I am compiling this guide for those of you who want to have an all around fun car. I see lots of "What should I do to my daily driven MSP?" threads. Inside those threads I see lots of suggestions but a lot of times they aren't cohesive to a daily driving situation. You want something that will be fun to drive, peppy, and be reliable.
The scope of this guide is to use bolt-on parts to get your car to put a smile on your face without having to be under it every day. This is all based on my personal experience. I have personally owned and ran these parts; therefore this is my real world opinion. If you disagree that's absolutely fine and you are allowed, however this is a guide, not an end all statement.
Some of these items can be argued as minimal gains, which is true, but this is a total package of looks and performance and reliability. You can add them all at once or separately, but I am speaking of the end result, so adding one part may do nothing until you get all the parts.
This is just performance based. The MSP handles well from the factory, so if its not broke don't fix it.
First and foremost! Before you add anything to your car, you must make sure its running right. A poorly running car won't perform well no matter how many parts you add.
I put these in the order in which I think they should be placed on the car. However its not necessasary to follow, the end result is the same. To run more psi, you NEED at least these core components.
Charge Cooling
SMIC Upgrade
The stock SMIC sucks. It heatsoaks in 10 minutes and really chokes the turbo. Get either CustomMSP's or even Turbohoses, but you need to get one. Many will argue that FMIC's cool better, and they do, but you loose your throttle response (peppyness) with the extra piping of most kits (at the time of posting). With the SMIC you will get a nice HP boost and when you step on it, it goes. That's what we want.
Update: With the rise of the turbosmart FMIC and custom cuts becoming more common and with, im told, good throttle response, the choice to put in a FMIC is there. This will cool the air better because of better flow. However if you don't wish to cut the car, mod the car, or if your not racing a FMIC is not necessasary in low boost. I have not personally tried the new FMIC so i cant say how it reacts in terms of throttle response. My update is based on ease of install and amount of work to be put in. Some people just dont want to get that deep into modding.
Air Delivery
Intake
This one's your choice; Injen is nice but any one will do. Stick with aluminum piping. If you go the short ram route (ie. Filter isn't in fender) then I would build a box or shield for the filter so the engine doesn't suck up all that hot engine bay air. Heat kills HP. The car will pull a bunch of timing if things are too hot in the kitchen.
Hardpipes
The stock MSP plastic pipes expand and contract with heat, and they don't release heat well either. This can lead to inconsistent runs. Replace them with aluminum hardpipes. I prefer Turbohoses but you can go custom or other vendors.
* Aluminum provides the best heat transfer which is what you want. You don't want your charge pipes or intake holding in hot air. If you cant afford aluminum pipes then I'd wait and do it right the first time. If you really don't want to spend the money you can get steel, but I really recommend aluminum.
Suspension
Corksport Front and Rear Mount Inserts
With the new exhaust you will be giving up some bracketing that keeps the exhaust from moving, so to compensate you need to stiffen up the motor. While many complain of vibrations the solution I have is really good. These inserts vibrate less than the AWR 70 front mount alone.
These alone will keep the engine from moving so much the exhaust breaks. Plus, they are required for warranty on the CS exhaust / J and S pipe.
AWR Side Inserts (Optional)
This will further enhance what the front and rear inserts do with minimal vibration addition. Optional but I recommend them.
By adding the mounts you also cut down on the stress on the transmission from the engine bouncing around; your power will go to the ground now. Also helpa eliminate wheel hop.
Shifter Inserts (Optional)
These are also optional but really add to the feel of the car. They tighten up the shifting, which can add to the fun of driving. Corksport has these also.
Exhaust
Corksport J Pipe
Corksport Power Series Exhaust (I welded in a cat). If it's too loud use the Mazdaseped axle-back -- it's much quieter and the power difference is minimal.
The reasoning behind using this exhaust is that its mandrel bent and cheap. The size is perfect because when you release back pressure, you lose your low-end torque. This isn't fun. Plus, this exhaust comes with the front and rear inserts you will be needing. Twofer.
