Twiggy Sticks Install, tuning and results thread

Sleepy said:
I don't have any idle problems now :) My idle control was messed up before the cams went in, but with some more fiddling around, it's working again and so is the closed loop. I put a relay in the O2S input and activate it with the auxilliary output to open the O2S circuit and make the PCM go open loop wherever I want it to so I can tune the AFR without worrying about fighting with PCM's closed loop. I need to have the TAS open a bit(1% TPS instead of 2.8% with full overlap), with AAS all the way out to idle well at about 750rpm.
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the microtech doesnt have closed loop fuel control so i cant use this solution.
I need to get an input on my accessories to trigger idle up...i'll get onto that one day when i'm not feeling so lazy :)

you considering pushing back for full overlap now you've got it working?

Oh twiggy cams were instrumental in assisting my car pull down a new PB, 15.206@89.82mph :) say goodbye to another 3 tenths of a second :)
 
you considering pushing back for full overlap now you've got it working?


Nah, can't be bothered pulling it apart again(haven't cut the cover for access) and it sounds too radical for me anyway. Besides that, I'm starting to put together a turbo kit and would just have to put it back again.
 
LordWorm said:
the microtech doesnt have closed loop fuel control so i cant use this solution.
I need to get an input on my accessories to trigger idle up...i'll get onto that one day when i'm not feeling so lazy :)

you considering pushing back for full overlap now you've got it working?

Oh twiggy cams were instrumental in assisting my car pull down a new PB, 15.206@89.82mph :) say goodbye to another 3 tenths of a second :)
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I say a little traction controle and you'd be close to the 14s!!
 
Hughes412 said:
I say a little traction controle and you'd be close to the 14s!!
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Traction isn't the issue - Willowbank raceway is one of the top drag strips in the world in terms of traction, and when I am on my game, i don't spin the wheels at all (in that run, i cut a PB 60 foot, absolutely no wheel spin off the line at launch rpm of 4150 according to the datalog)

Power is whats needed... I did notice, with the open 3in side exhaust ghetto exhaust we did, that there is a DEFINATE flat spot just below where the cams kick in...i think this is sleepy's ignition timing thingy rearing its head..i'll drop some more timing in around this mark and see if i can't get it to not flat out at that point (its only noticable because i'm absolutely smashing the car through the rev range...but its probably worth a 10th on its own in the end - and by all accounts it should be fixable). Once the cams get to their sweet spot, its hard to hang on in first....early in the day i was rattling off the rev limiter in first before i knew what hit me! I got it pretty sweet towards the end of the day though, and was pretty happy with the all round result.

14s will happen soon though :) real soon :)

ultimate goal is....secret :p - a few people know what i've got planned....lets just say i've been speaking with a race engine builder ;)
 
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First off, you can post me as officially having my Twiggy Stix installed. They were installed over a week ago and I'm finally starting to gun it. Since I'm in an NA Auto, I wasn't sure how well they'd work for me. But my impressions seem to be the same as everybody else's.

Down low, they may be slightly more sluggish (up to 4000), but then they start to take off. Before I had the cams in my REAL power band started at 3500 and went strong to 5000 rpm. Now my power band starts at 4000 and is very strong especially between 5000 and 6000 and keeps going to redline. When I threw the Stix in, I also put on a ported/polished intake with VTCS removed. The combination has made the car great when trying to pass. I just need more torque down low so that I can have this feeling through the whole power band.

I also installed some other things on the same day, most notably an intake throttle spacer and Hotwires, but I think that I'm going to rip the spacers out because they're more trouble than they're worth. Because of the spacers, I'm idling too high, my cruise control is dead and things didn't seem to fit properly (specifically my AEM SRAM intake). I'll be removing the spacers this weekend and hopefully that will take care of most of my problems. However, there is still some loping on the on the idle that it sounds like won't go away with the removal of the spacers. I haven't decided if I want to apply the fix for that yet or just ignore it until I put a Microtech in.
 
yashart_mp3 said:
For those of you who have them installed, was it worth the wait, money, & hassle?
Click to expand...

It's worth every penny..especially for the turbo applications...LOVE IT!!!!(thumb)
 
engine multi miss fire?

OK long story short...tonite as i went to warm my car up. the check engine light came on...i scanned it and it came up saying that i have engine multi cylinder misfire? could it be my timing? if it was wouldnt it pop up right after i installed the twiggy cams? or could it be that i need to get cam gears to adjust the cams due to it opening the valves longer..causing the mis-fire?? oh and the car runs fine...?? wierd...NEED FEEDBACK A.S.A.P (hand)
 
P0300? Any other codes? Could just be a coil that randomly decided to take a s***, unless the idle is so lumpy that it is actually misfiring. Can you look at freeze frame data to see when it set?
 
Fudgie said:
P0300? Any other codes? Could just be a coil that randomly decided to take a s***, unless the idle is so lumpy that it is actually misfiring. Can you look at freeze frame data to see when it set?
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yup P0300 is the code. it could be that the cams are so lumpy. im not sure if it is a coil going out. it would run like s*** if a coil went out. i havent looked at the freeze frame on the scan tool..i'll have to go back and look. i also have ngk 1 step colder plugs. so i dont know if that will have an effect on it. since the temp here has dropped back down to the mid 30's...before that the temps were above 50 degrees and it never set a code. im gonna pull the plugs today and look at it.
 
mine are in finally...drove it for the first time yesterday...yeah, the power is above 4K for us n/a guys...it DOES feel crappy below the 4K.

i haven't really gotten "on" it yet...i wanted to wait a few days to let my ecu learn the change.
 
