What have you done to your MS3 today?

Washed it..

Front sway bar bushings are getting noisier and noisier. Car came from Michigan, though there isn't any significant rust, I'm putting off replacement due to fears of broken off bolts and requiring having to drop the subframe.
 
It was 71 here yesterday and sunny! It was in the 20's last Monday. East Tennessee is ******* insane.

Ever get your AP issue straightened out?

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I spent $180 on repair parts for my drone yesterday instead of car parts. Last car related purchase I made was in early January I think. Guy with the AWR PMM never messaged me back, so... spent money on other things. About to book the hotel for vacation for the family in May, then start saving for the actual trip- food, activities and such. Its insane how much a two-year old and seven-year-old add to expenses... and extra planning...

But, this isn't a life forum, so, how 'bout them MS3s?

Id really like more active MS3 users on this forum..

Not a fan of the others or the FB pages.



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Lol it was 70 here yesterday as well.. pretty crazy!! I couldn't get it to work so the guy I bought it from was nice enough to refund me the money. He text me back an hour later saying he fixed it, something with the pins. So idk if I should but it back
 
Washed it..

Front sway bar bushings are getting noisier and noisier. Car came from Michigan, though there isn't any significant rust, I'm putting off replacement due to fears of broken off bolts and requiring having to drop the subframe.

You do not have to drop the subframe. Its tight in there, but dropping is not necessary.
 
I think you misunderstood my post- If I snap the head off of a bushing detaining bracket to subframe bolt during replacement of the bushings, I will not be able to work in there to extract it out with the subframe in place.. My drills aren't fitting there... Not even my right angle drill. At that point, I'll be forced to lower the subframe and extract the bolt. THAT is what I do NOT want to happen.
 
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I don't think the bolts will snap, but I obviously am not the guy that will be fixing it if it does fail so don't take my word for it. I replaced the front and rear sway bar bushings in my friend's 08 a couple months ago and the fronts are a b****, much more difficult than the MSP.

Lol it was 70 here yesterday as well.. pretty crazy!! I couldn't get it to work so the guy I bought it from was nice enough to refund me the money. He text me back an hour later saying he fixed it, something with the pins. So idk if I should but it back

Is it a V3? How much is he selling it for?
 
I don't think the bolts will snap, but I obviously am not the guy that will be fixing it if it does fail so don't take my word for it. I replaced the front and rear sway bar bushings in my friend's 08 a couple months ago and the fronts are a b****, much more difficult than the MSP.



Is it a V3? How much is he selling it for?

Bought a used AP v2


I've seen a quite a few horror stories on MSF from users (generally from the north) who had seized bolts and ended up either breaking a bolt or rounding off a head. My car was a Michigan car and while I've yet to run into a fastener that I couldn't get out, I don't want to plan on swapping out the front bushings after work one night "real quick" only to end up going through that and having to drop the subframe. And to further that, I've seen people who have snapped off the subframe bolts. It's actually not that difficult to drop the subframe. I did it on an MS3 clutch job 3-4 years ago. It's ******* heavy, so doing it alone in my driveway will suck, but otherwise, not too bad, just more work than I want to do...

Everyone says they're a b**** to do and I can understand that based on a visual inspection of the area.
 
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I loaded the economy map earlier this week and it's increased my fuel economy by 3.1mpg. Other than the whole 80mph top speed, it's not that bad. I'd like to be able to tune on the fly, but it is what it is.

Getting new tires this weekend I believe. My tire supplier has some sale prices right now and I'm to the wear bars on three of the four tires. I eat up a set of tires in 10,000 miles...
 
I loaded the economy map earlier this week and it's increased my fuel economy by 3.1mpg. Other than the whole 80mph top speed, it's not that bad. I'd like to be able to tune on the fly, but it is what it is.

Getting new tires this weekend I believe. My tire supplier has some sale prices right now and I'm to the wear bars on three of the four tires. I eat up a set of tires in 10,000 miles...

Damn that was quick!!
 
When I received my JBR rear sway bar, one of the brackets was bent. I was bale to find the correct OD pipe in the shop to reform the bracket, but it's not perfect and get a slight 'clunk' from that side. Based on what I've found, I should be able to use Moog K7326 universal 31.7mm ID bushings and brackets. All of the local parts stores stock them and are only $20.

Plan on doing the front bushings, front links and rear bushings/brackets this weekend. But first, I've got to install struts, LCAs, a starter and service the Accord. Starter was dragging for the past two weeks and I ordered a replacement last Thursday and, of course, the ******* thing failed yesterday. It couldn't have waited until today when I'll have a starter arrive.

Went to PaP last week and they're starting to get in 3s, 6s and 8s. Still have yet to pick up a drivetrain for the P5 and that's on the plate this weekend, also.

It's amazing how much harder I work on my days off than I do at work.
 
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I've had something occur to me twice- a no crank/no start.

First time, everything was off and I fueled, went in to get a drink, came back out and nothing. I had just been driving for over an hour continuously. No flashing security/key light and all accessories and instrumentation were functional. Attempted at least 10 times with no indication of a start attempt- no dimming of lights, noises, nothing. I call my girlfriend and tell her I may need here to bring my multi-meter and tools, but my youngest had just gone to sleep, so I tell her I'd call her back. Get off the phone and turn the key one more time and it starts normally... Just because I had to know, I cycled the key off and restarted it without issue and drove home. When I pulled into the driveway and keyed-off the ignition I immediately restarted it without issue.

Yesterday when I left the shop to go for lunch after the car was sitting for 5-6 hours, the same exact thing. I turned the key fifty times and nothing. Held the key and nothing. Roll started it and off I went without issue. Didn't cycle the ignition immediately, but went on. No issues after that.

I checked by battery last night and it load tests down to 10.8 which is healthy and connections are secure.

Battery is healthy, battery post connections are secure, security light isn't flashing.
 
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