mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
dig in the thread. it was explained already
MS3 Boost Gauge Install
- Thread starter mazdaspeed32007
- Start date
dig in the thread. it was explained already
I know, but the first time you posted this it had a bunch of pics. I can't see them now.
First I cut the hose connected to the top BOV and spliced a T connector to rejoin the hose. I also added the hose i was going to connect directly to my boost gauge. I used about 10 feet of hose which was more than enough to run it clean and not have to much left over to have to hide.
Then I found where the "bunch O' wires went through the fire wall into the cabin so i didnt need to drill another hole into the firewall. (we all probably know how much fun that is.)
To get to the Wires from the engine bay you have to remove a few things first. Lets start out with the AC piping. Just take off the tiny nut to move the pipe to the right, out of the way.
Then Remove the bolt that holds on the heat shield and bend it just far enough out of the way so you can access the wire bunch in the engine bay
Look at that. The bunch o' wires. You might want to run your hose how you want it in the engine bay at this time because youre not going to have the end of the tube anymore.
To access the wires from inside the car you have to first sit in the passenger seat and remove the decretive moulding that runs over the clock screen and goes all the way to the glove box. To remove it just open the glove box and tug on the center until it pops out. be careful because the end towards the passenger door need to be pulled back by bending the piece a little. its pretty bendy so go ahead just be careful. the side by the clock just pops out but also be careful. it does take a little pulling.
Take out the two screws to the glove box and just pull the glove box from the bottom and it will just pop the whole thing out. also, the light is still
connected to the glove box so take that out. its just one screw.
Behind the glove box is a huge array of fuses and such. to the upper right hand corner is the wire bunch. see? Thats where the hose will run through so it never leaves your dash. just poke a little hole in the boot to slide the tubing through. i did it from the outside because you dont have the wires in the way. Then go back inside and try to stick your finger through it to see if you made a hole and pass the tube through the hole. (its a small pain in the butt but not terrible.)
Now that the tubing is in the car, take the two screws out from the radio and pull the radio out. the radio and thermo knobs are two different units so the clock face and radio will come together as one big unit. Pull out the wires that are attached to the radio and put the radio somewhere you wont bonk it up.
The big harness you removed from the radio will have a bunch of wires going into it. (captain obvious) I found the wire that runs with the parking lights. Its the orange wire with the back strip on the right hand side of the harness. cut and splice your positive wire into it for the gauges light. If you know any other lights that run with the parking lights go ahead and tap into those, but i used my radios lights. I grounded my gauge to the shifter assembly as i was putting in my bushings but you can do it anywhere you have bare metal.
Check your set up...nice and clean, almost not even there!
Thats how i installed mine with my lotek gauge pod. what do ya think? not to shabby right? Just reassemble everything the way you removed it and it will look all like new. The gauge pod looks a little off color but my grubby hands were all over it all day so once i used some F1 protectant it looks good as new.
Im in the process of figuring out how to make the pods look less "attached". I dont like the screw caps that stick up. although it doesnt look to bad Im in the process of solutions.
You can see my apexi TT i mounted to the left of the steering wheel in that empty spot. It looks pretty sweet. No install pics though. sorry....
If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask.
POST SOME PICTURES THAT WORK(bang)
you need to look here:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123673332&highlight=voicekoil
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123673332&highlight=voicekoil
mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
holy crap. before someone else gets all bent outta shape about the pictures without reading another page besides the first and last, you might know why theyre not there. read some. i dont have them anymore. i had them on photobucket....the account got lost somehow. i dont have anymore pics of the install. sorry. my bad. the internet sucks. use the tutorial. or dont. i couldnt care less. its still helpful minus the whole no pictures thing. if you dont like it, dont use it. hugs and kisses. -lee
Or just order an a-pillar pod, this was a really easy install with NO removing s***. The only thing that came off was the kick panel by the dead pedal - it has a button!
oskinosmee
Member
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- 07 mazdaspeed 3
How do you read boost in hpka i got one of those instead because im dumb
mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
(1 PSI = 0.06895 hkPa)
thats the numbers mate.
thats the numbers mate.
mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
cant see the pictures. yes. done.
- :
- 2021 3 AWD 2.5T
I still cant see them either.
BluMicaR isn't removing the A-Pillar the hardest part of that job. I remember reading there is a plunger that holds it on thats very tight fit? Now that youve done this, How long u think it should take. Also can you hook up any of these Boost Guages to the Dimmer?
mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
THE...... PICS......... ARE........ GONE!!!!! LIKE GONE!!!! NOT JUST ON THE DAMN PAGE!!!! BUT REALLY GONE!!!!
gone (gn, gŏn) Pronunciation Key
v. Past participle of go1.
adj.
Being away from a place; absent or having departed.
Past; bygone.
Advanced beyond hope or recall.
Dying or dead.
Ruined; lost: a gone cause.
Carried away; absorbed.
Used up; exhausted.
Like if someone is alive and they are talking to you, then they die....now theyre....GONE!!!! DONT EXIST ANYMORE!!!!! The Pictures have perished. I dont have them anymore. I wont have them tomorrow or the day after. I will never have them.
I still cant see the pictures! whats up with that? oh, its because they ARE GONE!
gone (gn, gŏn) Pronunciation Key
v. Past participle of go1.
adj.
Being away from a place; absent or having departed.
Past; bygone.
Advanced beyond hope or recall.
Dying or dead.
Ruined; lost: a gone cause.
Carried away; absorbed.
Used up; exhausted.
Like if someone is alive and they are talking to you, then they die....now theyre....GONE!!!! DONT EXIST ANYMORE!!!!! The Pictures have perished. I dont have them anymore. I wont have them tomorrow or the day after. I will never have them.
I still cant see the pictures! whats up with that? oh, its because they ARE GONE!
mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
Isnt that nuts? Thats at the top of the page! Stupid me. I didnt need to explain it a THIRD TIME!
my bad perhaps because I was too eager to see the install pictures. When you corrected me and said "done" by saying that I "thought" you mean you corrected it. Sorry for the confusion.
I'd say just leave 4 hours to yourself and you should be good, not including time to prime and paint the pod. Taking the a-pillar off is about 10m the very first time, you want to be careful and not hurt any of the interior of course. Then you attach the pod to your pillar, and drill a hole for wires, put the gauge in there, and reattach the pillar, running wires down the door frame plastic to the kick panel outlet (there's a channel running down the frame you'll see). Use a hanger to pull the wires down from the top out the bottom by your cable of wires under the kick panel. The rest is clipping into the wires I mentioned with your power/acc wires for the gauge. Next is getting your sender hooked into the vacuum line by the BPV and mounted. You'll want to pull the battery out and the IC cover first. Then look for the rubber grommet around the hood pull and run wire (and vac line if you are doing a manual) through there. I think an electrical gauge is easier because you don't have to run any vacuum hose other than in the engine bay to the sender. If you leave 4 hours it won't take that long, more than likely, but it gives you time to look at everything you're going to do and plan and be 'familiar' with the car so you don't scar your $25k baby. Someone else asked if you could put it in the dimmer, I don't know. Maybe? You'd probably need a wiring manual/diagram; I think all 'dimming' is works by reducing voltage to the bulbs, so I don't see why not if that's correct. My way just bypassed all the possible pain in the ass steps. I did NOT want to take my radio out and dash apart!
mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
its alright i just felt like being a dick. ******* photobucket deleted my account or something and i lost a ton of pics. whaddya gunna do? oh well. i can pm you some pics of the finished product and when i get time ill send where i went in and s***?