MZ ZOOM - How many miles do you have on your car? I got the same codes, but I was getting those codes before I put the stix in. There is a known problem with coil packs getting a little frisky around 70k miles. I'm changing out my coil packs this weekend. I also got a "high idle' code, but that really isn't surprising seeing as I idle at 1500, but I think it's from some spacers that I put in on the same day as the cams.

Topher - Give it about a week and then you should really like the pull above 4k rpm. Still a little sluggish down low, regardless, but the ECU has really adjusted for mine over 4k. It pulls pretty damn good for a 4-banger AT.
 
MZ ZOOM said:
yup P0300 is the code. it could be that the cams are so lumpy. im not sure if it is a coil going out. it would run like s*** if a coil went out. i havent looked at the freeze frame on the scan tool..i'll have to go back and look. i also have ngk 1 step colder plugs. so i dont know if that will have an effect on it. since the temp here has dropped back down to the mid 30's...before that the temps were above 50 degrees and it never set a code. im gonna pull the plugs today and look at it.
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I have no problems with missfire, but I do have much bigger coils then most.

If it is a case of a missfire at idle, consider bumping the idle speed up a little?
 
Topher said:
mine are in finally...drove it for the first time yesterday...yeah, the power is above 4K for us n/a guys...it DOES feel crappy below the 4K.

i haven't really gotten "on" it yet...i wanted to wait a few days to let my ecu learn the change.
Click to expand...

Give the car 500miles or so, then do a full ecu reset and drive the car like you stole it...

This may overcome the flatness below 4k..

if you are that worried about it, dial back the overlap and bring the effective powerband down.

These cams pull no worries to 7k+ rpm, as tested on the track by me a couple of weekends ago :) I reckon they'd pull alot more, but i was running out of capability in my exhaust and head, and I didn't want to drop a rod at 7500rpm or something silly :)

You are bound to lose some low end torque, but it can be overcome elsewhere - I know i have a microtech which makes life a little different, but i did not notice any significant reduction in low rpm driveability.

One thing i did notice when running an open exhaust, there is a noticable flat spot at about 5000 to 5250 rpm.... then it seems to "kick" again. I wasn't tuned greatly for the open exhaust, so its probably a flat that can be tuned out, need to see some dyno graphs to make a determination if its actually there or in my head.
 
My car only has 33K on the motor...everything on it is fairly low miles..The car runs great. nothing wrong...it's just odd that almost after 1k driving with the twiggy cams in it...the P0300 code came up. it could be that the coils arent strong enough.. but i'll look into it..i took the plugs out and they were dry and normal looking ...no foul smell..nor carbon on it..i'll rest the ecu and and take it for a drive again..if it comes up again. i'll see what i can do about upgrading the coils. oh and my idle is running at 850rpm...but it idles fine..no code what so ever on the idling. im just thinking that cause of the bigger lumpy lobes. the ecu is kinda going coo koo LOL...
 
MZ ZOOM said:
My car only has 33K on the motor...everything on it is fairly low miles..The car runs great. nothing wrong...it's just odd that almost after 1k driving with the twiggy cams in it...the P0300 code came up. it could be that the coils arent strong enough.. but i'll look into it..i took the plugs out and they were dry and normal looking ...no foul smell..nor carbon on it..i'll rest the ecu and and take it for a drive again..if it comes up again. i'll see what i can do about upgrading the coils. oh and my idle is running at 850rpm...but it idles fine..no code what so ever on the idling. im just thinking that cause of the bigger lumpy lobes. the ecu is kinda going coo koo LOL...
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could be that with all the extra fuel and all the extra air you are pushing in by virtue of the cams, the stock coils are not big enough to set off the explosion - or are setting off the explosion wrongly.....????

bigger crazier coils are the go :)

save yourself some spark fade at high rpm too... bit more top end loving for the MZ ZOOM machine :)
 
Raven Hawk.. sorry to be a little off topic, but where did you locate coil packs? I'm not looking forward to paying dealership prices for them and the ones from the napa parts web site (17.99 a piece vs.. hundreds each from Mazda) that a lot of other people went with are no longer available.
 
Kansei said:
Raven Hawk.. sorry to be a little off topic, but where did you locate coil packs? I'm not looking forward to paying dealership prices for them and the ones from the napa parts web site (17.99 a piece vs.. hundreds each from Mazda) that a lot of other people went with are no longer available.
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I have a pair of my old stockies i think (i hope they didn't get chucked when i moved house)..i can have a look for you.

One of them has damage to the casing (blistering...) - not sure if there is any internal damage but this was the main reason i upgraded...

however, if i do have them, and you do want a set and are happy with a bit of damage to the casing, you can have em for the cost of postage from here.
 
LordWorm said:
I have no problems with missfire, but I do have much bigger coils then most.

If it is a case of a missfire at idle, consider bumping the idle speed up a little?
Click to expand...

LordWorm where did you get your bigger coils? let me know. the stock coils on the p5 wagon should be the same as the MSP if im not mistaking right?.thanks..
 
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