Weapon-R Engine Torque Damper

TheDoc

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2008 Mazda Speed 3
Installed my ETD from Protege Garage this weekend and wow.

Last weekend I got to ride along in a speed3 with a TRZ rear mount and a custom side mount. The ride was firm but the vibrations were harsh and the guy wound up spending quite a good bit of money on the side mount, alone.

The torque damper from Weapon-R is my first mount upgrade and I can't even begin to explain what an outstanding addition this was. Just driving around town the car feels much more firm and planted. There are no noticable vibrations. There is some resonating sound in the cab, but they're all very ... satisfying sounds (You can really hear the engine screaming in the upper part of the power band).

Clutch engagement is unbelievably smooth and easy, and the biggest thing I was looking for, this has completely resolved... the grind from 2 to 3. I went around for about 2 hours last night just slamming it from second to third and not once did it grind. Everything at low RPM is much, much, more predictable and the feel is amazing.

Dropping the clutch at around 2500- the wheels chirp and the car takes off. No axle-hop, no drama. Even the first to second shift is more precise. The one difference I didn't really expect was through turns. I can accelerate through turns and the understeer is nowhere near what it was. The car is just so much more planted. I've spent the past day and half just having a blast pushing through corners.

Weapon-R was marketing this as a direct bolt-on and it wasn't. The bracket the bolts onto the block can't get on there as it is due to a screw in the timing cover. Some simple modification to the bracket (which will be done before PG starts shipping them out, I believe) and relocating an A/C line the fitment is almost perfect. You can see in the picture, a power steering line that is making some contact, but I'm planning on making the bracket an inch or three taller... or relocating the line and all will be perfect.

I only plan to get a rear mount now out of precaution, but as far as I'm concerned, this makes an aftermarket side mount unnecessary. It is ridiculously effective for the price. Anyway, I don't know that anyone else has one of these on their cars right now... just figured I'd share. And thanks to PG for working with me to get this on.

-Doc
 

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Nice info!

As for the ETD you got from PG, you had to modify the bracket?

I placed an order for this for my MS3, and I've got the TRZ Dog Bone MM installed already. I hope I don't have to modify something that is supposed to be a direct bolt on.
 
Ken took what we had to do with mine as a reference and is modifying the rest of them accordingly. When you recieve it, it should be a perfect fit.
 
Nice, thanks Doc! By the way, that damper looks sick in that engine bay... got another angle?
 
Nice, Looks like a pretty easy install. I couldn't get it into 3rd this weekend while showing the pick up the car has to my friend. I'm trying to talk him into getting a speed3 instead of a caliber srt4. Looks like this part could solve that problem
 
Saw that piece awhile back, but didn't get it cuz you had to mod the bracket, glad you like it...but I'm happy with my 30 dollar Corksport MMI. works well and no real vibs at all.
 
thanks to TheDoc for being our guinea pig. for everyone who orders one who has a mazdaspeed3, i will be modifying the brackets accordingly before they ship out. the AC and PS lines as shown have to be disconnected and moved during the install. as you can see the one bracket is moved to the back part of the line/engine to allow clearance of the damper.
 
we did not remove the line. just disconnected the bracket and moved the line aside. no way would i ever remove such a line. i don't have HVAC certifications and rather like not getting potentially poisoned :D
 
so how hard is the install?

just jack up the engine
unbolt the brackets for the a/c lines
unbolt the two side MM bolts
unbolt the three strut tower bolts
slap everything together

did i miss anything? any special tools? or will a standard socket/wrench set work?
 
you pretty much nailed it. you will need a 14mm, 10mm, 17mm deep well, a few extensions, and a hex key socket or wrench for the bolts on the damper itself. otherwise pretty standard stuff.

i recommend mighty arm strength, air tools, giant breaker bar or an act of (insert chosen diety here) to break loose the mount bolts on the engine.
 
oh okay, my bad.
Just the way the previous post was.. "...must be disconnected and moved" I got confused. Good to know that they don't need to be. That would be such a pain in the ass.
Thank you for clearing that up Ken.
 
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