Need Help Troubleshooting

KronixKid22

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2003 Mazda Protege 5
Well I need help with something. I'll try to lay it out as simple as possible.

Problem:
No power to amplifier. I just bought new wiring for the battery to inline fuse (8 inches from battery), fuse holder (ANL Style), and ANL fuse. Did I buy the right fuse? The fuse is 60 amp, and the amplifier has three 25 amp fuses on it (75 amp total), all of which are ok. I read several sites that said get just under how many amps the fuses are on the amplifier.

Now I used to have an AGU fuse but I cracked the case for it and decided to buy all new stuff. I did some research and bought these items:

-MTX 60 amp ANL Fuse (https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned))
-Stinger 4 Gauge Power Wire (https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned))
-Stinger Ring Terminal (https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned))
-Rockford Fosgate ANL Fuse Holder (https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned))

No amplifier and subwoofer worked fine before I did this and I've never had any problems, so I doubt it's the amplifier itself. I believe the amplifier remote wire is still connected from where I checked it, all attachments are correct to the amplifier, and the amp is grounded. Any suggestions? :(
 
Do you have 12 volts or higher at the amp? (checked with a Multi Meter)
Do you have 12 volts at the remote turn on?
Do you have 12 volts going into the fuse at the battery and also comming out of the fuse. (they can look fine but be bad sometimes)

You can also jump the power to remote turn on at the amp to check if the remote is bad or not.

Give those a shot.
James
 
I was going to try those but I don't have a volt meter here. I will try to get one this weekend. Any other ideas?
 
The amp rating on the fuse shouldn't matter in this situation. 60 amps is alot of power and unless the fuse is blown the amp should turn on. You'll have to get a multimeter and test the fuse for continuity, and test the wires to make sure they are carrying voltage. By trial and error you should be able to track it down. If you end up at the amp and there is power coming from your power wire, the ground is secure, and there is power coming from the turn-on lead the only other thing it could be is the amp.
 
Where would I be able to get a cheap volt meter? And if the fuse was blown, it would be broken in the middle, right?
 
Well I changed all the fuses on the amp with brand new ones. I had to go buy a hex key so I can put the amp back in. I'm going to go outside and try to hook everything up again. Will see how it goes.
 
No luck, I'm not even getting power to the amplifier so it has to be in the wiring.
 
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