spark knock WTF ????

tru-boost

Member
:
2007 sunlight silver speed3
hey guys, i got my DH and have been playing around with it. i did some logs monitoring command A/F, actual A/F, RPM, and knock retard. i was impressed with my A/F. the car follows the command at all times....i mean perfectly !! but the knock has me worried. 3rd gar by itself looks OK. 4the by itself is slightly higher but still OK i think.
the run through 3rd and 4th is when it gets scary !
in 4th gear the knock retard jumps up to 4.9 ! the car felt good and the rest of the parameters look good so,....... WTF ??? i cant figure ut how to make the logs show up nice and big for some reason, but here you go.

third gear only
3rd.jpg

4th gear only
4th.jpg

3-4
3and4.jpg
 
I noticed the same this weekend using the latest build. I actually saw a 6 on mine in one run, but most were 3.2/3.5. I have never noticed more than a 1.0 before.

My AFR's run perfect as well and look as almost a solid line following the Commanded. I don't see how you can have such high Knock with such good AFR's.

Thus - I'm not too worried at this point and seeing others see high Knock makes me feel better as well.

Are you running the 1step colder plugs? Thats the only change I have made other than a Forge BPV this weekend. I'm actually thinking about pulling out the 1step colder and seeing if it makes any differance.
 
Well, Im not sure how this relates cross manufacturers, but here goes

in audis, you wanted a little bit of ignition retardation for a few reasons.

A) if your pulling timing, you know your running the most amount of timing for the boost and fuel you have.

B) it was abnormal to see straight 000's across the 4 cylinders for "correction factor" (ignition retard)

in audis, it was generally considered ok if it was from 6-9* of retardation, anything more and you needed to start digging around..

what gas you running with 20psi? I also cant read your A/F scale on this monitor...

my car was knocking on cheap 93oct gas and stock boost on the dyno... although dynos do put more load on the car. it doesnt knock on the street (that ive noticed)
 
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it is 93oct from BP...thats the only place i get gas from.
yes i do have the colder NGK's too. it seems most others usually stay under 2 degrees of retard, so i dont know ......?
 
While obviously not the same tuning, my CX7 pretty much has .5-2.0 knock retard in 4th gear+ The lower gears are fine, even under WOT.

I use Chevron or Shell 91 probably 50% of the time with the other generic brand 91.
 
I will pull my 1step colder plugs this weekend and see if that is the reason. It might be the new build of the DH though. It is Beta.
 
I have noticed any where from 0.1 to 3.0 knock. That is with the stock plugs, BEGi cold air box, and a Forge BPV.

This a n00bish question, but how much knock is to much knock?
 
Ok i am glad to see this thread!! I noticed this the other day as well when I set my knock alert on the DH to <=1.0.... What’s interesting here is that when I go WOT or am in boost I never get above a 1.0 but if I keep the car in vac in 4th and ease it up to about 4500 rpm I get a crazy knock alert up to 5.5...... I have the stock plugs.


I wasn’t sure that this was bad at all and i am searching around to maybe find out what exactly is going on here.

check out the pdf after the jump !!!!!



http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/counterp_v4_i4_2000.pdf

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h38.pdf



In an OBD-II system with electronic spark
timing, the PCM continually reads a number
of input signals, including base timing,
throttle position, intake manifold pressure,
transmission gear and vehicle speed. Some
PCMs will even read a rapid change in throttle
position, indicating the driver wants to
accelerate quickly. Based on its programming,
the PCM advances spark to a preset level for
different conditions. The preset spark advance
is typically close to the knock point because
the system relies on the knock sensor as a
warning device.
Most knock sensors send a base or “no
knocking” reference signal to the PCM.
If knocking occurs, the sensor detects the
increased vibration and increases its signal
to the PCM. The PCM then slightly retards
timing until the sensor signal returns to the
reference level.
If a temporary condition caused the knock,
the PCM will set spark timing to the
programmed advance. If the knock returns,
the PCM will cycle spark timing, advancing
timing until knock is encountered and then
retarding timing until the knock is gone.


this was interesting to me

A too lean condition, such as a PCM, fuel
system or a vacuum leak problem, can also
cause knocking.

