How To: Shift Beeper Install

Bravnik

Member
The product installed is Modfry's Redline Shift Beeper:

http://www.modifry.com/products/rlb/RLB-2 Manual 1.8.pdf - PDF of the install instructions on an S2000. There are none for the MS3 other than the ones I'm writing now :)

Please Note: You will need to send a mail to Modfry before ordering as the install on our car requires a 1 cylinder setting as you will be using the MSD GMR 8918. Bob can easly do this for us but its custom (no extra charge) and will be sent ready to go at 1 cylinder. So please be sure to send Bob a mail before you order a Redline Shift Beeper!!!!!!!!!!

You will also need a MSD Tach GMR 8918 for this installation:

http://www.msdignition.com/2006/06-22.htm

To begin the installation you will need to remove your TMIC - This is very easy and you should never require instructions for this. Locate the 4th coil from the left:



Cut the plastic cover to expose the GREEN wire. This is the wire you will clamp the MSD GMR 8918 too:



With the GMR Clamped in place:



Once clamped in place run the GMR wire to the Fuse Box. I ran it around behind the battery box and then along the side. Then reinstall your TMIC as you're done with this part of the engine.

You will need 2 Add-A-Fuse adapters for this nexxt part of the project:




Remove the cover on the Fuse box and insert the first add-a-fuse into one of the 2 empty fuse spots closest to the front of the car. This one will connect to the Red Wire on the MSD GMR 8918.

(note the pic has both Add-A-Fuse's in place)



You will then need to ground the Black wire on the GMR 8918 to where the Neg Post of the Cars Battery is gounded. This is on the fender wall. Sorry I forgot to take a pic but just follow the Car's Neg Post cable and you can't miss it.

Next install the 2nd Add-A-Fuse. This will be used for the 12v Switched power for the Redline Shift Beeper installation:



Now you will need to run 2 wires from inside the car into the engine bay via the Hood Release cable hole in the firewall. Taking pics of this was tight so I didn't even try. Basically follow the hood release cable to where it enters the firewall. Pull the carpet away and you will see the hole. Its pretty big and easy to run stuff through. I use a 2ft length of copper tubeing as its stong enough but very flexable as well but you can use a coat hanger if you need too.

Tape 2 wire ends to the coat hanger or copper tubing or whatever your using and run it into the hole and UP. This will come up behind the cars Battery Box so its best if you remove the lid to the battery box. Just pull the wires through when you see them.

I used a Red Wire (22g) for the 12vs and Green (22g) for the Tach Signal Wire on the GMR. Connect the green wire to the Green Wire on the GMR for the Tach Signal and then connect the Red wire to the 2nd Add-A-Fuse. Clean up your wires and put the batter box lid on as well as the fuse box lid as you're now complete under the hood of the car:



Inside the Car Now:

Ok so now you should have a 12v and Tach Signal coming into the car via the Firewall Hood Release hole and down onto the drivers side floorboard.

The first thing I did was find a location for the Redline Control Module. If you're looking from the floor up under the driverside dash, I placed my module on the far left side. I used Velcro to put it in this location and ran the wires from the left (center console) to the right (door panel).



I ran the wires from the module across towards the drives side kick panel and then zip tied them into place. I did this so I can pull the module down when I wanted to adjust the RPM settings and I would have plenty of slack.



I then used velcro again to mount the Speaker for the beeper a little deeper into the dash under the stearing wheel. (Note: You can barely see it behind the wires in this pic. It is a round white speaker with a Red and Black wire).



Once done, it was time to do the final connections:

You will now connect the 12vs Red wire you ran from the engine bay to the Red Wire on the Redline Module as well as the Red Wire coming from the Speaker.

You will then need to connect the Green wire coming from the Engine Bay to the WHITE wire on the Redline Module.

After this is done, connect the BROWN wire on the Redline Module to the BLACK wire on the Speaker.

Once complete the only wire you need to worry about now is the BLACK wire on the Redline Module which is the Ground. I removed the drives side kick panel and grounded the Module at the ground spot under it. You can't miss it. You just need to remove the kick panel and you will see it easly. Sorry I forgot to take a pick of this.

Now you're done. I didn't connect the BLUE wire or the Green wire on the module as its a switch that will tell you the highest RPM attained. I found this useless to me but if you want too you can.

Now I set my RPM setting on the Module to 5.5k



I took her for a spin and was happy when everything worked without any issues at all. I LOVE the end result and if others decide to do this install as well, I hope this DIY helps you out.
 
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Yep same thing except you keep your eyes on the road and don't have an annoying flash hitting you in the eyes :)
 
Nice write up. It's funny, just the other day I was wishing I had the extra cash for a sending unit like this one. The difference is that I was going to locate a subtle LED at eye level in the A-pillar. I still have excellent peripheral vision so that would work nicely. I usually have my stereo going, so I'm not sure a buzzer would work for me. Would probably annoy me, "shut up damnit! I like this song! Now I have to rewind. Doggone it you made me miss my shift! Stupid buzzer!"
 
My shift light triggered just fine off the 4V logic signal going to the coil without spending $40 on a booster. I made the connection at the wire going into the connector next to the battery box to avoid the environment under the TMIC. The wire to the LED array in the light can be spliced to pull a relay coil to ground and turn on anything you want like a beeper, or even to blow your horn LOL.
-enganear
 
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