RF Paddle Shifters for Mazda CX-7
This post describes how to modify the CX-7 to add wireless shifting from the steering wheel.
Link to forum in CX-7 Engine, Transmission & Drivetrain
Overview:
The Mazda CX-7 has a manual shift option using shift-by-wire, where the shift lever can be used to sequentially upshift or downshift to any allowable forward gear. I wished to add shift levers (or paddles) onto the steering wheel, while still retaining the use of the shift lever at the same time.
There are two typical placement of paddle shifters, directly on the steering wheel, or on the steering column. After trying a couple of vehicles with this feature, I decided that shifters on the steering wheel was the most useful. However since the wheel turns, it makes connecting from the car to the shifters a bit difficult. I decided the easier option was to use a pair of RF transmitters and wirelessly send the signal from the steering wheel to the shift lever.
I removed the shift console (instructions can be found elsewhere on this forum) basically by removing the side trim pieces, unscrewing the shift lever, unscrewing the shift gate panel and popping it out. Youll have to unplug the 12V power outlet, and seat heater switches (if applicable).
The shift lever has two mechanical cables, one deals with locking the lever unless the brake lever is pressed with the key turned, and the other selects park, reverse, etc.
When the shift lever is in the Drive position, it can be pushed sideways into the Manual position. The dashboard light shows an M, and when pushing forwards or - the car goes to a lower gear, and pulling backwards or + the car goes to a higher gear. The current gear is also shown on the dashboard.
There is a 6-wire electrical connector for the manual shift feature. Two green wires go to a small lamp to light the shift gate. The Red wire goes to the - or downshift switch, the Blue wire goes to the + or upshift switch, the Yellow wire goes to the Drive/Manual switch, and the White wire is the Ground/Return wire. (I dont believe the White wire is actually Ground, so I did not treat it as such).
The following describes the function of the wires:
Key out or OFF, or key to first position:
Red=0V, Blue=0V, Yellow=0V
Key to ON, Shift Lever in Park, Reverse, Neutral or Drive:
Red=12V, Blue=12V, Yellow=12V
Key to ON, Shift Lever in Manual, Lever at middle position:
Red=12V, Blue=12V, Yellow=0V (current flows from yellow to white)
Key to ON, Shift Lever in Manual, Lever pushed forwards to - position:
Red=0V, Blue=12V, Yellow=0V (current flows from red to white, and yellow to white)
Key to ON, Shift Lever in Manual, Lever pulled backwards to + position:
Red=12V, Blue=0V, Yellow=0V (current flows from blue to white, and yellow to white)
Its the same if the car is running or not.
I did not attempt to see what happens if both Red and Blue are activated at the same time, I do not think the ECU would be happy.
So it seems that connecting Yellow to White will tell the car to go to Manual Mode,
and from there: connecting Red to White shifts down, and connecting Blue to White shifts up.
Next I cut the four wires: Yellow, White, Red, and Blue about four inches after they come out of the 6-wire connector, and soldered extensions of about 12 to each. To the end of this I attached a 4-wire female quick connector.
On the other end of the four cut wires (the wires that go to the shift lever) I soldered extensions and attached a 4-wire male quick connector.
When the two 4-wire female/male connectors are attached, the car functions normally.
To get 12V power, I spliced a wire onto the seat heater 12V supply that was conveniently beside the shift lever (Fat pink wire, though cant remember which one, as there are two in each seat heater switch pair) You could also use the 12V wire from the 12V Power Connector. I also spliced a wire onto the Ground on the seat heater connector (one of the Black wires), you could also use the ground from the 12V Power Connector.
Note: TEST these wires yourself using a multimeter to be sure youre using the right 12V and Ground. 12V should be only on when the key is in the ON position. The Ground should have zero resistance to any other grounded metal part of the car.
To the 12V and Ground wires, I attached a 2-wire female quick connector, and connected the other side of the 2-wire male quick connector to two 18 long wires.
I attached an ON/OFF switch to the front of the removed shift lever console, so it is below the radio/heater. It cannot easily be seen here, and its quite easy to attach to the removed panel. I wanted a switch to turn off the modifications in case of radio interference, or if someone unfamiliar is going to be using the car.
To the ON/OFF switch, I attached another 2-wire male quick connector, and connected the 2-wire female quick connector to two more wires
Note: As there are now two pairs of 2-wire quick connectors, I modified one so it can only connect to its own pair. You may want to take some similar precaution in your connections so you will prevent attaching the wrong connectors together.
The end result should be a set of connections that only attach together in one way, and can be easily returned to stock condition (although with some extra connectors in the middle).
