Yakima finally worked out the roof rack

wondering why rear towers had to be above door

I'd feel better about buying this setup (i too have some bits i could reuse), if they'd've been able to put the rear towers/clips hooked in the gap at the top of the rear(fixed) window. I'm considering how to carry canoes and the farther apart the crossbars can get,I think, the better. I believe on yakima's site they list only 32"; which is about the same as the measurement between the factory rack mounting points.

I had a 'lightbulb moment' and scurried down expecting to find that the sliding door would hit the tower/clip if it was attached above the fixed window, but it sure looks like there's plenty of room to clear.

I guess going with the q-towers would make install/removal more convenient, as I prefer not to run around with the rack on if I'm not hauling anything.
 
Mike - tell us about your hitch. Any tips?

I just bought my Q Clips to reuse the arsenal of yakima items I already own. Too cold now to play with them though:)
 
True - it has a cleaner look but you are limited to the space between the towers. With the Yakima system you can have longer bars and have more flexibility with what you can put on the roof.

I had been thinking why would someone want the Yakima setup, but now I understand about the wider bars for more room compared to the Mazda/Thule one.

I do find that the look of the Thule version with the addition of the wind fairing really improves the streamlined look (as in the coolmazda5's pic in the snow day thread).

My 1998 RAV4 had mounting holes like the 5 for a rack, but Toyota rack was expensive and narrow. I bought an aftermarket Sportrack (bought at Canadian Tire and other places) - it was like the Yakima setup and gave way more room up top. I don't think Sportrack makes one for the 5 yet - the cost is a lot less than the others. I just sold it to a woman with a 2008 Chevy Aveo because that was one of the many cars it fits, but not my Acura or Mazda - so I'll have to decide between the Thule and Yakima.
 
Sorry so late, seeing as this thread is almost 3 years old and there's been plenty of Yakima rack discussion already, I was wondering if anyone has discussed this setup.

Judging by my old MX-3 and the fact that I didn't know what a stretch kit was, I installed an old set of 1C SST towers on it but the crossbars were only about 15 inches apart. This is much too close for any recommended Yakima attachment but I didn't know any better and I did it anyways for my bikes.

Now I have a Mazda5 and am considering a Yakima Q system but I dont wanna use the normal front door clip setup. The front crossbar is too low IMO and it will hinder sunroof operation. So hows this, I buy 2 sets of rear door clips (Q12) and I position the front crossbar just behind the fully open sunroof. I position the rear crossbar as far back on the door as possible. Thisll give me about 21 of spread which is still smaller than recommended but itll only be for 2 sub-18lb bikes. I will never use it for canoes/kayaks or boxes. And lastly, the open sunroof will serve as a makeshift fairing for the crossbars.

Anyone else considered or have done it this way?
 
i know youre asking about a yakima system-but if youre going to buy all new parts i would highly recommend the thule set-up. it uses the pre set mouting points from the factory and is pretty much like its welded on. i use it and love it.
 
i know youre asking about a yakima system-but if youre going to buy all new parts i would highly recommend the thule set-up. it uses the pre set mouting points from the factory and is pretty much like its welded on. i use it and love it.

Thanks but on 8-12-08, the user Distinct from an msprotege forum (not sure if they're the same forum now) posted this pic showing a Thule 460 Aero and how the sunroof hits the bottom of his attachment screws and his surfboard. I wrote above that I need full sunroof operation (what did I buy it for?). That's why I'm thinking about moving the rack towers as far back as possible to prevent any sunroof contact. In addition, I have leftover Yakima attachments that I wanna use.
 

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Alternately, has anyone looked at using Yakima Control Towers and Landing Pads on the Mazda5? This setup would utilize the fixed roof attach points just like the Thule 460/460R. According to Yakima, the 5 doesn't have compatible Control Towers/Pads but the Mazda3, CX-7 and CX-9 all use Landing Pad #11 and it's a single bolt per pad just like the 5. Has anyone attempted this? Maybe the rubber pads aren't shaped properly for the 5's roof but IMO that's a relatively minor alteration as long as the rack mount points are strong and secure. See below URL for install of pad #11.

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/orsr...pad-11-lp11-installation-instructions-pdf.pdf
 
Control Towers and Landing Pads

After checking the Thule fit guide, the 460/460R towers and 3069 fit kit fit the Mazda5, CX7, and CX9. They recommend the clip style for Mazda3. After checking the Yakima fit guide, the Control Towers and Landing Pad 11 fit the Mazda3, CX7, and CX9. They recommend the clip style for Mazda5. Wait a second, why would Thule approve a system for fixpoint roof mounting for the 5 but Yakima wouldnt? After careful research, I was convinced the Control Towers and Landing Pad 11 will fit the Mazda5. The only thing I was concerned with was sunroof clearance but that doesnt seem to be a problem either. I get to reuse my old attachments so out-of-pocket was less than $200. Unfortunately the fairing rests directly on the sunroof so Ill go without it as Ive done in the past.

