DaRkCotTon
Member
- :
- Mazda 3i Touring 2.0L
i tried searching in the forums, but nothing seem to come up, maybe i was seraching with the wrong keywords, but can someone tell me the difference between the two brakes?
difference between slotted brakes and drilled brakes
- Thread starter DaRkCotTon
- Start date
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
From my understandign the driled is to save weight and the slotted is to vent off gases and something about glazed pads.
How is it a waist of money. Any thing that is a proven improvement is not a waist. And the slots are for cleaning the glase off of the pads and venting gasses, the holes help clear the dust so that it doen't built up between the pads. They work great and well worth the money.iracemine said:
ahhhh. ok, im only responding in a totaly mild maner man to man situation. any outbursts or threats im gone. ok, lets keep to the stated; show me proven! any time you dilibritly take away braking surface it will increase your braking distance (any contest?). state your contest; ok (gases/dust) on a 2800 pound car REARLY if EVER will you get the pads -yes most likely stock pads- will get to the point to wich they will ignight and flash of as gas (the imediate expansion of a solid to a gas), thus will be vented through the "CROSS_DRILLED" making the pads once again contact the rotors. this will be if EVER arises will be adressed by the slot in the middile of the brake pads that yes is stock___ un belivably 20 high pad enginers in japan designed just for this such a rare daly diven ocurance does happens__ will be taken car of. next is glazed wich is from melting the surface of the pads or changing the property of the meterial of just the face of the pads into which they become "hard and slippery in contact to the rotor". this adressed by the "SLOTTED" rotor! for the instances that you indeed change the property of the pad by super heating them till there glazed, this is a great way to remove the contacting level of pad. however if your not removing the unusable layer of pad your just removing a layer of pad--- in sence waisting a layer of pad. and pushing out dust "the unusable pad material" with the slots.
now dont get me wrong i love my P5 just as much as anyone or maby more than all the peeps here. and i love mods just as much as anyone else. hell i dare you to fine anything stock on my mazda. but what your convaying is that dual blade wipers are going to make this guy faster from getting home from his local pizza joint and obaying all speed limits than the 87 suburban right behind him. DUDE WAST OF MONEY OR JUST HAVING FUN HOPPING UP MY RIDE are entirly subjective thanks love you.
now dont get me wrong i love my P5 just as much as anyone or maby more than all the peeps here. and i love mods just as much as anyone else. hell i dare you to fine anything stock on my mazda. but what your convaying is that dual blade wipers are going to make this guy faster from getting home from his local pizza joint and obaying all speed limits than the 87 suburban right behind him. DUDE WAST OF MONEY OR JUST HAVING FUN HOPPING UP MY RIDE are entirly subjective thanks love you.
Well I have to say I think you're way off. First 90% of the drivers here do not drive normal. I for one (with out my son in the car) like to drive a little harder then most. While these cars most likely will never drive long or hard enough to melt the rotors or set the pads on fire they will cause the pads to glaze over and the excessive heat built up helps heat up the rotors and that will warp them pretty fast. Now if you see the types of roads I drive (and there are lots of people here that car back me up) you'll see that you need more then the stock breaks if you plan on driving lets say spirited. That's were these rotors come in handy. I have 50+k on my pads (which I need to change out soon) and you will not see any glaze or uneven wear or warped rotors. Now if you ask PR54life how his breaks are he'll tell you the shake like hell and we are replacing them this weekend and he doesn't drive half as hard or as much as I do.
So while normal driving might not show any improvement in breaking if you get these rotors. You'll only have to slam on them once to notice the difference.
