Forge Motorsport Bypass Valve?

What are the performance gains like? Thanks for the clips!

With the AEM there is definately a better throttle response. It seems like there is more power throughout the rev range. Also, I think it minimized turbo lag slightly - or at least lets the engine breathe better enough.

Either way, it makes a noticeable difference.
 
What are the performance gains like? Thanks for the clips!

You are welcome. Its good to get a chance to contribute for once here!

For which, the Forge BPV or the CP-e Intake?

The Forge BPV does not add max HP or TQ. If the stock BPV leaks, as people on this board have suggested, it should increase acceleration. I am still new to Forced Induction fun, so I really can't explain it well. But for sure, Leaking boost=bad news.

Also, if we ever go crazy and replace the turbo or somehow get more boost from stock (Standback, chip tuning, ect), we can tune the Forge BPV to handle that increase in boost (using the colored springs/inserts).

The CP-e Xcel Intake is dyno proven to add 8+ HP and TQ.

BTW, Those stock dyno #'s seem low to me... Anybody dyno a FWD yet? I will probably get attacked by the searchmonkeys for not searching first, but a 60-70hp loss? Shockingly high.
 
The stock turbo is already over worked. I wouldn't up the boost on it but the standback should help it do it's best and help tune for a larger one.
 
Horsepower at the crank is always more....thats whats advertised. By the time the power goes through the transmission...through the gears and down to the wheels it has lost a lot of power. I forget the percentage loss, but any how, the horsepower on a dyno like the one they use will give you wheel horsepower (whp) which will always be less than at the crank or advertised horsepower, in this case 244 hp.
 
Normal loss through an autotragic is about 20% for FWD/RWD. AWD could be more like 25%.
 
Normal loss through an autotragic is about 20% for FWD/RWD. AWD could be more like 25%.

Agreed. Thats why I am saying 28% is horrible. I don't know if CP-e used a FWD or AWD, but I though I read somewhere they were using a FWD. Maybe not... I hope not.

Any FWD dyno's??? Links please, my searches are comming up with a bunch of nothing.
 
What do the different springs/ adding spacers do? I just got my forge today. It has the yellow spring already installed..

There are no instructions lol. Although its pretty simple... i'd still like to know what the springs do.
 
What do the different springs/ adding spacers do? I just got my forge today. It has the yellow spring already installed..

There are no instructions lol. Although its pretty simple... i'd still like to know what the springs do.

This is interesting because in post number 9, they said they got theirs w/ the blue spring installed...
 
Well after switching out AEM to the CP-E intake and switching the stock valve with the Forge, here are some thoughts: (disclaimer: I only did some city driving, ~ 30 minutes worth, no high speed revs, maybe 4k max)

I didn't see any noticeable differences in terms of power, but I wasn't really looking for it - just casually driving.

The stock valve leaks boost like crazy, which I would think would lead to a power gain, but I dunno. With the Forge it got rid of a ton of wsssh and psssh all through the rev range.

The Forge sounds cool. It does make a noticeable pssh sound, alot more than the stock valve. I don't see any need to buy a HKS or Turbosmart valve, but I'm no expert in terms of the difference between these valves, especially if you are doing extensive mods.

The CP-E intake is pretty easy to install, it does take roughly 1-1.5 hours.
AEM vs CP-e: no noticeable difference in power. The AEM is a good bit louder though, especially if you hover around 2-3k, you'll get a lot of turbo sucking sounds.

For the Forge, the springs are progressively stiffer. Red the stiffest and blue the softest, with yellow in the middle. I'm no turbo expert so I don't really know what the difference in stiffness means.

I'm waiting on the intercooler, its on backorder.
 
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How long did it take to get to you? And I would like to hear your thoughts as well on the quality, noticeable improvements etc.. It would all be greatly appreciated! Gosh I just can't wait any longer.

I will be selling my AEM intake if you want to buy one thats been used about a month. I need to repackage it and take pictures and all that stuff to put it up here. I'll do that tomorrow or Friday. If you are thinking about buying one new, I bought mine from pracing.com - it took like a week though because they were on backorder... but I have a suspicion they don't carry much in stock and simply order it whenever you place an order.
 
Yes I would much rather buy from someone that already has it, but it would have to be COD or something other than paypal.
 
For the Forge, the springs are progressively stiffer. Red the stiffest and blue the softest, with yellow in the middle. I'm no turbo expert so I don't really know what the difference in stiffness means.

Just so nobody is further confused by this, the stiffness order is:

Red - Stiffest spring
Blue
Yellow - Weakest spring

Forge also has a Green spring that is even weaker than the yellow, but we boost too much for it to be of any use to us....

If you want more info, Forge has an ok website at www.forgemotorsport.com and they respond quickly to email inquiries.
 
Wow I compared all the springs by pushing them in the housing and I swore the yellow was stiffer than the blue. I'll check the forge website out.

edit: sweet pdf file. thanks a bunch. I think I need the blue spring, the yellow does seem to be "dumping boost" as they call it too easily. If you barely let off the gas it pssssssh's like crazy. But, I don't really know anything about turbo chargers and how they work, it just seems/sounds that way to me :)

I put in the blue with 1 spacer on top of the spring (do you put them on top of the spring or on the bottom? lol)... just from compressing the springs manually the blue and yellow feel REALLY similar, while the red is definately way stiffer than the other two. Gonna test if it drives any different tomorrow.
 
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I think the spacers should go underneath the spring, its less likely that you would lose it the next time you change it around. I must have switched the yellow for the blue, then spacers, ect 10 times before I decided the blue w/ no spacers it the best (The way mine came from Forge... lol).... But it shouldn't really matter what side you put it on, they are just to compact the spring and make it stiffer.

Funny that yours came stock w/ the yellow... I even emailed Forge after receiving mine asking them witch spring for the CX-7, they said blue OR maybe yellow(?), which ever was the weakest that held max boost.

Hopefully I will get the DaskHawk today and sometime over the long weekend I can play with it to find out which setup works best. I think I will be able to tell by the peak boost (amount or if it maintains that amount for say a passing situation on highway), but I might be wrong. I am, like you, still learning the way the turbo setup works.
 
From the Forge website:
Valve Spring color coding

Green - 5-15 PSI

Yellow - 15-23 PSI

Blue - 23-30 PSI

Red - 30 + PSI

The above figures are estimates only and should only be considered as a guideline
 
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