The "What mods for a daily driven MSP?" Guide Thread

i just had the rear put in, took protege garage a few hrs. its a minimum 2 hr job, and thats if u know what ur doin. the rear certainly increased the stiffness, if u just use the corksport front and rear inserts it wont have much vibration. i have more with the side inserts now but its tolerable. in fact its less than my 70 duro awr mount was. And its definately tighter i can feel it driving.

im running 11 psi with the flash and supporting mods.
 
Hey terbow,

So you just have the front/rear/side corksport inserts installed? Not sure what you mean...
I'm trying to figure out what to do myself to stop the engine from moving too much but with out the vibration of course. Thanks.
 
hm... im going to get a FMIC, should i get a blow off valve and move my MAFS to the different location? is there a topic about this somewhere? &how do you hook up a boost gauge and the Blow Off Valve? does the vacume line just go into the other vacume lines anywhere in the system?

any why relocate the MAFS?
 
Outlawstar98 said:
hm... im going to get a FMIC, should i get a blow off valve and move my MAFS to the different location? is there a topic about this somewhere? &how do you hook up a boost gauge and the Blow Off Valve? does the vacume line just go into the other vacume lines anywhere in the system?

any why relocate the MAFS?
Click to expand...

I've seen a lot of threads on this matter. Supposedly having a bov after the MAS causes stalling cuz the ecu thinks you are taking in more air than you actually are. The're are a lot of solutions but the one that makes the most sense to me is to relocate the MAS to between the bov and tb that way the MAS is reading the correct volume of air going to the engine. I've never done it just read so get a few more opinions before tearing stuff up. I don't know about hooking the stuff up but i'm probably going to use a similar setup so if you find out let me know!!
 
arkitek said:
Hey terbow,

So you just have the front/rear/side corksport inserts installed? Not sure what you mean...
I'm trying to figure out what to do myself to stop the engine from moving too much but with out the vibration of course. Thanks.
Click to expand...

sorry didnt see this. yea i have inserts all around. its definately much stiffer than stock and the vibration is less than when i had just the AWR front mount in its lowest durometer
 
I personally didnt like when mine was relocated. Im a stickler for not losing function when modding. I got erratic Idle, and it would sometimes buck between shifts. I personally dont see the benefit other than to run a BOV.

I find it better to just recirculate with MAF based systems. Since they serve the same purpose (BOV and BPV), i go with what causes the least amount of issues. BOV is just for noise.

If you must have the noise run the dual setup , many people have had success with this, you can relocate the maf but i personally didnt like it. You may not be as picky. I made this guide based on the mods that dont make u go 'WTF was that happening for' when driving around town or on your daily commute.

Since the MAF meters the air coming from the intake (point of entry), if u run a BOV, the air it vents off was metered in the engine so it thinks that air is there but its really not, car runs rich or stalls, or idles really low. No good. IF u move the MAF post BOV then it only meters the air after everything but right before the Throttle plate, so it doenst know your missing the air. While this sounds like a good idea in thoery, the maf isnt made for a pressure pipe, nor is it good for the air to revery back through it when the throttle plate closes.

You want your BPV or BOV to have its own vac source. If you need the extra ports u can tee into another line for the gauge, or get a vac block to put in the brake booster line that will give u more ports.

Outlawstar98 said:
hm... im going to get a FMIC, should i get a blow off valve and move my MAFS to the different location? is there a topic about this somewhere? &how do you hook up a boost gauge and the Blow Off Valve? does the vacume line just go into the other vacume lines anywhere in the system?

any why relocate the MAFS?
Click to expand...
 
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This is the best thread ever!!! Almost all my questions have been answered just by reading all the way through! Thanks guys and gals!
 
Hi, thanks for the thread its been a big help. Right now I'm trying to figure out what to save for. I have hard pipes, MBC, boost gauge. What should I shoot for next? SMIC, wastegate?

I was also wondering..Can you run 10PSI on stock block and internals?
 
I would suggest EMS next for safety purposes, then SMIC and turbo back exhaust. Replace the wastegate once it goes and sure you can run 10psi on a stock block and internals, the real question is how long can you? I would suggest not running that until you have all the support mods, and even then you risk blowing your motor.
 
Maybe when I get the support mods I will run 8 psi but I think I read that even then you still run the risk of being in the zoom zoom boom club.

I forgot to mention I have a cat back exhaust but looking for a down pipe any good ones out there?

Hate being a noob but does EMS stand for engine management system? and what does the Split Second AFC look like I looked all over google but not sure I'm looking at the right item?
 
