that often on weekend maintenance.
 
I'll have to start doing this too. Although I will have to get the right torque setting from the service manual. I would guess over tightening could be worse than being loose.
 
Not sure how one can do this (re-torque) properly without replacing the locknut and re-staking. Also, the required torque is 173.5-202.3 ft-lb. I do not own a torque wrench with that capability.
 
I would also be interested to see out of all the people on here who have needed wheel bearings, how many take their car to chain tire stores, wal-mart, etc. Those places sometimes get greedy with their impact guns and torque the lug nuts so tight that you can't hardly get them off with a torque wrench and your foot. I would put money on that being a cause of some wheel bearing failures as well.
 
I just replaced the tires at Wheel Works a few weeks ago.
I found that the nuts were under torqued. I set my torque wrench at 90ft-lb, and I was able to turn up to 90 degree on almost half of them...
Did they set to 70ft-lb?
Anyway, I always re-torque after a day or two to be safe.
 
At 114k, getting the third wheel bearing replaced. Does this seem expensive for one rear wheel bearing parts and labor, $876?
 

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they are charging you about 600 for labor. Even though it says diagnostics. It shouldn't take no more than 1 hour diag time. What is their hourly rate. You take their hourly rate and add the cost of the bearing which goes for about 150 on rock auto for the timken with delivery and probably tax and subtract from the total cost. I would say buy the bearing from rock auto and have an indy install for you would be much cheaper. Then have mazda do the rest of the work. I say this because i think that they are the only ones that have the diff mounts in stock.
 
Yep, would be cheaper to order the bearing myself and take it to a shop, but I do need it done today as I don't have much flexibility in my schedule and am willing to pay for the convenience. Repairs at the dealer are usually more expensive, but thought these seem excessively so.
 

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