Twiggy Sticks Install, tuning and results thread

Sleepy said:
it's working again and so is the closed loop. I put a relay in the O2S input and activate it with the auxilliary output to open the O2S circuit and make the PCM go open loop wherever I want it to so I can tune the AFR without worrying about fighting with PCM's closed loop. I need to have the TAS open a bit(1% TPS instead of 2.8% with full overlap), with AAS all the way out to idle well at about 750rpm.

Do you think this is possible for Piggyback users? or standalone only?
 
LordWorm said:
Pretty sure sleepy runs a piggy back unit :)

I do (emanage Ultimate), but the U.S. PCM might not like it (Oz has Mitsubishi OBD I PCM that can be messed around with). Then again, for $5 it might be worth a try.

Also, I'm not getting any replies to this question:
I've searched a bit but can't find: what type of threadlock (if any) is best for the scews in adjustable cam gears?

Concerned, as I've only used medium strength.
 
it's true, they do

wow my set is actually done
hopefully i can post my results/question here soon (eekdance)
 
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shabaka said:
it's true, they do

wow my set is actually done
hopefully i can post my results/question here soon (eekdance)
get ready ;)

the first time it idles it'll give you the fright of your life.... =)

everyone should post up soundclips/vids when they get them in and running..

sleepy: how are yours going now you've backed hte overlap off a tad?
 
Overlap now halfway between NA and FI. Goes fine and just sounds a little grumpy at idle sometimes. The PCM's closed loop is pretty loose, allowing the mixture to get a bit lean as it cycles from about 14.1 to 15.3. I tuned it real accurate and steady when it was permanent open loop (14.6-14.8 while cruising). These cams don't like lean mixtures.

The big overlap probably contributed to the demise of my #1 and #2 engine mounts. I've filled them with epoxy putty while waiting for AWRs.

Any answers for my threadlock question?
 
Sleepy said:
Overlap now halfway between NA and FI. Goes fine and just sounds a little grumpy at idle sometimes. The PCM's closed loop is pretty loose, allowing the mixture to get a bit lean as it cycles from about 14.1 to 15.3. I tuned it real accurate and steady when it was permanent open loop (14.6-14.8 while cruising). These cams don't like lean mixtures.

The big overlap probably contributed to the demise of my #1 and #2 engine mounts. I've filled them with epoxy putty while waiting for AWRs.

Any answers for my threadlock question?
bump the idle up a shade

I could never get mine idling below about 800 with the microtech - just seemed to lack the fidelity required...and now i've got the cams in and microtech in charge of IAC, i have to idle at about a grand.

Trying to find a stand alone IAC circuit to drive the idle control solenoid with better accuracy and faster reaction times so I can get it back down to about 900rpm..

if you are getting stable 750, maybe try running the idle 100rpm or so higher?

threadlock? no idea...i don't run adjustables yet.
:)
 
Dunno how he manages it, but just had another decent listen to AusOrion's car with these in it.....holding a 500rpm idle

sounds like a cross between V8 and 13B....trying to get him to post a vid.
:p
 
Im running AWR Duro 88 front and rear mounts as well as the side mount insert kit. I'll try to take my camera down to the car this afternoon and see what the sound recording quality is like on it.
 
Crazee D said:
Dema mentioned exh lift is quite substantial.
yes, yes it is :)

High lift + monster overlap ftw :p

Pretty sure they munch alot of VTEC (as in the big lobe) cam profiles for size...makes them pretty agro at low RPM and give a wild kick up high.

AusOrion's beast is the "most modded" car with these cams i've had a drive in, with the exception of twiggy's car of course... they appear to REALLY benifit from large exhuast - something I also noticed when running my 3in race pipe at the track.

I guess with me (still) driving around on the stock pipe, i'm getting quite a bit of suffocation with the added lift on the exhaust cam...but i'll get around it soon - we've now got a 14in steel cut off saw - so now we're just waiting on the flanges to be waterjet cut and i'll get the header knocked over with a minimum of fuss.
 
So back on topic...anyone have install advice? Did anyone check lash or did u just drop em in?
 
Crazee D said:
So back on topic...anyone have install advice? Did anyone check lash or did u just drop em in?
i checked my lash, was within acceptable limits.

Remember that the lash won't match factory lash specs, i think on the exhaust cam? because it was designed that way...details somewhere in the GB thread.
 
OK, here is a short video of my car. I took it a few hours ago when I got back from a short run. Please forgive the quality of the video, I took it on my digital camera. The inbuilt microphone isnt the best and it doesnt seem to pick up the bass well at all.

http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z128/orion_3582/?action=view&current=MOV00589.flv

The car holds around 550 rpm with the cams, header, 2.25" exhaust and the stock ECU. You really have to try hard to get it to stall and it is possible only during hard deceleration.

I hope that Lordworm can find a workable solution for the idle under Microtech in the near future cause I want to keep the rythmic "drum beat" that I have now.
 
AusOrion said:
I hope that Lordworm can find a workable solution for the idle under Microtech in the near future cause I want to keep the rythmic "drum beat" that I have now.
working on it now - i have a few leads, i might be able to reduce the "range" that the microtech controls the idle under, so it doesn't try and spit the idle up to max insanity levels when it feels a stall, and doesn't fart arse around when it really needs to....

failing that, i'm trying to find a stand alone idle controler.... might have to make my own yet :\

anyone know how to program PIC's? :p
 
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