Exhaust Options (these are not necessary but will help)
Corksport S Pipe
Extrude Honed / Ported & Polished Stock S pipe (less likely to crack)
Fuel Delivery
Split Second AFC
I have owned many EMS's, including standalone. For what were doing here, a standalone is way overkill and will lead to more headache than its worth. This AFC is by far the best out of the box solution you can buy. I have a custom setup and its running solid 11.5 AFR's right out of the box.
This will keep the MSP from bogging down and adding a bunch of unnecessary fuel. In my opinion, timing isn't an issue at the 10 PSI you will be running. Others will argue, but my car runs like a beast and is smooth so I'll let the pudding be the proof, and proof tastes like chocolate.
Every car is different so you will need to tune it accordingly, but its easy to do. I shoot for an AFR of 12:1, 11.0-11.5 for safety.
Boost
Once you have all those things it's safe* to run 10 PSI. Get a quality boost controller and boost gauge and set it to 10 PSI.
Or if you want, you can replace your wastegate with a higher rated one. ATPturbo.com sells them. The ATP one is rated for 6 psi however as a drop in, it runs 10psi. So keep that in mind and its non adjustable. Due to poor performance i can no longer recommend the Forge Wastegate.
* Safe is a relative term. I assume no responsibility if your car blows up because the engine can't handle it. By raising the boost, you assume the risk. I have been running 10 PSI for many years and I find it to be the best middle ground of safety and power.
Upgraded Bypass Valve (optional)
Forge makes a nice upgraded unit that fits in the stock spot. Although its not necessary, the stock one can be prone to leaking when it gets older. Again, this would add to consistency of runs.
Monitoring
Boost Gauge
This is an invaluable tool. For one, it tells you how much boost you are running. Second, it tells you how much vacuum you are pulling so you can tell if you have a leak. You should be sitting around 20-23 at idle. If less, you have a leak, fix it.
Wideband O2 Gauge
Another great tool; in order to tune properly, you really want to have one of these. The AFC will get by with its O2 input so you don't need it per se. However, you need to have it so you can get the AFR dead on where you need it.
The scope of this guide is to use bolt-on parts to get your car to put a smile on your face without having to be under it every day. This is all based on my personal experience. I have personally owned and ran these parts; therefore this is my real world opinion. If you disagree that's absolutely fine and you are allowed, however this is a guide, not an end all statement.
Some of these items can be argued as minimal gains, which is true, but this is a total package of looks and performance and reliability. You can add them all at once or separately, but I am speaking of the end result, so adding one part may do nothing until you get all the parts.
This is just performance based. The MSP handles well from the factory, so if its not broke don't fix it.
First and foremost! Before you add anything to your car, you must make sure its running right. A poorly running car won't perform well no matter how many parts you add.
I put these in the order in which I think they should be placed on the car. However its not necessasary to follow, the end result is the same. To run more psi, you NEED at least these core components.
Charge Cooling
SMIC Upgrade
The stock SMIC sucks. It heatsoaks in 10 minutes and really chokes the turbo. Get either CustomMSP's or even Turbohoses, but you need to get one. Many will argue that FMIC's cool better, and they do, but you loose your throttle response (peppyness) with the extra piping of most kits (at the time of posting). With the SMIC you will get a nice HP boost and when you step on it, it goes. That's what we want.
Update: With the rise of the turbosmart FMIC and custom cuts becoming more common and with, im told, good throttle response, the choice to put in a FMIC is there. This will cool the air better because of better flow. However if you don't wish to cut the car, mod the car, or if your not racing a FMIC is not necessasary in low boost. I have not personally tried the new FMIC so i cant say how it reacts in terms of throttle response. My update is based on ease of install and amount of work to be put in. Some people just dont want to get that deep into modding.
Air Delivery
Intake
This one's your choice; Injen is nice but any one will do. Stick with aluminum piping. If you go the short ram route (ie. Filter isn't in fender) then I would build a box or shield for the filter so the engine doesn't suck up all that hot engine bay air. Heat kills HP. The car will pull a bunch of timing if things are too hot in the kitchen.
