Dedicated to improving gas millage, by any means!

D

drivethruecp

Member
:
2002 Mazda Protege ES
Dedicated to improving gas millage, by any means! EVERYONE POST

I know this has been discussed many times over the years, but with gas prices constantly rising...I'm guilty of considering a VW TDI for an alternate car. I love my ES, but can't stand the 26.7mpg per tank... Comon' its a 4cyl manual trans. We may have given input to several threads at one time or another. Post your millage as well as everything from your mods, tire size/pressure, shifting habits, and anything that can account for improvement for the sole purpose to get the best fuel economy possible. For those who are struggling PLEASE offer suggestions!

Tires 205/50/16 @ 38psi f&b
AEM SRI
B&M SS w/ Kartboy bushings
Tule roof rack with faring (was getting 28 before, still not good)
Shift @ 3400rpm
 
Last edited:
When I keep my foot out of it, I average 30-30.5 MPG.
MP3 with custom ram air scoop complete with high flow simota filter and 2.75 inch piping. wagner shorty header, 2.25 cat back exhaust with straight thru perforated core magnaflow muffler.
205/45 17 racing harts w/ 38psi front 34 psi rear.

If anyone's desperate, throw out your entire interior except driver's seat, buy skinny tires (185's), ditch the spare tire and jack, keep windows rolled up, remove AC pump and hardware, and most importantly ACCELERATE LIKE GRANDMA.

*edit* I mostly do suburban driving.
 
Last edited:
I get like 35 MPG.

Injen CAI
Thermal R&D catback
KartBoy shift bushings.
Pimpin' fake JDM clear corners
15x6's at 38psi


I drive it like I stole it...I shift at 4k more often than not.
 
That roof rack is killing your mileage.

I get 30-32 and shift around 3500rpm most of the time. At least a few times per tank I will get on it (usually at highway on ramps). On road trips I have seen as high as 35.

Injen CAI
MP3 ECU
stock wheels with 205/50/16, about 34psi

The CAI I just put on, haven't gone through a tank of gas yet but it doesn't appear to be doing anything to my mileage. It's still too early to tell, I love the sound though. The ECU I think gave me 1-2mpg, but I have to use premium fuel so it won't help you save money. I also only use Shell fuel whenever possible. All their fuel is top tier, I think thats what its called, it was formulated by Toyota, GM, and somebody else.
 
i usually get around 25 mpg

mostly city driving

only mods are
bomz sri w/ simota filter w/ heat shield
wagner shorty header
msp axleback
 
I get teh suck 16 mpg(piss) on that

working on a solution this xmas

mods are Injen CAI, RB exhaust, catless midpipe
 
Not Jo3L said:
I get teh suck 16 mpg(piss) on that

working on a solution this xmas

mods are Injen CAI, RB exhaust, catless midpipe
Click to expand...

I've been debating about the catless (stock exhaust) for a while... How much of an improvement would it give? Are there any drawbacks? And how do you prevent it from throwing off our sensors and warning lights..
 
drivethruecp said:
I've been debating about the catless (stock exhaust) for a while... How much of an improvement would it give? Are there any drawbacks? And how do you prevent it from throwing off our sensors and warning lights..
Click to expand...

Well if its just on a stock exhaust I would say you wouldnt feel that much gain. The majority of the gains found in the exhaust system is up front with a nice header kit. Then a catless midpipe would make a nice pair with a exhaust syste if you get them in the same diameters. Drawbacks is that I am not CARB legal here in Cali. IF your state doesnt inspect those then you are all good. And as for warning lights...Mine always stays on because I need to replace my pre-cat.
 
isn't this the 2nd time he's bitching about his gas mileage and we're telling him to get that damn roof rack off?

what will really help in gas mileage also is an intake cam, VTCS removal, and long reach plugs

shifting at 3400rpm kills mileage, shift at 2500-3000!
 
and long reach plugs
Click to expand...

Amen brotha. I put the longer reach ones in before my trip to FLA and got the best mileage ever . Even around town now that I'm back I get much better mileage.

Car runs smoother just like you said in your other thread. Thanks for that info.

Jeremy D
 
upsman said:
Amen brotha. I put the longer reach ones in before my trip to FLA and got the best mileage ever . Even around town now that I'm back I get much better mileage.

Car runs smoother just like you said in your other thread. Thanks for that info.

Jeremy D
Click to expand...
dude, that's what your engine is supposed to have to begin with! it's stock on yours! :p
glad you made it work like it's supposed to again :)
 
TheMAN said:
isn't this the 2nd time he's bitching about his gas mileage and we're telling him to get that damn roof rack off?

what will really help in gas mileage also is an intake cam, VTCS removal, and long reach plugs

shifting at 3400rpm kills mileage, shift at 2500-3000!
Click to expand...