So while normal driving might not show any improvement in breaking if you get these rotors. You'll only have to slam on them once to notice the difference.
agreed.
my setup (race only): brembo oem replacment rotors/hawk track days pads.
i race at blackhawk and if anyone knows blackhawk they will know that it is a killer on brakes. i have never had my pads fade or shake or anything else short of lock up (when i freek out). i dont think my car is hevy enuff to have theis pads glaze (and if you look at my home page there is plenty of pics of me abusing my brakes). so with a full surfaced rotor and the one slot in the brake pad. i noticed that they do indeed stop much better that stock. however to go the extra $ for cross drilled and or slotted is still not a "proven" improvment in our littil cars over say my steup. all of my competers will tell you that you have to keep the cost of high wear parts down to a minimum, plus every time you drill a rotor you introduce a spot for the rotor to crack. outside of looking cool i think you cant beet a good oem aftermarket setup.
p.s. my pads cant stop anything untill there up to temp henc the race only.
there is a thread on how last your brake pad lasted, and they are all over the place. hell mine couldent last 10K! damn stockers, LOL. so this "lasting" thing is still verey subjective. i still contest simple physics that less braking surface will stop sooner than a condition with less. i would want to see proof (and not the sales guy trying to sell you the rotors or the seat of your paints) that they indeed stop this particular car quicker than a solid aftermarket rotor.
my setup (race only): brembo oem replacment rotors/hawk track days pads.
i race at blackhawk and if anyone knows blackhawk they will know that it is a killer on brakes. i have never had my pads fade or shake or anything else short of lock up (when i freek out). i dont think my car is hevy enuff to have theis pads glaze (and if you look at my home page there is plenty of pics of me abusing my brakes). so with a full surfaced rotor and the one slot in the brake pad. i noticed that they do indeed stop much better that stock. however to go the extra $ for cross drilled and or slotted is still not a "proven" improvment in our littil cars over say my steup. all of my competers will tell you that you have to keep the cost of high wear parts down to a minimum, plus every time you drill a rotor you introduce a spot for the rotor to crack. outside of looking cool i think you cant beet a good oem aftermarket setup.
p.s. my pads cant stop anything untill there up to temp henc the race only.
there is a thread on how last your brake pad lasted, and they are all over the place. hell mine couldent last 10K! damn stockers, LOL. so this "lasting" thing is still verey subjective. i still contest simple physics that less braking surface will stop sooner than a condition with less. i would want to see proof (and not the sales guy trying to sell you the rotors or the seat of your paints) that they indeed stop this particular car quicker than a solid aftermarket rotor.
Well I don't have the write ups anymore. I haven't ran a shop in many yrs, hell I even got rid of most of my tools. But you can not dispute the performance of slotted/drilled rotors. Why do you think the la mans cars us them? Such as the ALMS Vette. If you think the d/s rotors are over kill wait till you see the 4-wheel disc with monoblock calipers, carbon rotors and pads they use! Their rotors cost as much as our cars put together.
As for weakening the rotor by drilling it, yes that can happen if you don't know what you are doing. I think if you by from a known manufactured like brembo you can be sure they are done right. Plus if it was a problem I doubt that they would sell them.
As for weakening the rotor by drilling it, yes that can happen if you don't know what you are doing. I think if you by from a known manufactured like brembo you can be sure they are done right. Plus if it was a problem I doubt that they would sell them.
still agree.
i worked for a SCCA team that caterd mostly to SRFs but also had two GT3s all the SRFs had solid rotors and a small 4 cylinder engine. theis cars competed all day all weekend and in 24hour races too. the super competitive class that it was never had any more need than solid rotors (because they are light small hp cars simmiler to ours). HOWEVER the GT3s had sloted cross drilled rotors because theis cars had a heaver chassis heaver V8 block and high hp inabling theis cars to reach speeds of 200mph. indeed theis brake pads would flash of material in an explosive rate-so much as to the one slot in the brake pad its self could not handle the gases and dust-in which the pad its self would loose contact to the rotor. yes i do see the need for the rotors and materials for hevey fast cars but..... last i checked, keeping in context, a P5 aint got nothing on a lemans car. you see what i am trying to say is why do you need to buy a $7,000 pnumatic 3 position hammer lazer guided three man operation drill just to hang a picture over the mantel, OTHER than to say that i have a $7,000 pnumatic 3 position hammer lazer guided three man operation drill. when you know a nice millwalkee 14.4 volt cordless drill is probably the best bet. hell whill your throwing out money dont forget to get stanless brake lines, and motol brake fluid, and a brake balancer too.
