Make eBrake stop turning off lights...

B

Bagman

I am up here in Canada and we have DRL requirements, though I am not sure if that matters for what I want to know. I have read in the manual that it is normal for the headlights/foglights to go off when the hand-brake is engaged. This is ridiculous. I rather not have to turn the stalk to full on (all lights and cluster lit) to get the headlights and fogs to stay on when the hand-brake is on.

Is there a way to rewire it so that when the handbrake is on the lights will NOT go off?

I did my best at searching.. no luck. :(
 
ARFF said:
why do want to do that?
Click to expand...

I use my handbrake all the time. For example, waiting at a redlight I have my foot OFF the brake-pedal and either in 1st or neutral with the handbrake on two or 1 - 3 clicks so the car doesn't roll. This more than anything else applies most to hill-starts so that I can simultaneously go forward while releasing hand-brake and move the car forward without putting strain on the transmission from the car rolling back initially.

Trust me, I know what I am doing. I have was tought by my father who has taken numerous vehicles to the 400 000km mark with original transmissions/clutches.

Anyways.. Think how silly it is that the headlights go off when you have the hand-brake up. Even just idle in a parking lot waiting for someone..
 
^ if you take the wire off the handbrake the DRL will be off all the time, and your warning light will stay on all the time.

Why don't you just use the foot brake at normal flat stops, you know, like everyone else. Problem solved. Otherwise just start tearing apart your center console and seeing how it works.
 
bucksatan said:
^ if you take the wire off the handbrake the DRL will be off all the time, and your warning light will stay on all the time.

Why don't you just use the foot brake at normal flat stops, you know, like everyone else. Problem solved. Otherwise just start tearing apart your center console and seeing how it works.
Click to expand...

Agree with you on the first part about the "!" being on all the time. Don't want that. I could use the brake-pedal at a stop, but I don't believe it is the best method for about 90% of the time. I drive a 5spd vehicle so I'll refrain from automatic methods. lol.

Reading further.. apparently it is a feature that cannot be disabled, though if I disable the entire DRL system that behaviour should stop.
 
Driving school 101: Using your friction point is the proper way to use the clutch in combination with the brake in a manual and is what driving instructors will teach you and is what any good driver will do. At that point there is no rolling forwards or backwards.

Gearing down and using the normal brake is not an automatic method. Their brakes that's their purpose. You simply watch the lights change, ease out on the clutch to the friction point, move foot from brake to gas, then release the clutch all the way out to accelerate (no rolling required).

A park brake/e brake is just that, a safety brake and should only be used in case of emergency and when parking but checked regularly to make sure it's not ceased. People who use this method are generally those who have not masterd the art of the clutch of their automobile and are afraid of the jerk you get when they don't learn to use the clutch properly (aka) riding the clutch. If you wish to use it everyday 24-7 go ahead, but it is not absolute and not necessary.

Also, disabling the DRL is illegal and will not pass inspection in Canada.

And lastly, just a friendly reminder from an old foggie. I know this is your first few posts, but this is a place of learning, we give and gain from other members so the *I know this I know that* attitude is maybe not the best approach especially straight outta the gate.
 
the switch gets triggered when the brake it pulled right? so make it so it dosnt... problem solved... ive never looked at the switch but its common sense
 
^ If you disconnect the wire it will leave the daytime running lights off, and the warning light on. I would guess that as you lift up the brake handle it breaks the circuit, as the sensor wire is attached to the handle. So if you really wanted to I'm sure it would too hard to re wire it. But then you would never know if you accidently left the parking brake up a notch or 2 by accident, or if it got knocked up a bit while you were driving. Warning lights are there for a reason right.

I too drive a manual. On a steep hill I may use the parking brake, but around town on flat or fairly flat ground I never use the parking brake. I didn't learn that way, and now with this car I don't want to be the jackass flashing my lights at everyone.
 
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Purrfectangel said:
Driving school 101: Using your friction point is the proper way to use the clutch in combination with the brake in a manual and is what driving instructors will teach you and is what any good driver will do. At that point there is no rolling forwards or backwards.

