Headlights dimming/rough idle

L

Lil Freek

Member
:
'01 pro lx-t
Alright.. this is a huge series of problems with my car. I'm trying to get it figured out without putting the whole thing up on a lift (Although after today, i might as well of)

I installed the haltech, and other problems have since arisen.

I start the car, and all my electronics dim, hardcore. Figured the alternator was shot - bought a new alternator. Installed the new alternator today, problem persists.
Bought a new terminal connector for the positive terminal as the wire was a little chewed up. Connected the new terminal and it still dimming like nuts.

I disconnected the alternator, completely, and started the car.... no dimming :eek:

Now what part of the alternator harness could be causing me some problems? The starter's been having a few problems since I got the car going, but it obviously works, since the car starts.

Could a short in the starter cause everything to go wonky? I'll probably get under the car and check all the wires on the alternator harness to make sure that everything is good. but is that the only thing that could be causing the problem?
 
hmm ...

this is probably outside of my knowledge range, but from what i remember, people have dimming issues usually got a bit of a fix from installing a nice grounding kit.

seeing as you have some pretty nice audio equipment in there, good case you probably already have in.

but just throwing ideas out.
 
oh.. no audio in the car right now.

only electronics are Haltech and gauges.
It's a constant pulse, which seems to coincide with the rotation of the engine (or the pulsing voltage could jsut be causing the engine to pulse)
 
Got your PM. The alternator doesn't have a "regulator" in the traditional sense of the word. The ECU controls the voltage, which is why you need to leave the stock ECU attached to control it. Now, you can remove the ECU from the loop, but you then need to instal la regulator from a ford ranger or some s***. It's something ford, search around here and you'll find it. I would try that first, then see if it fixes it. Did you remove or unplug your factory coolant temp / MAF or anything? I'll have to check the FSM, but coolant temp and something else are required for the ECU to regulate alt. voltage.
 
the MAF is there... i think the coolant temp sensor is still connected. There's an extra one for the Haltech. I don't even remember where the stock on is.

I'll look at the ford voltage regulator, too... The more I can take out of the hands of Mazda's design, the better.
 
Ya, I'm letting my Haltech control idle, but it's becoming a hassle because I also need to run the A/C then off the haltech, and I can't spare anymore outputs...
 
aye... the haltech SHOULD control my idle... but i'm still trying to figure this out.
I got another ECU to try out... and I've found what the voltage regulator wires are... it was nice weather all weekend, so i didn't make it in the basement to work on the car... hopefully this rain keeps up, so i can justify being in a stuffy basement in the dark.
 
Ya man, if you can spare a PWM output and your Aux-In line, then let the Haltech control your idle for sure. Remember to set it up as a BAC valve and not a stepper motor. I think our BAC valve frequency is around 60Hz.

All of my PWM outputs are used, and so is my aux-in so I can't let the haltech do my idle unless I want to sacrafice something...
 
just checked wires 30 and 53, they're fine. These are apparently the voltage regulator wires.
put in a new ECU, no improvement.

This is starting to piss me off to no end.
I need to find a way to get light underneath the car, and i'll check all the connections on the alternator harness. There's no plugs in teh basement parking, as i found out, today. :S
 
ok... so i'm kinda confused, i thought i had this fixed, and now it's more sporadic...
while replacing the alternator, we noticed the alternator belt is in s**** condition... does anybody know if this sucker could slip a little, causing a voltage problem?

If I redline the car a few times, it seems that the pulsing goes away, until i downshift, jerk the car or something and then the pulsing comes back. jerk the car and redline again, and it goes away again...
the belt squeeks LOUD when i start the car, and every now and again when i'm driving.
 
i'm going to pick up the new belt in an hour, and install it right away.

anybody got any input on the possibility of this being the problem/culprit?
 
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