Twiggy Sticks Install, tuning and results thread

MZ ZOOM said:
LordWorm where did you get your bigger coils? let me know. the stock coils on the p5 wagon should be the same as the MSP if im not mistaking right?.thanks..
my bigger coils are Bosch HEC715 coils, linked to a microtech x4 direct ignition setup (one coil per cylinder)...its part of my engine management package.

got them from microtech

absolute and total overkill for anything i'll ever do with the car (and absolutely over kill for what anyone is ever likely to do)...but they are pretty cool looking ;)
 
Kansei said:
Raven Hawk.. sorry to be a little off topic, but where did you locate coil packs? I'm not looking forward to paying dealership prices for them and the ones from the napa parts web site (17.99 a piece vs.. hundreds each from Mazda) that a lot of other people went with are no longer available.
Yeah, I didn't get them. I was having a guy order them at Advanced Auto, but he called me today and said that there's a huge back order on our coil packs. The only thing he could do is get me some at stealership prices $122 per pack. I'm not paying $122 per pack, so I'm still looking around.

edit: LW answered my question to him in the post above this one.
 
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you're microtech arent you werx? it'll be your tune. it is a lot harder to keep the idle with these cams over the stock ones, so the tune needs to be even better
 
mazdaspeedwerx - i had to:

a) wire the microtech output so it was in charge of idle control
b) open the throttle plate somewhat (throttle body adjustment hexbolt thingy)
c) tune the microtech's AUX_AIR* functions to give it a target idle of about 900rpm
d) fine tune with the idle adjustment screw

one of the AUX_AIR functions gives you a cold start assist thingy, where by you add more idle control when the water temp is below 45 degrees C

additional idle fuel and timing helped a bunch too

your dyno tuners should be able to help.

your damned lucky you can even get it to stay alive at all.. when i had mine, i had to keep it alive with the throttle until i sorted out my issues :)
 
You can get a lightened flywheel and reduce rotating mass...it'd be a start.

A SpeedCircuit performance head couldn't hurt either. ;)
 
Kooldino said:
You can get a lightened flywheel and reduce rotating mass...it'd be a start.

A SpeedCircuit performance head couldn't hurt either. ;)


hmmm intresting i'll check into it..if money was'nt an issue..id go all out...LOL
 
you could try adjustable cam gears and a few hours on the dyno with a decent tuner... getting the overlap just right for your application will yield the best results (overlap on these are set to a "best guess" for FI and NA dependent on what you bought.... its certainly not 'ideal' for everyone).


Light weight flywheel/pulleys etc are going to let you get to 4000rpm a heck of alot faster...so might be worthwhile getting to give you some of your low end feel back.


Then theres the turbo selection - you need to determine whether the turbo+the cams are working against what you specifically want. Find a turbo which matches the cams and matches your prefered power more correctly - something that spools like a mofo, and spools up hell early would be the go i'd think.


Remember, for FI applications, these are pretty well "race" cams - big time top end power, with alot of it pushed into the high-mid range to top end, as long as the car is DRIVABLE below where the cams "come on"...you should be right - sounds like you are just after a way of getting onto the power a bit quicker in which case lightening things up will certainly help!
 
Well the MSP turbo does spool hella early.. I can get full boost* by 2300RPMs.


*full boost = 7-8ish psi depending on temperature outside
 
Kansei said:
Well the MSP turbo does spool hella early.. I can get full boost* by 2300RPMs.


*full boost = 7-8ish psi depending on temperature outside
hell early on standard cams....probably not idealy matched to these cams, but having said that, wouldn't change/upgrade the turbo till i'd done the other things mentioned....
:)
 
The only way to really get an "ideal" set of cams for exactly what you want is to talk directly to the maker who has the experience and tell him the performance you want. These were designed initially for NA applications and then adapted as per a best guess for the FI motors thus being the reason they're performing how they are. That said, lightening up the drive train to get the engine to the sweet spot faster is a way to do it or like Kooldino said, a worked head and Intake Manifold if selected properly should bring back some of the low end grunt you're losing. The idea now is to build around those cams and maximize the engine performance off of that. The spool time of the GT25R is very quick, perhaps to flow more air at the same pace you may want to contact MPNick about his turbo upgrade that puts the 28 wheel in the 25 housing allowing more air to be pushed at the same pace...
 