Gearing down and using the normal brake is not an automatic method. Their brakes that's their purpose. You simply watch the lights change, ease out on the clutch to the friction point, move foot from brake to gas, then release the clutch all the way out to accelerate (no rolling required).

A park brake/e brake is just that, a safety brake and should only be used in case of emergency and when parking but checked regularly to make sure it's not ceased. People who use this method are generally those who have not masterd the art of the clutch of their automobile and are afraid of the jerk you get when they don't learn to use the clutch properly (aka) riding the clutch. If you wish to use it everyday 24-7 go ahead, but it is not absolute and not necessary.

Also, disabling the DRL is illegal and will not pass inspection in Canada.

And lastly, just a friendly reminder from an old foggie. I know this is your first few posts, but this is a place of learning, we give and gain from other members so the *I know this I know that* attitude is maybe not the best approach especially straight outta the gate.
Click to expand...


Please don't patronize me with this junk. I am not a moron or a young little child, or even 'new' to how online forums work. Take the pickle out of your arse. Forums 101: You do not know who is on the other side. Indeed, every manual driver has their own little methods and I merely responded to the person that asked why I wanted to do what I wanted. I do not need driving lessons from an "old foggie".

Why would I want my vehicle to pass inspection? I just bought it! If on a hill, your method puts a lot of un-due strain on the transmission. Has your practiced methods of driving stick allowed you to get a vehicle to at least 300 000kms on the original clutch? Proof is in the pudding, I think my methods are 'correct'.
 
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Purrfectangel said:
Driving school 101: Using your friction point is the proper way to use the clutch in combination with the brake in a manual and is what driving instructors will teach you and is what any good driver will do. At that point there is no rolling forwards or backwards.

Gearing down and using the normal brake is not an automatic method. Their brakes that's their purpose. You simply watch the lights change, ease out on the clutch to the friction point, move foot from brake to gas, then release the clutch all the way out to accelerate (no rolling required).

A park brake/e brake is just that, a safety brake and should only be used in case of emergency and when parking but checked regularly to make sure it's not ceased. People who use this method are generally those who have not masterd the art of the clutch of their automobile and are afraid of the jerk you get when they don't learn to use the clutch properly (aka) riding the clutch. If you wish to use it everyday 24-7 go ahead, but it is not absolute and not necessary.

Also, disabling the DRL is illegal and will not pass inspection in Canada.

And lastly, just a friendly reminder from an old foggie. I know this is your first few posts, but this is a place of learning, we give and gain from other members so the *I know this I know that* attitude is maybe not the best approach especially straight outta the gate.
Click to expand...

Do you like burning out clutches? Sitting in the friction point constantly wears on the clutch surface. When the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged there is no wear. But when your foot isn't fully on or off the pedal there is a good chance you are burning away material.

Also, depending on where you are in Canada, you don't need to DRLs to pass a safety. For example, in Ontario you can't have any burned out bulbs, but as long as your headlights and high beams turn on you should pass safety. You can also repair holes in the body with tape, as the act reads that there must be no holes from the body to the interior.
 
Bagman said:
Please don't patronize me with this junk. I am not a moron or a young little child, or even 'new' to how online forums work. Take the pickle out of your arse. Forums 101: You do not know who is on the other side. Indeed, every manual driver has their own little methods and I merely responded to the person that asked why I wanted to do what I wanted. I do not need driving lessons from an "old foggie".

Why would I want my vehicle to pass inspection? I just bought it! If on a hill, your method puts a lot of un-due strain on the transmission. Has your practiced methods of driving stick allowed you to get a vehicle to at least 300 000kms on the original clutch? Proof is in the pudding, I think my methods are 'correct'.
Click to expand...

Pickle out of my arse...Oh very classy...however, point proved! Just saying you shouldn't be so sharp especially when looking for help. People are less apt to help people who come across that way, that's all.

As for who's on the other side..by that statement, I'd say someone who knows me or a disgruntled former member who's been banned and is back under another name...whatever the case may be, it doesn't matter because I could care less.

As for the DRL, I never said you needed your car inspected but rather that I know you need them to pass inspection, at least in NB. I had forgotten about how leaniant the other provinces were. Gotta love the gov't.

