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The "What mods for a daily driven MSP?" Guide Thread
- Thread starter terbow
- Start date
Thanks for all the great info in one place. I was wondering about what 1/4 mile time and hp number. I know these cars are not about the 1/4. I just wanted to know if it would be faster than 15's. Because it is too much money to go slower than that. Thanks again.
Thanks for all the great info in one place. I was wondering about what 1/4 mile time and hp number. I know these cars are not about the 1/4. I just wanted to know if it would be faster than 15's. Because it is too much money to go slower than that. Thanks again.
i would damn well hope its faster than 15, of course thats driver dependant.
So what kind of power do these mods net?
that is an excellent question. my guess would be around the 200-210 mark but thats speculation. when i had those mods the car ran really well and pulled right to redline. thats what it was about, daily driving fun without having to deal with the problems of forging or going with high hp.
I just know they work, my methodology is to get it how i want it to drive, not necessasarily shoot for a number cause mentally when u come up short it makes it seem slower.
However, you and anyone who follows my guide that fit into that category will love how the car drives. i can guarentee it.
is it smart to get an SMIC as one of the first mods or is that somethin to hold off for a little while?
Dunno about the others, but i am going to start by allowing the engine to evacuate exhaust with less restriction.
Vibrant 3" exhaust for me with engine and exhaust stiffer mounts. Then, the rest...My exhaust is due anyways... .it's just about had it!
later all...
2.0t03speed
Member
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- 08.5 CWP Speed 3
is it smart to get an SMIC as one of the first mods or is that somethin to hold off for a little while?
well 1st what are your power goals?
Dunno about the others, but i am going to start by allowing the engine to evacuate exhaust with less restriction.
Vibrant 3" exhaust for me with engine and exhaust stiffer mounts. Then, the rest...My exhaust is due anyways... .it's just about had it!
later all...
that's what i did first. Vibrant 3" > mounts > intake > unichip > fmic.
i didn't really notice much with the addition of the vibrant to my otherwise stock car, but i know that each mod after that will yield more than if it weren't such a good exhaust. with an intercooler, you definitely see an immediately apparent difference in driveability and power!
is it smart to get an SMIC as one of the first mods or is that somethin to hold off for a little while?
if you plan on staying at 10 or under psi u can get it any time u want.
that's what i did first. Vibrant 3" > mounts > intake > unichip > fmic.
i didn't really notice much with the addition of the vibrant to my otherwise stock car, but i know that each mod after that will yield more than if it weren't such a good exhaust. with an intercooler, you definitely see an immediately apparent difference in driveability and power!
Yep, thats what i've heard.... it's noticeable once other mods are made.
My exhaust is rusting and the stock muffler has a defect and of course, Mazda says it's not their fault! Anyways, i'm getting the Vibrant and at least that should give me a few years of trouble free operation!
the IC upgrade i have also heard a lot about, but the thing is what to buy?
One thing to look for is also system pressure restriction and pressure build up. Like fluids going through pipes, you get restriction as pressure and volume of air (CFM) increases thus getting pressure drop along the piping that creates friction and thus heat. With the intercooler and piping you want a good balance between turbo spool, pressure build up and the least pressure restriction at max psi. The tricky part is to get it all right. I do not have the solution, but i think we all get the picture and some time should be spent calculating what you want.
Some intercoolers will show the rated CFM flow with psi drop at IC exit. This let's you know if you are to aggressive in IC size vs turbo max CFM at required boost setting or to conservative. If to big, you will feel lag as the turbo needs to spool more to fill system with air and then start to compress it. If you go to small, you wil get very fast boost but turbo will need to work harder to overcome restriction etc...
So unless going to race on a professional level, stick with a SMIC or smaller size FMIC and matched size piping.
My opinion on this...anyone wanna share any experience on this?
my goals are really just do have a fun daily driver, without forging the engine or anything like that, so basically just bolt ons. i dont really have a specific goal that im looking to get right now, but im thinking after i start modding the car i will get a feel for what i really want out of it.
I just want this thing running smoothly. I am afraid to really use the right pedal because about 1/3 of the time it jerks. A few more ponies wouldn't hurt too. Right now it's well over 100 everyday, and with the AC blowing and a couple passengers, it isn't pretty.
I love the car, it's fun as hell, but a smooth power delivery would be very welcome. Haven't done too much research on here, and just read the sticky on the reflash. Guess I'll give my "friendly" neighborhood Mazda dealer a call.
Question though. A MBC is about $80, why would you bother with swapping out the wastegate?
I love the car, it's fun as hell, but a smooth power delivery would be very welcome. Haven't done too much research on here, and just read the sticky on the reflash. Guess I'll give my "friendly" neighborhood Mazda dealer a call.
Question though. A MBC is about $80, why would you bother with swapping out the wastegate?
The reason the WGA are replaced so much is because the stock actuator goes bad and it will read as if the line wasn't connected. I had mine do the opposite to where it had trouble making boost, replaced it and it was fine. Maybe that's what your getting with the jerking, you may be hitting fuel cut. Do you have a boost gauge?
The reason the WGA are replaced so much is because the stock actuator goes bad and it will read as if the line wasn't connected. I had mine do the opposite to where it had trouble making boost, replaced it and it was fine. Maybe that's what your getting with the jerking, you may be hitting fuel cut. Do you have a boost gauge?
The stock actuator on the MSP has a diaphragm that reacts to boost. When you start building boost, that pressure acts against the diaphragm and putts pressure on the link that is connected to the wastegate vavle on the exhaust side turbine. This in return opens or closes slowly or quickly depending on boost and engine loads thus keeping the boost pressure under control. When the acuator fails, it leaks pressure so it now cannot react as well at boost, so when in fact you might be boosting at 10 psi+ because the acuator can only manage to feel you are at 5-6 psi because of the leak preventing full boost sensing on the diaphragm.
You are now on the virge of zoom zoom boom! That is why a first mod to have in a turbo car is a boost gauge. No matter what can go wrong, you are always reading the true intake manifold pressure. that's where i have mine conected and the readings are what is going into the cylinders. If anything goes wrong, i know if it's a leak, or overkill boost from a failing actuator.
You can change the actuator with a forge one that allows to customize PSI operation with a specific spring. It can also be rebuilt.
Hope this helps!
You might just be experiencing normal hesitation on these cars. I wouldn't go with the reflash quite yet. From what I've heard the reflash makes it much harder to run higher boost on the stock ECU, if you decide to go that route later on. If by "jerking" you mean it feels like the car has more power but its holding back I would go with the DSM AFC, that should solve that problem.I just want this thing running smoothly. I am afraid to really use the right pedal because about 1/3 of the time it jerks. A few more ponies wouldn't hurt too. Right now it's well over 100 everyday, and with the AC blowing and a couple passengers, it isn't pretty.
I love the car, it's fun as hell, but a smooth power delivery would be very welcome. Haven't done too much research on here, and just read the sticky on the reflash. Guess I'll give my "friendly" neighborhood Mazda dealer a call.
EDIT: My own little question.
How hard is it to do the rear motor mount inserts? I really would like to stiffen up my mounts a bit but don't want the vibrations from the full replacements. My car vibrates enough from the subwoofer, don't need to speed up the squeakiness of my interior any more than the sub does.
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