well i was gonna get my stock head ported before i threw in the twiggy cams in..but i was like well i wanted to see how it performs first..so i didnt get the head done..but i did install a PG intake mani/slightly ported when i installed the cams. im also adding some wrx440cc today. i'll play around with my dsm-afc on my laptop this evening and see if it runs any if alittle better. about the timing? i gues im gonna have to look for some adjustables..so when i actually get it in for dyno. i can also get it tuned. like i said...if money was'nt an issue..id buy whatever i need to make this car run like a beast....(lol)
 
lisevolution said:
The only way to really get an "ideal" set of cams for exactly what you want is to talk directly to the maker who has the experience and tell him the performance you want. These were designed initially for NA applications and then adapted as per a best guess for the FI motors thus being the reason they're performing how they are. That said, lightening up the drive train to get the engine to the sweet spot faster is a way to do it or like Kooldino said, a worked head and Intake Manifold if selected properly should bring back some of the low end grunt you're losing. The idea now is to build around those cams and maximize the engine performance off of that. The spool time of the GT25R is very quick, perhaps to flow more air at the same pace you may want to contact MPNick about his turbo upgrade that puts the 28 wheel in the 25 housing allowing more air to be pushed at the same pace...
Cams is cams really, if it works on NA it'll work on turbo - mild NA cams equate to MONSTER turbo cams - thats the problem essentially, if you can call it a problem.

To get the same relative result on turbo as you do with NA, the cams would be half as agressive as they are - they are therefore essentially race cams. Its killed low end and pushed power into the midrange to top end - which is ideal for circuit but makes it a bit lathargic in traffic.

Dialing in the cams to better suite your desired powerband would be ideal, along with flowing the head, and lightening the drive train.

I remember andrew coming up to me after he picked up the order of cams, and the cam guy was flabergasted at how crazy these things are for turbo, and theres potential in them to make A CRAP LOAD of power....but more peak invariably means less low end...

I'd really consider cam gears, get the car on a dyno and dial them in to try and bring the curve back down to something approaching what you like. You can even get them dialed in for 2 settings, and just scratch a mark in the cam gears so you can easilly dial them back up for max power/circuit/dyno destruction.

MZ ZOOM: i understand your pain with money - i need to come up with some big wads of green folding stuff to do what i want to do - my engine builder is champing at the bit to get started, but cashflow is always a problem - just potter away at it slowly, get the things you can afford that you think will help, get it tuned, maybe your tuner can put a bit more ignition timing in down low to give it a bit more perk, and then save for the other bits and pieces - i see no reason why you can't make it into a beast, seems you've got most of the stuff sorted out already :)
 
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LordWorm said:
Cams is cams really, if it works on NA it'll work on turbo - mild NA cams equate to MONSTER turbo cams - thats the problem essentially, if you can call it a problem.

What I was saying was that the only way to get exactly what you want out of a cam is to have it cut for exactly what you want. These were designed to boost top-end power and in the process diminish some of the low-end. They were designed for an NA application and ported to FI so the same effects are occuring though with more drastic improvements on FI vs. NA.
 
I get alot of low end torque. went to the track this past weekend and couldnt get any traction 1-3 and if it hooked up in 4th no grip there either. my best time was 14.7. which was really dissapointing. my best time last year was a 14.1. more tuning and better tires are in the plans. almost bought slicks today but couldnt find my wheel lock.
 
mazdaspeedwerx said:
I get alot of low end torque. went to the track this past weekend and couldnt get any traction 1-3 and if it hooked up in 4th no grip there either. my best time was 14.7. which was really dissapointing. my best time last year was a 14.1. more tuning and better tires are in the plans. almost bought slicks today but couldnt find my wheel lock.
so you are making more power, but can't keep it on the track?
 
bump, anyone else get these installed? Anyone have updates on how their car adjusted to these cams, feelings, thoughts, dyno's etc....
 
car pulls HARD over 4K...i'm catless with a side exit exhaust, sounds v8-ish...pretty bad ass. i like them. wish i had some for my msp.
 
Topher said:
car pulls HARD over 4K...i'm catless with a side exit exhaust, sounds v8-ish...pretty bad ass. i like them. wish i had some for my msp.

Cam gears baby! Man I can't wait for mine ...
 
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