How To: Boost Pressure Tester

Ok, through chasing phantom boost leaks for 2 weeks, I came to a decisive conclusion:

1. Make sure if you boost a N/A protege, you get vacuum clams for ALL of your vacuum and boost lines. If you don't do this, you can may waste time down the line chasing vacuum leaks, because you have lost power, or are getting inconsistant boost power (one day strong, the next not). I was looking at this all wrong. I was all worried about my hoses popping off, but the thing I didn't consider are very small boost leaks from unsecured hoses, when the lines seem like they are on tight. This turned out to be my issue here recently, as there were a few lines still without clamps, and I was loosing power. So I have been putting clamps on all my vac/boost lines, and my response is back! My theory on what was happening is kinda 2-fold:

A. With the E6X I have been having the famed ignition pop with my RX-7 injectors. When the key is turned to the on position, before cranking, there is an explosion/pop sound, and the boost gauge spikes to 20 PSI instantly, and then to 0. This is a lot of shock on vacuum lines, and over time, small leaks can occur where there are not clamps, or lines could even rupture if they are not strong enough. I am using Samco silicone lines for all but 2 of my vacuum lines currently, and this will change soon.

B. To compound this, the harsh conditions under the hood...like heat! Yes, heat causes things to expand, and no matter how good the seal is when you first connect your vac lines, heat and pressure of higher boosting will change the seal. This is just the heat outside the engine. Now lets look at the fact that boosting, by nature, heats up air. Period. This hot air enters your boost and vac lines. This hot air is under pressure.

Bottom line is that the MSP's come with all their vac/boost lines clamped for a reason. Just some food for thought.
 
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