Pictures of spark plug replacement

Z

ZoomFive

:
SOLD 2002 Protege5; Current 2008 CX-9 Grand Touring
Hi.

Does anyone have picture of how the wires and plugs connect?

My old cars used to be simple... plug screws into the surface of the engine and them boot of the wire slips over that?

I was going to do it, but realized I had never seen this before. How does the plug screw into the engine and how does the wire connect to the plug?

Need some pics.

Thanks,
ZoomFive
 
Might I ask what your age is? Just curious, because I have a friend that works on flatheads.

To answer your question, the plugs are deep into the engine through the holes on top (valve cover).

....and you're thinking of turbocharging?
 
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altspace said:
Might I ask what your age is? Just curious, because I have a friend that works on flatheads.

To answer your question, the plugs are deep into the engine through the holes on top (valve cover).

....and you're thinking of turbocharging?
Click to expand...

With the cars I have had and everything else life has brought, I haven't needed to work or do maintenance on a car in about 10 years.

Although it is a basic question, what is the sequence for replacing a plug on a P5?

I need a pic because I am having trouble visualizing the wire and how to plug in the wire if the plug to screwed into a deep recessed hole.



My responses to your 2 questions...
No... no longer thinking about turboing, but not for lack of desire or knowledge.

As for age, let's say my first car was in the 80s, but it was a 1970s car.

If anyone can direct me to some pics or describe, I would appreciate it.

ZoomFive (peep)
 
The coilpacks sit on top of 2 spark plugs, the wires go into the other 2.

Unscrew the coilpacks from the valve cover and pull them out carefully, then pull the plug wires off the other 2.

It's no more difficult than any other car you may have worked on.
 
thrasher said:
Unscrew the coilpacks from the valve cover and pull them out carefully, then pull the plug wires off the other 2.
Click to expand...

Carefully because the rubber boot at the bottom of the coil pack is fragile. If it tears little bits can fall back down that deep narrow hole and they can be very challenging to remove.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123616443&highlight=plug+hook

You'll need a fairly long extension for your socket set to reach down to the plug. They don't cost much though. I also had to use masking tape to more firmly attach the the sparkplug socket to the extension. The first plug I put in held onto the socket more firmly than did the extension to the socket - which was not a happy moment.
 
pasadena_commut said:
Carefully because the rubber boot at the bottom of the coil pack is fragile. If it tears little bits can fall back down that deep narrow hole and they can be very challenging to remove.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123616443&highlight=plug+hook

You'll need a fairly long extension for your socket set to reach down to the plug. They don't cost much though. I also had to use masking tape to more firmly attach the the sparkplug socket to the extension. The first plug I put in held onto the socket more firmly than did the extension to the socket - which was not a happy moment.
Click to expand...

Losing the socket to the plug had occurred to me.

So, how are you able to plug the spark plug wire onto the terminal if the plug is recessed in a hole? That's what I am trying to visualize. On my other cars it was easy access... to the terminal was above the surface of the engine and I could just slip that boot on.

Is the wire's assembly going down to the terminal so rigid that I can screw the plug in and then push down on the wire from above until the boot clicks over the terminal?

ZoomFive
 
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Here is the only engine pic I have at work. I'll try to get a pic of the plug wires too.

<img src="http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/2189000-2189999/2189024_6_full.jpg">

The wires are cut to length. So they pretty much only go on one way. Unless you got the universal kind that you have to cut.
<img src="http://images1.drivewire.com/live/F1020126506OES.JPG">
The middle part is hard. You push down on the top part and it snaps in place. I hope this helps answer you question. If not let me know.
 
Hughes412 said:
Here is the only engine pic I have at work. I'll try to get a pic of the plug wires too.

2189024_6_full.jpg


The wires are cut to length. So they pretty much only go on one way. Unless you got the universal kind that you have to cut.
F1020126506OES.JPG

The middle part is hard. You push down on the top part and it snaps in place. I hope this helps answer you question. If not let me know.
Click to expand...

Thanks Hughes412 and thanks all.

Seeing the pic and knowing that the middle is hard, it's clearer to me now. Now I know what I am tugging on and what needs to be done to get the wire onto the new plug.

I was concerned about breaking the wire inside the hole when removing and/or not being able to get the wire back onto the terminal after the new plugs were screwed in because it was soft.
 
Well it is very common that the boot on the bottom of the wire (the part that goes around the body of the plug) breaks off and stays on the plug. If this happens you will need one or 2 things to get it out. First are long skinny needle nose pliers. You'll have to tear the grommet off it the plug before you can get it out. Once you have the grommet tore up I have found the easiest way to get all of the little peaces out is to get the shop vac out and suck it out. I imagine that any vacuum would work, but I have a big one.
Vacuum that is!
 
Hughes412 said:
Well it is very common that the boot on the bottom of the wire (the part that goes around the body of the plug) breaks off and stays on the plug. If this happens .
Click to expand...

If this happens and you have only the one car see if you can get it all put back together so that it still runs. Then obtain the replacement coil. THEN fix the problem. If you clean out the mess you'll have no boot on the bottom of the coil/wire when you're done. I don't know if the car will drive that way. The dealer may or may not have a coil in stock, and even if they do, it's $$$. See the link to the previous thread for some price points.
 
