What have you done to your MS3 today?

ericrapp · Dec 23, 2016

In my honest opinion a top mount would be fine for you. just something that has more volume/capacity. It would be wise to create a heat shield or deflector to keep the turbo heat away from the top mount.
BTW i would also suggest upgrading couplings even now the OEM ones are quite soft and with enough heat cycles they tend to expand and collapse. Because you have the AP how long does it take for your BAT to clean up? I recall my first heat soak in rush hour traffic. the car pulled so much timing i went home an ordered a much bigger IC.
I was pissed.

I love monitoring data. I watch temps more than anything else : )IAT and BAT vs ambient. BTW when i bought mine, there was no aftermarket for ECM tuning Cobb was just starting on this platform. I still have the CP-E standback and harness in a too box somewhere !!
Next up for me is an oil cooler. I did do the conversion to the spin on filter which adds a bit more oil capacity, in prep for this upgrade. I am looking at Mishimoto universal 10 row oil coolers. Feel free to PM me anytime.

Preferio · Dec 30, 2016

Won a TIH (eBay) in a "waffle" (raffle) the other day, so that's cool I guess. Haven't done anything to the car these past few days.

Just as an experiment, I think I'm going to install the restrictor banjo bolt for the turbo to see if it will decrease oil consumption. It's a cheap experiment.

ericrapp · Dec 30, 2016

I have wondered if those can help. Let us know, and good luck !

Preferio · Dec 31, 2016

Will be ordering one in the next few days and will continue to monitor oil loss.

Installed my TIP today. Definitely increased the induction noise. Power seems to come on earlier and less abruptly.

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Preferio · Dec 31, 2016

In regards to the oil loss- I went ~650 miles to a quart this time. That's a significant improvement over what I've been experiencing. I log it in my caledar, the date and mileage. Nothing has changed since the last top-off other than the AP/tune. That's a 200 mile improvement!

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ericrapp · Dec 31, 2016

Interesting.

what weight oil are you using?
I do not drive in winters, and went to a slightly heavier oil favoring heat protection over cold starts

Preferio · Dec 31, 2016

Rotella T5, 10w30

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ericrapp · Dec 31, 2016

Rotella is highly recommended by the Subie guys. and everything i have read looks good.
I use Royal Purple 10 40. But that should not affect your issue. I was just wondering.

MSMS3 · Dec 31, 2016

I recommend that at next oil change you go with Rotella T6 5w40 rather than T5. It is full synthetic and has diesel detergent additives, which our pig rich (not unlike diesels) running direct injection turbo engines seem to like.

ericrapp · Jan 1, 2017

MSMS3 said:
I recommend that at next oil change you go with Rotella T6 5w40 rather than T5. It is full synthetic and has diesel detergent additives, which our pig rich (not unlike diesels) running direct injection turbo engines seem to like.

Good call MSMS3 !

I have had pretty clean valves and such. and have always been pleased with RP.
Wasn't always that way of course

Preferio · Jan 2, 2017

Stumbled across a 2871.... Yeah, that's exactly what I need!

Preferio · Jan 2, 2017

Installed my inlet hose Saturday. Definitely increases induction noise. Took a whole fifteen minutes to install.

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ericrapp · Jan 2, 2017

Preferio said:
Installed my inlet hose Saturday. Definitely increases induction noise. Took a whole fifteen minutes to install.

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Once the battery tray is moved everything it fairly simple to access.
I have upgraded couplers in blue that would look nice with TMIC with Tbolt clamps lolz

Preferio · Jan 2, 2017

ericrapp said:
Once the battery tray is moved everything it fairly simple to access.
I have upgraded couplers in blue that would look nice with TMIC with Tbolt clamps lolz

I still can't decide between FMIC and TMIC- though, if I actually got to a 2871, I'd say I'll likely go FMIC.

Preferio · Jan 4, 2017

Didn't get the 2871..

I am, however, getting a DTC indicating I've likely got a thermostat that is stuck open. Only illuminates the MIL after driving for a few minutes on the highway. I can drive 300 miles around town without it occurring, but if I cruise on the interstate for 15 minutes, the MIL will illuminate. I'll clear it and be fine until the next time I'm on the highway.

I was really excited about the 2871, but whatever. If I can make the K04 last until I motivate myself to repair the P5 engine so that I can sell it, I'll just buy a new upgraded turbo. If not, I'll just go with a used OEM probably. Don't want to do that, but time will tell I guess. I just need to get the engine out and put it on the stand. It's literally only in the car by one mount, the harness and radiator hoses. I'm just going to install new bearings, have my extra crank turned, install a new oil pump and new timing components. My buddy wants to buy it, so as soon as it's running he'll give me $1,500. I always like having two or three cars, but I'll use that money for a turbo and downpipe. I bought the P5 two years ago with a slight bottom end noise for $400 and drove it for 15,000 miles before the noise was "excessive" so I parked it. Ended up cannibalizing it for a transmission (#9) for the MSP before I sold it. It's got all new struts, control arms, brakes, bearings, engine mounts, MSP clutch, ignition components and tires that are in my basement to be installed. It's a good commuter car. Rough on the outside, but in great shape on the inside. It's lowered on some gawd awful springs, which I had taken off and installed my MSP Racing Beat springs, but took them back off and gave them to the new owner of the MSP. Short shifter of some unknown brand and a DC sports muffler welded to the tiny exhaust.

Preferio · Jan 7, 2017

Got 2.5-3" of snow last night and I've got to say the MS3 did well making it to the shop this morning.

Preferio · Jan 16, 2017

I installed my old HID's from the P5 just because... No real reason other than the fact the 'kit' was sitting in the bottom of my toolbox...

Oh, and I polished the headlamp lenses.

I rotated the tires, too.

That's 'bout it...

MSMS3 · Jan 23, 2017

Cleaned my intake valves and replaced the PCV valve while I had the intake manifold off. JBR has a good step by step PDF pictorial guide on getting the manifold separated from the cylinder head. Once you get that far, there's one more wiring plug on the bottom and the PCV hose and the manifold can be lifted out.

Valves were disgustingly dirty and carbon encrusted at 135,000. I'd only done it once before at 60,000.

This is not hard, but it was a ten hour job. Yes, it took 10 hours. Lots of things have to come off to get to those valves.

Preferio · Jan 23, 2017

MSMS3 said:
Cleaned my intake valves and replaced the PCV valve while I had the intake manifold off. JBR has a good step by step PDF pictorial guide on getting the manifold separated from the cylinder head. Once you get that far, there's one more wiring plug on the bottom and the PCV hose and the manifold can be lifted out.

Valves were disgustingly dirty and carbon encrusted at 135,000. I'd only done it once before at 60,000.

This is not hard, but it was a ten hour job. Yes, it took 10 hours. Lots of things have to come off to get to those valves.

What method did you use for cleaning? The blaster write-up I've seen elsewhere? I'm going to be doing this sometime soon and haven't yet decided which method to use. I think the utilization of a media blaster and a vacuum is the most proficient way to accomplish this. There is no way you're getting the build up removed with just a cleaning agent and soaking them.

MSMS3 · Jan 23, 2017

I used B12 solvent and brass brushes. Flush with clean gasoline. Only takes about an hour soak once you are in there. You can do three cylinders at once, then rotate the crank to close the valves on the other cylinder. Used two bottles. Pretty easy but messy. Chemtool B12 is very strong and does work well.

What have you done to your MS3 today?

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