I disagree with the shifting points.
My car gets better gas mileage if I stay in the 3-4000rpm range than the 2-3000rpm range. (hilly terrain mostly)

Best way to improve gas mileage, turbo w/ cruise control!
I got 39.5mpg on my trip to Florida with the a/c on 50% of the time.
No exhaust, clean air and fuel filters, injectors, and plugs make all the difference.

Or you can have a lead right foot with the turbo and get 25mpg (current mileage).
 
dude, most of us don't drive in hill terrain... we don't need to shift that high.. obviously different conditions apply but generally speaking 2500-3000 will get you decent mileage around town
 
noob checking in

just finished the first full tank from the dealership.

i am getting around 21-22 mpg. 50/50 mix of highway / city.

it has been cold here, around freezing and colder at night. i didn't know until reading my manual but they didn't recommend long warmups. i was warming it up for way too long in the mornings. i will refrain from that and see how i make out with this tank.

also, i added some "octane booster" from STP. this car has almost 36,000 kms on it and i don't know if it has ever had any treatments or anything. honestly, i had a hard time deciding which to buy - fuel treatment, octane boost or the other one.
 
TheMAN said:
isn't this the 2nd time he's bitching about his gas mileage and we're telling him to get that damn roof rack off?

what will really help in gas mileage also is an intake cam, VTCS removal, and long reach plugs

shifting at 3400rpm kills mileage, shift at 2500-3000!
Click to expand...

Damn brotha, not bitching exactly. Just figured if you put everyones techniques into one thread, it could help us all. I don't recall complaining in the opening post.. But anyway, can you expand more on the intake cam and VTCS removal if you wouldn't mind?... Would you say this is accurate.. (quoted below) Found in the "VTS removal" thread.. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123664420&highlight=vtcs+removal
here is another link: http://flatblack.somethingsomething.org/p5/porting/

Protegebuddy said:
These are the steps that i did when removing everything.
*Always mark stuff if you're not going to remember where it went.
** This is a rough outline!!

1. Remove after-market/stock intake system.
2. Remove wiring harness clips enough so you can set it all out of the way.
3. Disconnect fuel fittings and remove fuel rail.
4. Disconnect the front EGR fitting on Exhaust manifold/header.
5. Remove the 2 bolts the support the intake on the backside of the mainfold. Helps if the car is raised up.
6. Remove the any tubbing attached to the manifold. VTCS and VICS can stay attached along with PCV system.
7. Disconnect coolant hoses and accelerator cable from the throttle body.
8. Remove the 7 bolts where the manifold is attached to the Cyl. head. The bottom left one and bottom right one will be tricky to remove.
9. At this point the manifold should be able to remove, CAREFULLY lift it up and make sure that the only thing attached is the EGR tube.
10. Remove the intake manifold.
11. http://flatblack.somethingsomething.org/p5/porting/vtcs.html Used this to remove the butterflies. 5/16 tappe works great for the treads where the VTCS modulator was.
12. Make sure that the Manifold and the cylinder head are clean of debris and old gasket material.
13. Reinstall in reverse order.
14. Manifold should be torqued to 14 ft. lbs.

Pretty sure thats all i had to do. Make sure to top off coolant cause you will lose some. I left the holes in the runners open.
Click to expand...
 
Spark Plugs:
1) Long Reach or Extended Reach? Are they different? I've seen both terms used.
2)Brand: Bosch, NGK, etc. (where do I get JDM?) are others better/equally as good? (have a discount at a independent auto parts store, and they carry quite a few brands)
3)Spark Plug Part Number (Extended/Long Reach)?

VTCS Removal:
Any other mods to consider while this is apart..?

I hopefully will get both of these complete this coming weekend

How involved does the intake cam get? I was looking over some old threads. I'm mechanically inclined, being my father helps me out. But seems expensive would be the only concern.
 
Last edited:
Well all i know is that on my old 1.6 i just had an injen CAI with header-back exhaust and I was pushing 32-35. Thats with my upgraded fuel pump.
 
daonly1around said:
use like chevron with tecron or texaco with tecron gas... mine went up three MPG with just changing gas
Click to expand...


Yeh, I know :( My state no longer has those gas stations. Well at least not anywhere remotely close to my area. There was a big discussion on Techron a while back and really makes a difference in our cars!
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Motor Trend 2014 Mazda3 1st Drive: If you Liked the '3 Shared with Ford and Volvo...
2
Replies
20
Views
4K
LH451
L
M
Ford Focus RS vs. Mitsubishi Evo X FQ330 SST vs. Subaru Impreza STi Type UK 330S
Replies
6
Views
7K
dandan2
D
M
Ford Focus RS vs. Mitsubishi Evo X FQ330 SST vs. Subaru Impreza STi Type UK 330S
Replies
1
Views
3K
Kymerik
K

Latest posts

Back