Tru-boost did you happen to DL spark advance to see if the computer was pulling timing due to the onset of the knock?
 
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I noticed the same this weekend using the latest build. I actually saw a 6 on mine in one run, but most were 3.2/3.5. I have never noticed more than a 1.0 before.

My AFR's run perfect as well and look as almost a solid line following the Commanded. I don't see how you can have such high Knock with such good AFR's.

ok you must have it set up wrong.....just like i did !!
when you set up the command and actual AFR you should not use the "command AFR pid from the mazda specific section. it will give you the wrong reading. to get the proper AFR command reading you must use the PID for it in the regular "fuel" settings. i changed mine and found that most of the time my car is calling for 10.5:1 and i am actually at 11.5:1 . still plenty safe but for sure not what the car is asking for !
 
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I think the stock knock sensor is reacting to the injectors. I removed the foam under my intake solely for looks and my car started throwing 4.5, 6.0, 7.0... usually when I would let off of the throttle while cruising. I could even rev it in neutral and make the knock sensor go off. There is no way to cause knock with no load on this motor and I only started seeing this after removing the foam. It looked better though lol...
 
I think the stock knock sensor is reacting to the injectors. I removed the foam under my intake solely for looks and my car started throwing 4.5, 6.0, 7.0... usually when I would let off of the throttle while cruising. I could even rev it in neutral and make the knock sensor go off. There is no way to cause knock with no load on this motor and I only started seeing this after removing the foam. It looked better though lol...

Have you see that the car pulls timing due to the knock and can we find out how much is too much ?
 
I think the knock sensor is over sensitive. I've occasionally seen "knock" when maintaining a low, constant speed. Either our ECU is a POS or it's a false reading.
 
I think the knock sensor is over sensitive. I've occasionally seen "knock" when maintaining a low, constant speed. Either our ECU is a POS or it's a false reading.

If the ecu is pulling timing due to injector noise or whatever.Wouldnt that be affecting performance? I plan to do a timing/knock/AFR/RPM on my way home tonight and maybe see whats happening.
 
Tru-boost did you happen to DL spark advance to see if the computer was pulling timing due to the onset of the knock?

From what Ken over at th dashhawk forums said the knock retard could just be a minus from spark advance.

So the spark advance shows total advance, and the knock retard is what the ECU is subtracting from advance. Knock retard won't make spark advance decrease on the dashhawk display.
 
From what Ken over at th dashhawk forums said the knock retard could just be a minus from spark advance.

So the spark advance shows total advance, and the knock retard is what the ECU is subtracting from advance. Knock retard won't make spark advance decrease on the dashhawk display.

hmm i see thanks for that info so then how does that pid read ?
 
The ECU parameter that is being read is KNOCK TIMING RETARD.

Isn't that self explanatory?

Well since i was asking i guess not to me!

KNOCK TIMING RETARD doesn’t that emanate the fact that the ecu is retarding the timing advance due to engine knock?
 
ok you must have it set up wrong.....just like i did !!
when you set up the command and actual AFR you should not use the "command AFR pid from the mazda specific section. it will give you the wrong reading. to get the proper AFR command reading you must use the PID for it in the regular "fuel" settings. i changed mine and found that most of the time my car is calling for 10.5:1 and i am actually at 11.5:1 . still plenty safe but for sure not what the car is asking for !

Hmmm. I will have to make that change. I was running the Commanded from the Mazda specific section as well as the actual from the Mazda section and the Wide Band from the Fuel Section only :(
 
hey guys, i got my DH and have been playing around with it. i did some logs monitoring command A/F, actual A/F, RPM, and knock retard. i was impressed with my A/F. the car follows the command at all times....i mean perfectly !! but the knock has me worried. 3rd gar by itself looks OK. 4the by itself is slightly higher but still OK i think.
the run through 3rd and 4th is when it gets scary !
in 4th gear the knock retard jumps up to 4.9 ! the car felt good and the rest of the parameters look good so,....... WTF ???

Haven't you considered that it has something to do with 20 PSI of boost and the fuel that you are using?
 

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