i worked for a SCCA team that caterd mostly to SRFs but also had two GT3s all the SRFs had solid rotors and a small 4 cylinder engine. theis cars competed all day all weekend and in 24hour races too. the super competitive class that it was never had any more need than solid rotors (because they are light small hp cars simmiler to ours). HOWEVER the GT3s had sloted cross drilled rotors because theis cars had a heaver chassis heaver V8 block and high hp inabling theis cars to reach speeds of 200mph. indeed theis brake pads would flash of material in an explosive rate-so much as to the one slot in the brake pad its self could not handle the gases and dust-in which the pad its self would loose contact to the rotor. yes i do see the need for the rotors and materials for hevey fast cars but..... last i checked, keeping in context, a P5 aint got nothing on a lemans car. you see what i am trying to say is why do you need to buy a $7,000 pnumatic 3 position hammer lazer guided three man operation drill just to hang a picture over the mantel, OTHER than to say that i have a $7,000 pnumatic 3 position hammer lazer guided three man operation drill. when you know a nice millwalkee 14.4 volt cordless drill is probably the best bet. hell whill your throwing out money dont forget to get stanless brake lines, and motol brake fluid, and a brake balancer too.
"Car: smashed p5"
maybe you should bought some drilled rotors, lol
j/k. right now all i hear is opinions from both sides, please keep it civil as you have done so far. If you do a search you will find many threads with this same question and arguments for both sides. You dont know how he drives or if he really needs the drilled or slotted rotors so to just dismiss his opinion is very small minded
maybe you should bought some drilled rotors, lol
j/k. right now all i hear is opinions from both sides, please keep it civil as you have done so far. If you do a search you will find many threads with this same question and arguments for both sides. You dont know how he drives or if he really needs the drilled or slotted rotors so to just dismiss his opinion is very small minded
I don't think I understand what you mean by STILL AGREE.iracemine said:
Is that, you still agree with me or your self? And I still don't see how you can't see that if they help out on big cars that they wont help out on small cars. How much did you spend on your rotors and pads? I spent, well mine were free but I got lucky, but anyways you can buy these for 100-120 a pair. I believe that's only 30 or so more then the stock rotors but with better performance. While you might not see any paddle fad that could be because you don't drive as hard as you think you do. There are a lot of people on here that have felt this fade in just day-to-day driving. So you could just be lucky. I for one have felt it, and it's scary not being able to stop.
Any ways, it seems you are basing you opinion off of your experience in the auto crossing you do and not on the actual R&D done by the companies making the parts or the companies testing them. And this is a bad thing to do. While you might auto cross, you don't dive any harder then I do when I'm in rush hour. You dont hit the speeds (as you stated) that are needed to negatively affect the rotors. So you will not see them break or crack, under pressure. But you would be able to see the benefits if you had them. And to say that they are just for looks on our cars is grossly inaccurate.
hevy car (lemans car)= lots of inertia=lots of energy/force to stop=high temp( the transition of forward energy into braking system)=the need for cd/sl rotors. i agree
light car (P5, 3, SRF)= less inirtia=littil energy (spirited driving, racing, daily driving)=littil energy/force to stop=lower temp no trasition of compound to gasses=not the need for cd/sl rotors
it doesnt matter how you drive your 3 it wont ever reap the actuall benifits of having rotors sloted or drilled its not able to generate enuff heat to create the flash of a brake pad compund into a gas. now i have melted my stock pads and "glazed" them but also in the prosses i craked them as whell they are made for day to day driving. so YES i agree for better pads all day if you drive hard.
its almost like your coming off as if the lemans cars have 325/40/19 tires that they shold make our cars handle like a lemans. dude you know just as anyone else on theis fourms if we put on smaller diameter wheels it will help our cars get up to speed faster AND have lighter unsprung mass for better handling AND lowers our cars for better center of gravity AND help us brake better. dude bigger is not always better -henc tuning- that R&D was done long time ago and was specific to the lemans cars not ours. the R&D that was done to our cars was in japan. not the marketing room of EBC.
and yes your right everyone is intitled to their own opinion. so sorry if i did come of as a prick. but my opinion as whell as many many other members of mid west council sports car club that theis types of rotors are not needed for smaller lighter low hp cars no matter how you drive. youll never use the true desing of them. they might feel alot better than stock, that is only because of the material that they are made from and they are manufactured bettter that pepboys spechal not because they have slots or holes. but theis old geizers are the same people who have drivin and raced many diffrent types of cars. they all have drilled rotors on their big ol AMXs and cudas and mustangs because they indeed need them not on their intergras and neons. and dont try and say they havent tryed cd/sl on their smaller cars.
