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- Completely Stock P5
It's easy. Take off your glovebox and there it is. 2 phillips screws. I just cleaned mine instead with alcohol, fixed it. Rather than buying a new one.
Solution To Flickering Fan Speed 2 or 3 A/C
- Thread starter Weborific
- Start date
It's easy. Take off your glovebox and there it is. 2 phillips screws. I just cleaned mine instead with alcohol, fixed it. Rather than buying a new one.
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
so this is the fix? and cleaning it works just as well?I had the same problem. Every place I read said I had to replace the entire HVAC controlls. So I just dealt with having AC by feathering the switch someplace between 3 & 4. After 2 years of juggling this dilema I took everything apart and tried cleaning the switch. Long story short the switch is not the problem.
The problem was under the glove box.
It cost me $26 to fix the problem. Now I have all 4 speeds again and AC in all 4 speeds. No more flickering!!!! No more feathering the switch between 3&4 to get the AC's green light to come on. All works like it did when I got the car way back in 2003 with 3 miles on her.
I changed out the blower motor resistor. www.rockauto.com
2003 MAZDA PROTEGE5 2.0L 2000cc L4 FI DOHC : Heat & Air Conditioning : Blower Motor Resistor.
Part # RU332
Price: $25.79
I'm gonna venture a guess that this is probably like the EGR problem with the proteges. You can clean it and it'll work for a while, but it'll probably need to be replaced for a more permanent (er... less temporary?) fix.
I went for a drive. While it works a bit better, cleaning blower motor resistor pack did not totally fix the issue. I'm going to clamp the wire contacts behind the controls, and see if that works. If not, maybe the new resistor pack for the blower motor will fix the issue. Updates to follow.
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
you have the new part...why not just replace it?
Thanks for this information. I replaced the blower motor resistor first as that seemed cheapest and easiest. After reading your post and the poll of how it worked for others I knew I had found the missing info. Thanks for the detailed post and great pictures. My connector had gotten quite hot and has melted part of the surrounding plastic connector that holds the contacts. The process worked for me!
Does anyone know where I might order a connector like shown in AC PINOUT.jpg above. I will try the Mazda dealer, however if there is a supplier online I would rather order it that way.
Does anyone know where I might order a connector like shown in AC PINOUT.jpg above. I will try the Mazda dealer, however if there is a supplier online I would rather order it that way.
99ProtegeKV
Member
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- 2002 Mazda Protege5 2.0L Auto.
gotta try this.
crazylikeafox11
Member
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- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Just accidentally came across this thread after I've been meaning to search for it for some time. I'll have to read through the thread and try the recommended fix(es). Thanks!
How do you disconnect the wires from the control unit?
These are the steps I got up to, then couldn't figure out how to remove the control unit.
1. Remove front bezel
2. Remove screws for control unit
3. Remove glove box to access rear of center console
I cant reach around and feel behind the control unit from the glove box. Is there another way to access?
These are the steps I got up to, then couldn't figure out how to remove the control unit.
1. Remove front bezel
2. Remove screws for control unit
3. Remove glove box to access rear of center console
I cant reach around and feel behind the control unit from the glove box. Is there another way to access?
Thanks for posting, OP!! Had this problem after nearly 10 years and 110k miles. I'm embarrassed that I let it go for about 6 months before finally deciding to look into it, and that it only took 20 minutes to fix.
After about 10 miles post-fix, so far so good (2thumbs)
After about 10 miles post-fix, so far so good (2thumbs)
Please help. I cant figure out how to remove the A/C control panel. I know there are cables holding it in from being pulled from the dash (when the panels is off) but where is the cable to remove?
Edit: Figured out where the cables were. What I cant figure out is how to remove the spade crimp connectors from the plastic housing.
Edit: Figured out where the cables were. What I cant figure out is how to remove the spade crimp connectors from the plastic housing.
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Use a tiny screwdriver, or maybe the prong of a fork. If you look inside the connector you'll see the little plastic tab that you have to depress in order to remove each spade connector. If you don't have anything small enough to access the little tabs, you could try skipping the removal & cleaning, and just crimp the spade connectors whilst inside the connector housing. Just be careful and don't go shorting power to ground or anything like that.