Hughes412 said:
Well it is very common that the boot on the bottom of the wire (the part that goes around the body of the plug) breaks off and stays on the plug. If this happens you will need one or 2 things to get it out. First are long skinny needle nose pliers. You'll have to tear the grommet off it the plug before you can get it out. Once you have the grommet tore up I have found the easiest way to get all of the little peaces out is to get the shop vac out and suck it out. I imagine that any vacuum would work, but I have a big one.
Vacuum that is!
Click to expand...

If it's common for the boot to break where it connects to the plug terminal or under the coil, should I have new wires on hand? That would suck to have to change wires everytime you change plugs.

If the boot separates from the wire and stays on the, it's game over for that wire. That's why I was so concerned. With the old style, you can actually grab the boot and not be tugging by the wire.

ZoomFive
 
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ZoomFive said:
If it's common for the boot to break where it connects to the plug terminal or under the coil, should I have new wires on hand? That would suck to have to change wires everytime you change plugs.

If the boot separates from the wire and stays on the, it's game over for that wire. That's why I was so concerned. With the old style, you can actually grab the boot and not be tugging by the wire.

ZoomFive
Click to expand...

I say if you only have one car, yes go ahead and get the wires just incase. If you have a second car then no. But if you get them and don't use them you can always take them back. Oh and there is some lube that you can get to help with the instalation and it helps keep the wire on the plug after you've changed them. Some times the wire will pop off.
 
OK-Got a question for anyone that can answer it that applies pretty directly to this thread...
I changed plugs, and on the last plug wire, what they describe above is what happend. the inside piece broke off and stuck to the plug.

I got the piece off with some forcepts, swapped out the last plug, and pretty much just jammed the piece that came off back up into the boot to the same level it looked on the other wire. put it all back together and thecar runs perfectly.

2 questions:
-since the car started and ran perfectly (actually much better than in the past thanks to those extended reach plugs) do I even need a new wire? [I know i'll eventually have to get one, but for the time being]
-should I worry about any pieces that possibly may have come out of or off of the boot (no exterior pieces were damaged at all) in the chamber
? I didn't see this thread until after I had reassembled and driven, and didn't use a vaccum to suck anything that may have been down there out...

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks
 
scott42 said:
OK-Got a question for anyone that can answer it that applies pretty directly to this thread...
I changed plugs, and on the last plug wire, what they describe above is what happend. the inside piece broke off and stuck to the plug.

I got the piece off with some forcepts, swapped out the last plug, and pretty much just jammed the piece that came off back up into the boot to the same level it looked on the other wire. put it all back together and thecar runs perfectly.

2 questions:
-since the car started and ran perfectly (actually much better than in the past thanks to those extended reach plugs) do I even need a new wire? [I know i'll eventually have to get one, but for the time being]
-should I worry about any pieces that possibly may have come out of or off of the boot (no exterior pieces were damaged at all) in the chamber
? I didn't see this thread until after I had reassembled and driven, and didn't use a vaccum to suck anything that may have been down there out...

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...

If the car runs fine personally I wouldnt worry about it and just drive on. As far as worring about peices that may or may not of broken off.... well you already started the car and i assume drove it around so If you didnt hear any noises out of the norm for starting the car the first time with the new plugs. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
If I understand you right, a part of the wire that connects to the plug broke off and you DID NOT replace it (the caps are to make sure I got it right). If this is correct they YES you most definately want to change the wire/wires.
What will end up happening is the wire will start to arck against the inside of the head instead of going to the plug, trust me you don't want that.

Will it hurt your motor, short term no, but long term yes. And you'll just in up fouling the plug and having to replace it also.
So yes get new wires.


scott42 said:
OK-Got a question for anyone that can answer it that applies pretty directly to this thread...
I changed plugs, and on the last plug wire, what they describe above is what happend. the inside piece broke off and stuck to the plug.

I got the piece off with some forcepts, swapped out the last plug, and pretty much just jammed the piece that came off back up into the boot to the same level it looked on the other wire. put it all back together and thecar runs perfectly.

2 questions:
-since the car started and ran perfectly (actually much better than in the past thanks to those extended reach plugs) do I even need a new wire? [I know i'll eventually have to get one, but for the time being]
-should I worry about any pieces that possibly may have come out of or off of the boot (no exterior pieces were damaged at all) in the chamber
? I didn't see this thread until after I had reassembled and driven, and didn't use a vaccum to suck anything that may have been down there out...

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Huges and everyone else. That's pretty much what I was thinking; good for now to get to work, but putting new wires in asap. Thanks.
BTW-those extended reach NKG's suggested by THEMAN are spectacular for an inprovement in smoothness!

Anyone have any suggestions on new wires? the cheaper the better...i've tried the old school sparkco ones...those are the ones that broke...I'm thinking a revert back to stock may be in order (if I can find them) ;)
 
I would say stock are fine for a stock N/A car will stock coils. If you were running like an MSD ignition then yea you'd want a thicker wire. But from what I seen and read, our wires and plugs are good enough for 300whp and still get nice gas milage. So I wouldn't spend the money.
 
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