Honestly, after seeing how solidly this system mounts and holds my bikes (already went on the freeway at 75mph) and the fact that I can fully open my sunroof, I have absolutely no idea why Yakima didnt approve this system for the 5.
 

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professor - i'd suggest starting a new 'success' thread for Yakima & M5's with out using the ugly clips.

Pinching the weatherstripping seals never seemed like a good idea.
On a side note, I've found Thule fixpoint towers on a canadian website, but they continue to be sold out.

michael.
 
I wouldn't call this a complete success but it suits my rack needs perfectly. I've never really used fairings before so I'll just continue to endure the windnoise. And the sunroof is slightly "domed" and higher in the center so surfboards and boxes still might hit. From pics I've seen of the Thule and OEM, this Control Tower setup is slightly taller than the Thule 460 and slightly shorter than OEM. Once again, I wonder why Yakima didn't research this solution. Door clips suck and the 5 has been out for almost 4 years...
 
Yes, Control Tower fixpoint mounts are a better option than Q clips. But I also don't wanna assume that I figured something out that the Yakima research team didn't. Maybe this setup will damage my roof in the long run or void the warranty or whatever. All I know is that I needed a bike transport solution, I don't like door clips, I like opening the sunroof, and I have old Yakima stuff. In addition, it just seems logical that if the exact same Thule system fits the 5 and CX7/CX9 that Yakima's CX7/CX9 system should also fit the 5.

I didn't seriously consider a Thule system but from what I've read, the 751 is discontinued in favor of the 460/460R system so it'll probably get more and more difficult to find a 751. And the 753 is marketed as a BMW-only system.

I included a pic of 2 road machines up top. There's enough room for 1 in the center and possibly 2 more on the ends. Let me know if you want any measurements of my setup, in particular sunroof clearance as you had asked about in your previous posts.
 

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Prof -

If you can take one or two more snaps of your setup...?

1) clearance of your sunroof with the long bike tray (I have 2 long trays also).
2) what is left on the M5 roof w/ the rack off? Do those little 'feet' stay ontop? It appears you screw the feet into the roof, then attach the rack to the feet? And the feet live there?

thanks.
michael.
 
Prof -

If you can take one or two more snaps of your setup...?

1) clearance of your sunroof with the long bike tray (I have 2 long trays also).
2) what is left on the M5 roof w/ the rack off? Do those little 'feet' stay ontop? It appears you screw the feet into the roof, then attach the rack to the feet? And the feet live there?

thanks.
michael.


2nd question first, see below URL, about 2/3 of the way down the page, user SaDrago has a writeup on the exact same Yakima setup on a Mazda3. He has great pics on what the Landing Pads looks like with the Control Towers removed.

http://**********************/index.php?topic=7432.msg2891177#msg2891177

Landing Pads are screwed into the fixpoints with a single 6mm bolt each. The 4 Control Towers (along with the bars and any attachments) can be detached from the Landing Pads in literally 2 minutes and the Landing Pads have plastic snap-on covers. You don't necessarily have to unscrew/remove the Landing Pads but your car will look funny if you leave it on without the rest of the rack on.

Now your 1st question, it's tough to measure but the clearance seems to be just under about 3/8" (see first pic). Also consider that I use an older style Steelhead, the type with an open ended tray on both sides. Because of this, the tray sits above/higher than the fork mount (see second pic). I believe the newer Yakima fork mount trays are integrated and are therefore "lower profile" and *could* hit the sunroof. Lastly, I laid a 1" x 4" piece of wood down the center of the rack and opened the sunroof and it definitely hits (see third pic) and lifts the front of the wood about 1/2".

Having said all of this, since you only have 2 trays, you can always attach them on either side of the open sunroof (inside of the towers). If you want to attach 3 or 4 bikes, you'll likely have to utilize more of the center portion directly above the sunroof (or even the space outside of the towers). If it were me, I'd opt for using the Boa attachments over the center (no tray necessary). We're literally talking about millimeters of clearance here and if you find that you need more height, you can also add spacers.

Now for an aside, I opted not to use a fairing because it'll rest on the sunroof but I think I may have figured out a way to use it and I don't think it'll look that bad. Essentially, I'll be adding a third crossbar without clips or towers and the third bar will be positioned about 6" in front of the front crossbar. I'll attempt this setup within the next week...
 

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Tee hee... the link above if for 'another forum' eh? (wiggle)

I've tried that before as well. It'll get blocked.
Email me if needed.

michael.


Hmmm, we're all here to share information. I don't understand why there's "competition" among forums. To find the discussion, just enter "sadrago roof rack update yakima mazda" into Google and it's there.
 
Hmmm, we're all here to share information. I don't understand why there's "competition" among forums.

Unfortunately it is the rules of engagement on most forums. I know most of the times it is a benign objective (especially in the Mazda5 area), but not all members have that purpose to be honest.
 

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