How-To: Install Cobb Springs + Impressions afterwards.

I used a piece of metal put the bolt in backwards then tightened the bolt and it spread the control arm a little slid right off.
 
I used a piece of metal put the bolt in backwards then tightened the bolt and it spread the control arm a little slid right off.

ya, this is probably the best way to do things. i wish i knew at the time i did this so that i didn't have to agonize over how to get the strut out of the control arm...=/
 
Could someone please measure the spring wire diameter of the Cobb Front & rears?
Thanks,
-enganear
 
I don't have them . What are you up to now? You have yet to tune [ modify ] your suspension?

Well since you ask.... I am curious as to the actual spring rates that are being sold as "performance" parts.

I have shortened many stock springs in the past. I have yet to see where anyone on the forums has done this. The rears would be super easy, the fronts just a little more work. Maybe this is a lost art?
-enganear
 
Well since you ask.... I am curious as to the actual spring rates that are being sold as "performance" parts.

I have shortened many stock springs in the past. I have yet to see where anyone on the forums has done this. The rears would be super easy, the fronts just a little more work. Maybe this is a lost art?
-enganear
Shortening springs also makes them stiffer, but in a not well controlled way. Stiffer springs require less compression damping and more rebound damping (assuming the damping rates were good to begin with). Just suggesting caution.
 
Could someone please measure the spring wire diameter of the Cobb Front & rears?
Thanks,
-enganear

i'm planning to change out my tires back to stock over the weekend for the summer, so i'll make sure to check for you if no one has replied. the other alternative is to simply call up cobb and ask. they're very forthcoming about answering questions about their products from my experiences on the phone with them.
 
Shortening springs also makes them stiffer, but in a not well controlled way. Stiffer springs require less compression damping and more rebound damping (assuming the damping rates were good to begin with). Just suggesting caution.

All very true, that is why I would like to know the specs of the Cobb springs.
-enganear
 
ya, i would be really careful about just cutting them. you can tell from the pics i posted that the cobb springs aren't the same coil shape as the stock ones. it's probably best to err on the side of caution here, since if you cut your stockers, you will have a hell of a time switching back...=/
 
ya, i would be really careful about just cutting them. you can tell from the pics i posted that the cobb springs aren't the same coil shape as the stock ones. it's probably best to err on the side of caution here, since if you cut your stockers, you will have a hell of a time switching back...=/

Well actually, I have no intention of cutting my stock springs. I like the stock ride height of the MS3 and the stock spring rates are also good for me. I would like a little more rebound damping. I just like to think about the possibilities and let others know what can be done based on what I know and what I can calculate. Part of my personal challenge is to design modifications that I can make in my shop without investing excessively in someone else's overhead. I would have cast my own MM inserts, but I found that I could not buy the resin for what I could buy the finished product from CS. The spring thing is the same for me. I have cut many sets of springs in the past with only one surprise - I cut 1.5 coils of a 13 turn spring on the front of my Mustang and it went right to the stops. I am STILL trying to figure that one out!
-enganear
 
lol@themustang! :D ya, that sounds like a fun project. i'm waiting to see if my friend is free this weekend (my stock wheels+tires are sitting in his basement) so that i can go up to his place and swap out for summer. when i do, though, i'll make sure to check how wide the coils are for you.
 
ya, i actually already put in the rear sways (about 1 hr in a dark garage using a flashlight), but the front sways will require some extra time, since it actually requires some serious removal of undercarriage parts. i'll be doing that some weekend in the future when it's not freezing cold out...=d

cobb ships an instruction booklet with the sways, though, so it helps a whole hell of a lot. the reason i put the springs and sways in separately is because even though i ordered the full stage 2 suspension, they didn't ship together, so i had to wait for the sways after i had the springs in.

Can you scan or PDF the sway install and PM me with it?

I'm interested in Cobb sways.
 
Here's my car with Cobb Springs installed, they've still got some settling to do I think:

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Loving them so far!
 
as far as H&r springs, would that go in the same? I was curious as to which brand to go with as it seems H&r gives a lower drop than mazdaspeed or cobb springs. But the lower the drop the more chance of camber in the rear which I'd love to avoid
 
yes, the install is the same for all springs. i used this how-to for my road magnet springs last weekend. 1.1" drop all around.
 
as far as H&r springs, would that go in the same? I was curious as to which brand to go with as it seems H&r gives a lower drop than mazdaspeed or cobb springs. But the lower the drop the more chance of camber in the rear which I'd love to avoid

The more you lower the car, the more you are going to get negative camber (the splaying of the rear wheels). The only real problem with too much negative camber is excessive wear on the inside treads of the tires. You can take care of some of this by rotating often or, you can buy adjustable camber arms and have a shop set it for you.
 
According to Cobb's forum, they checked the alignment on their test car and it was within spec with their springs installed. No additional parts were necessary.
 
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