Anywho, differences in driving and whatnot aside, I hope you found the answer you were looking for. Enjoy the new to you car and happy modding.
 
Purrfectangel said:
Driving school 101: Using your friction point is the proper way to use the clutch in combination with the brake in a manual and is what driving instructors will teach you and is what any good driver will do. At that point there is no rolling forwards or backwards.

Gearing down and using the normal brake is not an automatic method. Their brakes that's their purpose. You simply watch the lights change, ease out on the clutch to the friction point, move foot from brake to gas, then release the clutch all the way out to accelerate (no rolling required).

A park brake/e brake is just that, a safety brake and should only be used in case of emergency and when parking but checked regularly to make sure it's not ceased. People who use this method are generally those who have not masterd the art of the clutch of their automobile and are afraid of the jerk you get when they don't learn to use the clutch properly (aka) riding the clutch. If you wish to use it everyday 24-7 go ahead, but it is not absolute and not necessary.

Also, disabling the DRL is illegal and will not pass inspection in Canada.

And lastly, just a friendly reminder from an old foggie. I know this is your first few posts, but this is a place of learning, we give and gain from other members so the *I know this I know that* attitude is maybe not the best approach especially straight outta the gate.
Click to expand...
you go ahead and try this friction point bulls*** on a steep hill... you're either going to stall or roll backwards... the only way to stop that from happening? give it more RPMs so that it won't happen... unless you were a freak of nature and happened to have 3 legs, there's 3 pedals in any manual car, and how suppose you're going to hold down the brake while clutching out AND giving it gas? you don't really... that's why you use the hand brake, duh!

he knows wtf he's doing and talking about and as far as I'm concerned, you know nothing compared to him about manual driving... what he's been doing IS the proper method taught to new drivers in europe and asia as you WILL fail a license test if your car EVER rolls backwards... using the hand brake in lieu of the brake pedal just as you're ready to take off from the light to prevent your car from rolling backwards IS the proper driving method... a method which nobody knows or cares about in north america, the land of bad driving


the only simple solution I know of to retain DRLs and to keep the ebrake from turning them off/on is to disable the e-brake warning light function... disconnecting the wire that goes to the reed switch where the hand brake handle is should do that since having the handle up grounds the circuit and causes the light to come on... removing the ground path will just stop the e-brake light from ever coming on again and also have DRLs always on
 
theres a spring that keeps the circuit incomplete with the ebrake is released. unscrew the wire connected to it and tape it off. problem solved. no more lights on/off
 
WOW! There's some very sensitive people here...who the hell cares how person A drives their car compared to person B. Too much posturing and chest thumping
 
ARFF said:
WOW! There's some very sensitive people here...who the hell cares how person A drives their car compared to person B. Too much posturing and chest thumping
Click to expand...

ARE YOU IMPLYING IM AN IDIOT? GO TO HELL [/sarcasm] (rofl)

On a more serious note, look into that spring, I think I remember reading something about that somewhere, I just can't remember where right now.
 
Its pretty Simple...The E-Brake either Closes a Circuit..Or opens it when engaged.....
If it opens it..you need to tie the two wires together somehow so it thinks its off all the time....

If It closes it when engaged...Like others have said already...Simply remove the wire from whatever triggers it....

Problem Solved.

And yeah...Quit being an ass and I bet you will get more help in the future.
 
ARE YOU IMPLYING IM AN IDIOT? GO TO HELL [/sarcasm]

On a more serious note, look into that spring, I think I remember reading something about that somewhere, I just can't remember where right now.

LOL...of course not! My post was aimed at the OP....if u need help with something, don't be an ass when people try to give it.
 
Well, cheers to those that actually just did their best to answer just my original question. It certainly is worth a chuckle at how fast such a simple thing can spiral into oblivious hell. Truely, if you don't have anything positive to contribute to the thread, don't bother posting. I asked a question... answer it, but please don't be the passer-by that decides they'd like to get all uppety and take offense to something they just happen to catch a snip-it of by jumping into a thread. It's actually rather rude.
 
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