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yea EMS is engine management system. in the technical sense we just need a fuel and/or timing controller. EMS's are usually the standalone units.

if your just doin 8 as the max, get the AFC1 or 2, they dont have timing control, but at that level you really dont need it.

http://www.splitsec.com/products/psc1/PSC1.jpg

thats what it looks like.

its really easy to use, you can just install it and go with good results. you wont be dissapointed.

I think im going to change the guide around a little in its order. the way ihad it is perfectly acceptable since we dont turn up the boost till after the ems. however, ems was my first mod and i think it should be everyones cause the AFC really does a good job of adjusting for higher boost without even changing the map.You can probably find one used here. or as ken at protegegarage if he has any.

to answer the psi question. we cant answer that. the engine isnt forged from factory so anything can set it off. i run 10 daily, and i used to run 12 (with supporting mods) and mine is still ticking, however that doesnt mean yours will. I think 8 would be a resonably safe number.
 
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Never saw this thread until now...very helpfull and I'm gonna try the corksport rear motor mount inserts, cause I'm not enjoying the rear AWR even at 70 durameter.

Thanks
 
Motor Mounts

i replaced the front/rear/side motor mounts with the highest durometer (i think it is 90...?) and my car vibrates ALOT below 1200 rpm. I enjoy it though and i have no wheel hop.

As for exhaust first, that is what i did, and i think that is what shot the stock motor mounts. I noticed a HUGE increase from the stock, but the ION system was dynoed (spelling...?) with like at least a 30 hp increase. I was also lead to beleive that you should be able to get the air out before you increase what you are taking in (exhaust first vs. SMIC/CAI/SRI first).
Just my thoughts for whatever it is worth...
 
Hey, im new to here, Im planning on buying a mazdaspeed protege in about a week and have been looking up stuff about it, ive done some reading about what I can do to get a little more hp outa the car, after i buy the car i will be broke for the most part, so im looking for saving up and buying the mods and getting them installed in bulk to hopefully save labor costs. My first car i was thinking about buying was the wrx at around 220hp, so i thought i could have some mods to the protege to reach around there.
-The mods that i have thought about getting are;
-costommsp SMIC, WeaponR Hard Pipe kit(couldn't find Turbohoses), Injen Intake, AWR front/rear mounts, split second..controller, as far as exhaust I looked at the corksport or thermal catback, not sure which one is a little quieter but has same power. As far as boost gauges and controllers im not sure to get the electronic controller combo or if it is cheaper to get the manual controller then a gauge,(plan on running around 8psi) and is a turbotimer something i should get as one of the first things? or even at all. and will a BOV complicate everything?
Anyways i know this is a lot but i dont really know to much about cars and mods ect.. my main goal is the have around 200-225hp with the bolt on mods, keeping it on the cheaper side and easy to use so i dont have to worry about my car in everyday driving.
sorry for the wall of text, but any info would be great, btw great thread!
 
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SpeedAdiction20 said:
Hey, im new to here, Im planning on buying a mazdaspeed protege in about a week and have been looking up stuff about it, ive done some reading about what I can do to get a little more hp outa the car, after i buy the car i will be broke for the most part, so im looking for saving up and buying the mods and getting them installed in bulk to hopefully save labor costs. My first car i was thinking about buying was the wrx at around 220hp, so i thought i could have some mods to the protege to reach around there.
-The mods that i have thought about getting are;
-costommsp SMIC, WeaponR Hard Pipe kit(couldn't find Turbohoses), Injen Intake, AWR front/rear mounts, split second..controller, as far as exhaust I looked at the corksport or thermal catback, not sure which one is a little quieter but has same power. As far as boost gauges and controllers im not sure to get the electronic controller combo or if it is cheaper to get the manual controller then a gauge,(plan on running around 8psi) and is a turbotimer something i should get as one of the first things? or even at all. and will a BOV complicate everything?
Anyways i know this is a lot but i dont really know to much about cars and mods ect.. my main goal is the have around 200-225hp with the bolt on mods, keeping it on the cheaper side and easy to use so i dont have to worry about my car in everyday driving.
sorry for the wall of text, but any info would be great, btw great thread!
Click to expand...

If you dont want the exhaust much louder, look at replacing the midpipe, spipe and jpipe that way you can keep the stock muffler but still have the performance of the better exhaust. The only thing that would change as far as sound would be that the tone would be a litte deeper. check out www.protegegarage.com they have midpipes (cat/catless) for good prices for the MSP
 
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