Hardpipes
The stock MSP plastic pipes expand and contract with heat, and they don't release heat well either. This can lead to inconsistent runs. Replace them with aluminum hardpipes. I prefer Turbohoses but you can go custom or other vendors.
* Aluminum provides the best heat transfer which is what you want. You don't want your charge pipes or intake holding in hot air. If you cant afford aluminum pipes then I'd wait and do it right the first time. If you really don't want to spend the money you can get steel, but I really recommend aluminum.
Suspension
Corksport Front and Rear Mount Inserts
With the new exhaust you will be giving up some bracketing that keeps the exhaust from moving, so to compensate you need to stiffen up the motor. While many complain of vibrations the solution I have is really good. These inserts vibrate less than the AWR 70 front mount alone.
These alone will keep the engine from moving so much the exhaust breaks. Plus, they are required for warranty on the CS exhaust / J and S pipe.
AWR Side Inserts (Optional)
This will further enhance what the front and rear inserts do with minimal vibration addition. Optional but I recommend them.
By adding the mounts you also cut down on the stress on the transmission from the engine bouncing around; your power will go to the ground now. Also helpa eliminate wheel hop.
Shifter Inserts (Optional)
These are also optional but really add to the feel of the car. They tighten up the shifting, which can add to the fun of driving. Corksport has these also.
Exhaust
Corksport J Pipe
Corksport Power Series Exhaust (I welded in a cat). If it's too loud use the Mazdaseped axle-back -- it's much quieter and the power difference is minimal.
The reasoning behind using this exhaust is that its mandrel bent and cheap. The size is perfect because when you release back pressure, you lose your low-end torque. This isn't fun. Plus, this exhaust comes with the front and rear inserts you will be needing. Twofer.
Exhaust Options (these are not necessary but will help)
Corksport S Pipe
Extrude Honed / Ported & Polished Stock S pipe (less likely to crack)
Fuel Delivery
Split Second AFC
I have owned many EMS's, including standalone. For what were doing here, a standalone is way overkill and will lead to more headache than its worth. This AFC is by far the best out of the box solution you can buy. I have a custom setup and its running solid 11.5 AFR's right out of the box.
This will keep the MSP from bogging down and adding a bunch of unnecessary fuel. In my opinion, timing isn't an issue at the 10 PSI you will be running. Others will argue, but my car runs like a beast and is smooth so I'll let the pudding be the proof, and proof tastes like chocolate.
Every car is different so you will need to tune it accordingly, but its easy to do. I shoot for an AFR of 12:1, 11.0-11.5 for safety.
Boost
Once you have all those things it's safe* to run 10 PSI. Get a quality boost controller and boost gauge and set it to 10 PSI.
Or if you want, you can replace your wastegate with a higher rated one. ATPturbo.com sells them. The ATP one is rated for 6 psi however as a drop in, it runs 10psi. So keep that in mind and its non adjustable. Due to poor performance i can no longer recommend the Forge Wastegate.
* Safe is a relative term. I assume no responsibility if your car blows up because the engine can't handle it. By raising the boost, you assume the risk. I have been running 10 PSI for many years and I find it to be the best middle ground of safety and power.
Upgraded Bypass Valve (optional)
Forge makes a nice upgraded unit that fits in the stock spot. Although its not necessary, the stock one can be prone to leaking when it gets older. Again, this would add to consistency of runs.
Monitoring
Boost Gauge
This is an invaluable tool. For one, it tells you how much boost you are running. Second, it tells you how much vacuum you are pulling so you can tell if you have a leak. You should be sitting around 20-23 at idle. If less, you have a leak, fix it.
Wideband O2 Gauge
Another great tool; in order to tune properly, you really want to have one of these. The AFC will get by with its O2 input so you don't need it per se. However, you need to have it so you can get the AFR dead on where you need it.
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