This post describes how to modify the CX-7 to add wireless shifting from the steering wheel.
Link to forum in CX-7 Engine, Transmission & Drivetrain
Overview:
The Mazda CX-7 has a manual shift option using shift-by-wire, where the shift lever can be used to sequentially upshift or downshift to any allowable forward gear. I wished to add shift levers (or paddles) onto the steering wheel, while still retaining the use of the shift lever at the same time.
There are two typical placement of paddle shifters, directly on the steering wheel, or on the steering column. After trying a couple of vehicles with this feature, I decided that shifters on the steering wheel was the most useful. However since the wheel turns, it makes connecting from the car to the shifters a bit difficult. I decided the easier option was to use a pair of RF transmitters and wirelessly send the signal from the steering wheel to the shift lever.
I removed the shift console (instructions can be found elsewhere on this forum) basically by removing the side trim pieces, unscrewing the shift lever, unscrewing the shift gate panel and popping it out. Youll have to unplug the 12V power outlet, and seat heater switches (if applicable).
The shift lever has two mechanical cables, one deals with locking the lever unless the brake lever is pressed with the key turned, and the other selects park, reverse, etc.
When the shift lever is in the Drive position, it can be pushed sideways into the Manual position. The dashboard light shows an M, and when pushing forwards or - the car goes to a lower gear, and pulling backwards or + the car goes to a higher gear. The current gear is also shown on the dashboard.
There is a 6-wire electrical connector for the manual shift feature. Two green wires go to a small lamp to light the shift gate. The Red wire goes to the - or downshift switch, the Blue wire goes to the + or upshift switch, the Yellow wire goes to the Drive/Manual switch, and the White wire is the Ground/Return wire. (I dont believe the White wire is actually Ground, so I did not treat it as such).
The following describes the function of the wires:
Key out or OFF, or key to first position:
Red=0V, Blue=0V, Yellow=0V
Key to ON, Shift Lever in Park, Reverse, Neutral or Drive:
Red=12V, Blue=12V, Yellow=12V
Key to ON, Shift Lever in Manual, Lever at middle position:
Red=12V, Blue=12V, Yellow=0V (current flows from yellow to white)
Key to ON, Shift Lever in Manual, Lever pushed forwards to - position:
Red=0V, Blue=12V, Yellow=0V (current flows from red to white, and yellow to white)
Key to ON, Shift Lever in Manual, Lever pulled backwards to + position:
Red=12V, Blue=0V, Yellow=0V (current flows from blue to white, and yellow to white)
Its the same if the car is running or not.
I did not attempt to see what happens if both Red and Blue are activated at the same time, I do not think the ECU would be happy.
So it seems that connecting Yellow to White will tell the car to go to Manual Mode,
and from there: connecting Red to White shifts down, and connecting Blue to White shifts up.
Next I cut the four wires: Yellow, White, Red, and Blue about four inches after they come out of the 6-wire connector, and soldered extensions of about 12 to each. To the end of this I attached a 4-wire female quick connector.
On the other end of the four cut wires (the wires that go to the shift lever) I soldered extensions and attached a 4-wire male quick connector.
When the two 4-wire female/male connectors are attached, the car functions normally.
To get 12V power, I spliced a wire onto the seat heater 12V supply that was conveniently beside the shift lever (Fat pink wire, though cant remember which one, as there are two in each seat heater switch pair) You could also use the 12V wire from the 12V Power Connector. I also spliced a wire onto the Ground on the seat heater connector (one of the Black wires), you could also use the ground from the 12V Power Connector.
Note: TEST these wires yourself using a multimeter to be sure youre using the right 12V and Ground. 12V should be only on when the key is in the ON position. The Ground should have zero resistance to any other grounded metal part of the car.
To the 12V and Ground wires, I attached a 2-wire female quick connector, and connected the other side of the 2-wire male quick connector to two 18 long wires.
I attached an ON/OFF switch to the front of the removed shift lever console, so it is below the radio/heater. It cannot easily be seen here, and its quite easy to attach to the removed panel. I wanted a switch to turn off the modifications in case of radio interference, or if someone unfamiliar is going to be using the car.
To the ON/OFF switch, I attached another 2-wire male quick connector, and connected the 2-wire female quick connector to two more wires
Note: As there are now two pairs of 2-wire quick connectors, I modified one so it can only connect to its own pair. You may want to take some similar precaution in your connections so you will prevent attaching the wrong connectors together.
The end result should be a set of connections that only attach together in one way, and can be easily returned to stock condition (although with some extra connectors in the middle).
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