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Thread: HOW-TO: Mazda6 Rear Door Panel Removal (Bonus sound deadening)

  1. #1
    goes to eleven chuyler1's Avatar
    NEMOC & Rotary Moderator

    2013 CX-9

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    Mar 2003
    Live Free or Die

    HOW-TO: Mazda6 Rear Door Panel Removal (Bonus sound deadening)

    This is primarily for newbies but some veterans may enjoy part 2 where I install sound deadening material inside the door.

    Part 1: Door panel removal for basic speaker install

    Tools required:
    Wire cutters
    Small flat blade screwdriver
    Medium phillips screwdriver

    Step 1: Remove hinge panel

    Use the flat blade screwdriver to pop the cap off the hidden phillips screw.

    Pull the hinge toward the front of the car and out.
    Note, you will have to remove door lock wiring harness on front doors.

    Step 2: Remove the handle panel

    Using the flat blade again, pop the handle cover off.
    Note, driver's side door has a single screw under a rubber pad in the arm rest.

    Unscrew the two phillps screws that are now accessible.

    Note, front doors have one more screw hidden behind the door light on the bottom.

    Step 3: Pop the door panel

    They make a special tool for this but I've always used my fingers and a screwdriver to get started. Here is a quick way to start out on the Mazda6. Shove your flat blade in the location shown in the image and use it to pull the door panel toward you. One clip should pop and leave enough room to fit your fingers in. Wear gloves to avoid cutting yourself.

    Step 4: Disconnect wiring harness

    The rear doors have a single wiring harness for the lock and window. Use your flat blade to push the clip in while you pull the harness out.
    Note, front doors have additional harnesses.

    Here is a quick shot of behind the door panel.

    Step 5: Install your speaker

    As you can see on the Mazdaspeed6, a 5.25" driver is stock with the Bose system. You can replace it with most 5.25" aftermarket drivers (remove blue screws), or you can install a typical 6x8/5x7" driver (remove red screws). A 6x9" driver will not fit.

    Step 6: Reinstall door panel

    The steps are pretty much the reverse except you need to make sure all your clips are intact. Use your wire cutters to remove any clips that didn't come off the door and put them back on the door panel before replacing it. If you break some, check your local auto parts store for replacements. The panel will vibrate/rattle if you don't have all of them.

    Also, while you are looking at the back of the door panel, check out the plastic ring around the speaker grill opening. If this comes in contact with your new speakers it may damage them. Your best bet is to remove the ring with a utility knife and place a layer or two of closed-cell foam around your speaker before reinstalling the door panel. Don't worry about your warranty/ dealer tech is going to pull the door panels off to see if you did this.

    Part 2: Sound Deadening

    1 roll of raammat (if applied sparingly) for all doors
    2 yards of ensolite (ditto)

    Additional Tools:
    10mm deep socket wrench or regular socket with extension

    Step 1: Remove Window

    Find this access panel on the inner door skin and pop it off with your flat blade screw driver (boy that little guy comes in handy).

    If you followed my steps above, go back and re-attach the wiring harness for the door panel. Now lower the door until you see the bolt.

    Use the 10mm ratchet to loosen the bolt. Use your wire cutters or needle nose pliers to grab a hold of the bolt and pull it out without dropping it. (You are allowed to drop it this time, but this is just practice for when you reinstall it which point dropping it will be a PITA! Note: The kid's game Operation comes to mind)

    Now you can push the window up with your hands and tape it into place.
    Note, the front window has two bolts and can be removed completely with ease. Perhaps you should grab some window tint while you're at it.

    Step 2: Remove the door hinge assembly

    Using your flat blade screwdriver, if it is small enough, pull the center clip out toward you and pull up on the knob. This will release the bottom of the hinge and it will fall out. Don't pull to hard...if you've got the clip pulled out properly it doesn't require much force. I repeate, pull the clip in the center OUT, don't push it IN.

    Disconnect the cables by just pulling them out toward you.

    Step 3: Remove the various bolts and stuff

    Start with this do-dad. Remove the phillips screw, disconnect the harness, and push the box up a little to unclip the bottom. Remember that clip when you go to reinstall the panel later.

    This bolt has to come out too. It is connected to the window guide.

    Next, remove all the 10mm bolts around the perimeter of the panel. Don't touch the ones in the center except the one I pointed out above.

    Finally, give the panel a pull and it should break loose. You'll have to move it up and down a little to get the window hardware out. And what a pretty sight it is!

    Note that I left the remaining wiring harness connected and just pushed the panel into the car to get it out of the way.

    Step 4: Apply sound deadening

    I added a layer of Raammat to the sections of large sheet metal. You don't have to go overboard, just enough to deaden the panel. Don't forget the bottom and inside edges but be sure not to block any holes that are used to re-attach the panel.

    On top of that, I added a layer of ensolite. Make sure the edges are secured well with spray glue. Again, a little goes a long way. Make sure to cover behind the speaker and get any large areas of sheet metal.

    Also add some deadener to the plastic panel (front and back) but again, stay away from the sides until you have it back in place. Wires like to vibrate so I make sure they are secure with small strips.

    And add some to the back of the door panel too! Around the speaker opening and across joining panels are most important. That's where rattles start.

    Well, I got you this far, I hope you can figure out how it all goes back together again.

  2. #2
    Registered Member LBV's Avatar

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Brampton, ON, Canada
    Nice job!!
    2007 White MazdaSpeed 6 sold ... new wheels = G8 GXP manual.

  3. #3
    Mazdaspeed Approved X 3 Rainman's Avatar

    2006 Black Mica MS6 GT + 2007 MS3 (2003.5 Yellow MSP = retired)

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Great write-up C!

    Current Rides:
    10 WRX STi
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    Previous Rides:
    06 Black MS6 (sad to see it go!)
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    Other non-Mazda crap

  4. #4
    Registered Member MississippiSpd6's Avatar

    06 Speed6 GT

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Awesome! thank you for the detailed how-to!

  5. #5
    Registered Member young6er's Avatar


    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    San Antonio
    I wish i saw this 2 years ago, i could never find out how to take off those wire cables.

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