LOL yes i did crash but i dont care how good your brakes are they wont stop you going 70mph sidways on wet grass out of turn 2 at blackhawk (damn rain)
and if you dont think i drive my P5 hard just check out my home page half-fastracing.com. if you cant see my point will just agree to disagree untill the local meet and will go out and have brake wars then ill report back with numbers
light car (P5, 3, SRF)= less inirtia=littil energy (spirited driving, racing, daily driving)=littil energy/force to stop=lower temp no trasition of compound to gasses=not the need for cd/sl rotors
it doesnt matter how you drive your 3 it wont ever reap the actuall benifits of having rotors sloted or drilled its not able to generate enuff heat to create the flash of a brake pad compund into a gas. now i have melted my stock pads and "glazed" them but also in the prosses i craked them as whell they are made for day to day driving. so YES i agree for better pads all day if you drive hard.
its almost like your coming off as if the lemans cars have 325/40/19 tires that they shold make our cars handle like a lemans. dude you know just as anyone else on theis fourms if we put on smaller diameter wheels it will help our cars get up to speed faster AND have lighter unsprung mass for better handling AND lowers our cars for better center of gravity AND help us brake better. dude bigger is not always better -henc tuning- that R&D was done long time ago and was specific to the lemans cars not ours. the R&D that was done to our cars was in japan. not the marketing room of EBC.
and yes your right everyone is intitled to their own opinion. so sorry if i did come of as a prick. but my opinion as whell as many many other members of mid west council sports car club that theis types of rotors are not needed for smaller lighter low hp cars no matter how you drive. youll never use the true desing of them. they might feel alot better than stock, that is only because of the material that they are made from and they are manufactured bettter that pepboys spechal not because they have slots or holes. but theis old geizers are the same people who have drivin and raced many diffrent types of cars. they all have drilled rotors on their big ol AMXs and cudas and mustangs because they indeed need them not on their intergras and neons. and dont try and say they havent tryed cd/sl on their smaller cars.
LOL yes i did crash but i dont care how good your brakes are they wont stop you going 70mph sidways on wet grass out of turn 2 at blackhawk (damn rain)
and if you dont think i drive my P5 hard just check out my home page half-fastracing.com. if you cant see my point will just agree to disagree untill the local meet and will go out and have brake wars then ill report back with numbersInertia would not be a factor in braking, because inertia is a mass' resistance to motion. As in motionless. It is what I possess on a lazy Sunday afternoon in my recliner. Once inertia is overcome and a mass is set into motion that mass has MOMENTUM.
I only bring this up because I have seen inertia incorrectly switched for momentum several times, and it bugs me a little. Sorry for the interruption, please continue your discussion...
I only bring this up because I have seen inertia incorrectly switched for momentum several times, and it bugs me a little. Sorry for the interruption, please continue your discussion...
DaRkCotTon
Member
- :
- Mazda 3i Touring 2.0L
well i never said im getting drilled or slotted brakes i just wanted to know the difference between them. BUT, if i did want to improve my braking should i just change the brake pads and keep the stock rotors?
in theory i think that for regular driving and even spirited i think the first upgrade should be pads... NOw as far as rotors you are going to have a hard time geting a consensus answer on what is better and why... there are too many contradicting opinions and they all make sense... They way i see it is that even if the slotted or x-drilled rotors dont help much, they wont hurt your braking. I had a deal to buy my pads and rotors as a package so the price i got was an excellent investment for a package that was proven to work. Just my 2 cents.
That was my point. There are studies and test done. The S/D rotors are better and give more stopping performance then regular rotors. Will you see this performance on you daily comute in a normal driving condition, no. But most of us drive harder on the weekends and such and even if you only get a little more stopping power from them its still worth it. Think of it this way.
In a autoX race if you slow down faster you can cross the finnish line faster.
In a autoX race if you slow down faster you can cross the finnish line faster.
