Mazdaspeed OEM Wastegate actuator = $$$$$$$$

Yeah its just two small nuts and the clip holding it on. I did it without taking the turbo off the car but it was a pain to do.
 
Yeah its just two small nuts and the clip holding it on. I did it without taking the turbo off the car but it was a pain to do.
There's no way I'd try it with the turbo on the car... I had to take mine off to put a new gasket on Monday and I had it off and back on in an hour, so I don't see why you wouldn't just take it off.
 
Didn't wana deal with coolant. I hate coolant with a passion. I would say it took me about an hour to replace it with it still on the car. All I did was unbolt the manifold from the block and pull it out a little so I had enough space to work back there.
 
Didn't wana deal with coolant. I hate coolant with a passion. I would say it took me about an hour to replace it with it still on the car. All I did was unbolt the manifold from the block and pull it out a little so I had enough space to work back there.

Coolant from where? Lol I am still in the process of learning all this stuff!
 
Coolant from where? Lol I am still in the process of learning all this stuff!
The turbo is oil and water cooled. The steel tubes coming from the turbo are the coolant lines and the braided one is the oil line.
 
Ah! So if I were to remove the turbo, what would I have to do about the coolant? Also, if the WGA is connected to the turbo would it come out attached when I remove it?
 
Ah! So if I were to remove the turbo, what would I have to do about the coolant? Also, if the WGA is connected to the turbo would it come out attached when I remove it?
Drain it... Yes.
 
There's a drain plug on the bottom of your radiator. Your still gona have some coolant come out when you take it apart tho.
 
Awesome! Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help! But just to double check, when I remove the turbo, the WGA will come out with it?
 
Awesome! Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help! But just to double check, when I remove the turbo, the WGA will come out with it?
Yes. It has two 10mm nuts and a retaining clip at the wastegate itself.
To remove the manifold you're going to need...
10mm socket/box end- (manifold heatshield/wastegate actuator/condensor fan assembly)
12mm socket (manifold studs/nuts)
12mm box end (manifold studs/nuts)
6mm allen (coolant/oil lines clamp)
14mm socket (j-pipe to s-pipe nuts)
6" extension
pliers (clamps for hoses assuming they're the factory clamps)
PB Blaster (or other penetrating oil)
 
Yes. It has two 10mm nuts and a retaining clip at the wastegate itself.
To remove the manifold you're going to need...
10mm socket/box end- (manifold heatshield/wastegate actuator/condensor fan assembly)
12mm socket (manifold studs/nuts)
12mm box end (manifold studs/nuts)
6mm allen (coolant/oil lines clamp)
14mm socket (j-pipe to s-pipe nuts)
6" extension
pliers (clamps for hoses assuming they're the factory clamps)
PB Blaster (or other penetrating oil)

Wow, this seems a lot more complicated then I expected! Especially since I am unexperienced with this kinda stuff! Lol
 
Wow, this seems a lot more complicated then I expected! Especially since I am unexperienced with this kinda stuff! Lol
It's really easy actually. I'm just giving you the list so you know exactly what you need. I've had the manifold off a dozen times and the engine out almost as many on these cars and like I said, I can remove it and reinstall it in an hour. Even being unexperienced, I would imagine this wouldn't take more than two hours. The tools I lised come in even the most basic tool sets.
 
Thanks a ton guys! I'm just looking for the easiest/least complicated way of replacing it! Haha
 
Holy dead thread, Batman! Anyone still out there? All stock..I replaced my actuator. I had to extend the rod at least 3/4" inch to reach the gates arm. Feels like I'm still getting fuel cut as before but now I can ease into High RPMs. Is my gate not opening fully? I need a boost gauge too...
 
Which WGA did you buy? It may have a stiffer spring that is raising the boost. The wastegate won't open until the car hits enough boost to push the spring and open the flap.
 
It's the adjustable ATP unit.
Is fuel cut an on/off thing or is is in gradations?
I can floor it in 5th at 4000 and it does a softer version of that bucking l
 
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