FS-DE Oil System

got a question..

would sending you guys a used oil pump be pointless?? or do they not really wear out? i have a couple used pumps but i'm just not sure if what you guys do will extend the life, or basically start its new life...
 
got a question..

would sending you guys a used oil pump be pointless?? or do they not really wear out? i have a couple used pumps but i'm just not sure if what you guys do will extend the life, or basically start its new life...

Most used oil pumps can be serviced. (Altough, it really depends upon how they were used.) The vast majority of used pumps that have been sent in have worked just fine. With the service, they usually return to somewhere in the middle of the OE spec range.

No matter if the pump is new or used, when we receive it, it will be opened up and initial specs will be taken. Those specs will be PM'd to you so that you can determine if you want to have the service done for that specific pump.

And don't forget about the current FREE HAT OFFER with every new order in the next week!
 
So bottom line, how much is the price for the oil pump modification if I send one to you and what is the average turn around time?

And this will for sure fix the oil feeding issues the FS-DE's have?
 
So bottom line, how much is the price for the oil pump modification if I send one to you and what is the average turn around time?

And this will for sure fix the oil feeding issues the FS-DE's have?


The service to bring an oil pump up to best specs is $100. The average turn around time is three weeks.

The oil pump itself helps but without switching the pressure releif valve to external (and purchasing an external pressure releif valve from us) and installing the system as described in this thread you will not get the full benefit of the system that has been run by several forum members here that can attest for its results.
 
How much extra to switch it to the external pressure relief valve? Does this do anything to make the car less reliable or anything? In other words, could I safely daily drive on this?
 
How much extra to switch it to the external pressure relief valve? Does this do anything to make the car less reliable or anything? In other words, could I safely daily drive on this?


By going to external PRV you actually make it much more reliable. The conversion to your pump is free with the purchase of the external PRV which is $130. You will need to source the adapter plates and hoses for this install. The diagram and discussion is in this thread. The parts can be sourced from many places. Protege garage has a nice kit, ebay, jegs and summit have parts as well.
 
Again if it helps, there are some pics of the system in #268 of this thread and a drawing of the layout in #284
 
Ok so in addition to the pump done by you we would also need an oil filter relocation kit and a girdle on the block if we don't wanna weld anything onto our oil pan?

Also, you should be able to remove the oil pump without removing the motor if we can remove the pan, correct?
 
Ok so in addition to the pump done by you we would also need an oil filter relocation kit and a girdle on the block if we don't wanna weld anything onto our oil pan?

Also, you should be able to remove the oil pump without removing the motor if we can remove the pan, correct?

That sounds like it...pump service($100) + external PRV ($130) + average return shipping ($15) = $245

You source oil filter relocation kit and girdle with bung welded on for return line from the external PRV

You should be able to remove the oil pump without removing the motor. It is a bit of a squeeze but possible.
 
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That sounds like it...pump service($100) + external PRV ($130) + average return shipping ($15) = $235

You source oil filter relocation kit and girdle with bung welded on for return line from the external PRV

You should be able to remove the oil pump without removing the motor. It is a bit of a squeeze but possible.

Tom, You should have a look at your math there! Unless you're using some sort of far out there algebra to do your calculations...(thought)
 
Ok so in addition to the pump done by you we would also need an oil filter relocation kit and a girdle on the block if we don't wanna weld anything onto our oil pan?

Also, you should be able to remove the oil pump without removing the motor if we can remove the pan, correct?

You *can* remove the pump with the engine still in the car, but it's a good 2 day job if you do it that way. You have to re-time the engine once you install the new pump, and that alone is a tedious task espesially in the car. For me, I have no emmissions crap or anything, I can have my engine and tranny out within 90 minutes. It really doesn't take as long as you'd think. SO yes, you can do it with the engine in the car, but you need to remove the transmission anyway to get the windage tray off, to get the oil pump to make a good seal, as well as to tap the windage tray.

The oil pump is really "buried" in there, I wouldn't suggest attempting it with the engine still in the car.
 
Hey, Tom how about those specs on the FSDE motor you guys are running?? I know you mentioned something about larger bearing, etc.
 
Hey, Tom how about those specs on the FSDE motor you guys are running?? I know you mentioned something about larger bearing, etc.


Yes, we have found a true race bearing for the rods that we use in our motors. Requires recutting the rods for the bearing notch on the opposite side but otherwise have been great! I can supply for anyone interested but are pricey. I'll have to check current price.

What other specs are you interested in??
 
How long do the bearings last for?


I only have our race motors to go by but we have been "beating" on the same set of bearings for two seasons now.

I'm getting ready to pull the bottom end of the motor and check them soon. I can let you know how they look but I know that the motor was running strong with good oil pressure at the end of this season.
 
Cool I might be interested in a set of these.


Let me know when you are ready. Also, if you order forged rods let me know and I can let you know what to order so they can cut the needed slot in the cap for both OE and these race bearings
 
Let me know when you are ready. Also, if you order forged rods let me know and I can let you know what to order so they can cut the needed slot in the cap for both OE and these race bearings

the needed slot int he bearings I assume or the rods?

Edit: just to give a general idea what is the cost of those bearings?
 
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