Painting your exhaust!

HotPr5

Member
My custom catback made of mild steel is starting to show some signs of rust after 26000 miles. I want to renew everything and was wonder if anyone has actually painted their exhaust with high heat paint?

I'm also thinking of doing the entire thing in black for a low pro look.

If I were to do it I was thinking of cleaning the heavy rust off first with some sandpaper then with CLR or a rust removing compound.

Should I apply primer first before applying high heat paint? Anybody have experience with painting and have some tips?

I'm aiming for something like this minus the chrome tip of course.
12-F010.JPG
 
When I did the exhaust on the srt4 I painted the hole axle back hi temp flat black. It turned out great and it had that whole sleeper look to it. I say go for it especially since you have rust. You're really gonna have to sand the exhaust down well, I didnt apply any primer and it held up fine. Its not very hard at all. Take some pics when you finish.
 
It might look good. Just paint it a flat color black or dark grey. Also, don't start painting your interior parts when you go on this paint binge. Restrain yourself:)
 
I bought a used ms axleback off of a member, and it was dirty and lost most of it's shine, so I did everything except the tip in hi temp black. it looks great, adds a little extra protection, and if it gets scratched, nicked or whatever, I just take it off and reapply.
 
My car went through one central US. winter, an the crappy oem exhaust rusted. How do you northen guy's survive??
 
Boston5761 said:
Details??

At the sale of the vehicle the Dealer tries to sell you 10 years of rust proof warrenty where they special treat the underbody for rust. They price it from arround $700 to $1000. Its a rip off.

There is a company called Metropolitain (What most people do)

They drill a few holes in choice places and spray a special greese in the holes and on any exposed areas. Allow & allow it to dry.

With this process @ 80$ an aplication they warrenty the rust proof for the life of the vehicle, so long as the aplication is made each year, and it can be transfered to the new owner if the vehicle is sold, so long as they continue the aplications.

You would be stupid not to do this in a Canadian winter, especially in Montreal where they dump salt on the roads by the truck load.
 
Last edited:
Rac3rX said:
At the sale of the vehicle the Dealer tries to sell you 10 years of rust proof warrenty where they special treat the underbody for rust. They price it from arround $700 to $1000. Its a rip off.

There is a company called Metropolitain (What most people do)

They drill a few holes in choice places and spray a special greese in the holes and on any exposed areas. Allow & allow it to dry.

With this process @ 80$ an aplication they warrenty the rust proof for the life of the vehicle, so long as the aplication is made each year, and it can be transfered to the new owner if the vehicle is sold, so long as they continue the aplications.

You would be stupid not to do this in a Canadian winter, especially in Montreal where they dump salt on the roads by the truck load.

Rust proofing is a gimmick - I used to do it. All it is is a wax that keeps water from settling there,m it really doesn't inhibit rust or anything. Plus, if you've ever taken apart your door panel and seen the inside of your door after its been rust proofed, you'll see why it's not that popular...
 
Boston5761 said:
My car went through one central US. winter, an the crappy oem exhaust rusted. How do you northen guy's survive??

I try to clean my car once a month in the winter. nothing fancy, just hoseing down all the sand, salt and grim. This only works on winters when it's not below freezing all th time.
 
Maxx Mazda said:
Rust proofing is a gimmick - I used to do it. All it is is a wax that keeps water from settling there,m it really doesn't inhibit rust or anything. Plus, if you've ever taken apart your door panel and seen the inside of your door after its been rust proofed, you'll see why it's not that popular...

Moisture and salt contact lead to rust, preventing them from contacting the underbody of the car as much as posible is the goal. Also the vehicle is warrentied for the life of the vehicle, where is the gimmick when I see un-protected cars with Rust that are younger then my car?

Its also common practice in our City.
 
Rac3rX said:
Moisture and salt contact lead to rust, preventing them from contacting the underbody of the car as much as posible is the goal. Also the vehicle is warrentied for the life of the vehicle, where is the gimmick when I see un-protected cars with Rust that are younger then my car?

Its also common practice in our City.

I dunno man, I used to do it at the dealership I worked at, and all it did was put liek a wax coating all over all the s*** inside your doors, etc and just looked like ass. I guess out east you guys need it cause of all but in calgary for sure it's a gimmick.
 
I suspect any paint on the exhaust would have rust re-appear *way* too soon to justify all the effort...

*IF* i would do it - i would remove and sand blast or bead blast before painting. Way too much work by hand!
 
I don't have pics of the before, which is highly unusual of me, but I repainted my Acura's muffler high temp flat black. Much of it was starting to flake off, and since it was black in stock form I did it up. I simply masked off the car and sprayed it. Looks like new now. Mind you this is the stock muffler that's 7 years old.

1440ll3.jpg
 
Maxx Mazda said:
I dunno man, I used to do it at the dealership I worked at, and all it did was put liek a wax coating all over all the s*** inside your doors, etc and just looked like ass. I guess out east you guys need it cause of all but in calgary for sure it's a gimmick.

True the work done at the Stealership is BS.

But not from Metropolitain


Plus the Stealership ONLY gives a Limited time warrenty for its rust proofing, when Metropolitain warrenties it for the life of the Vehicle transferable between owners.

http://www.antirouille.com/en/treatment/process.php

"First, due to its great affinity for metal, the product will repel water. Second, when in contact with water, the product forms a gel that has anti-rust properties and that will fill cavities and cracks, which will at the same time remove all traces of humidity.

Third, every service centre is equipped with industrial dryers (500,000 Btu!) that can completely dry your vehicle.

The same technique is used during the winter. Dryers dry and de-ice all metal surfaces of your vehicle, leaving them warm enough to increase the efficiency of the treatment.

So rain or shine, you can have your vehicle treated on the day of your appointment, regardless of the mood Mother Nature is in. Don't forget that Metropolitan Rust Proofing has taken every measure to insure peak efficiency of your treatment.

Drilling

Upon the first anti-rust treatment of their vehicle, many people are shocked when they see our technicians drill holes in their vehicle. The 'drilling' is probably the most unfamiliar operation of the treatment. It enables us to reach strategic locations such as the inside of the rocker panels and doors.

Rocker panels

Rocker panels are drilled in two locations on two-door models and in three locations on four-door models (2 in the front and 1 in the back) to allow access to enclosed areas where humidity builds up. Because of their location, rocker panels are particularly exposed to calcium deposits during the winter, to wearing from door friction and they also have many solder joints and folds, etc. Rocker panels are generally where rust first appears on untreated vehicles.

Note: After drilling, each hole is coated with a mixture of grease and oil and plugged with a black rubber cap. These holes measure approximately half an inch in diameter. Please note that drilling locations vary from one vehicle model to another.

Doors

Doors are drilled in only one location that is approximately 15cm from the bottom edge. The bottom part of the door is generally very sensitive to rust for three reasons: humidity easily settles inside, wearing is important due to constant friction and the structure contains many folds. Drilling the doors enables us to reach the inside and apply the product uniformly."
 
Back