What have you done to your MSP today?

I am currently paying off some debt but when I can I will definitely get those from you. A wrap would be cool but they cost the same as a paint job. The body would have to be completely perfect with no dents and 1574 has some dents around both front doors as well as some light dings in the body. I will look into it though.
 
Don't waste your time on the ebay mani, 3 local MSP guys bought it (against my recommendation "it was only $200!") and all three were cracked within 6 months.

That was my specific thought... cheap, cuz both stock manifolds I have are cracked. I'll have to find one on here I suppose
 
Crack isnt gonna hurt anything. Just sounds bad. Save your money for a pope or steedspeed, donit once and forget about it
 
What have I done to my MSP today, Humm! , I painted a new trunk lid for the blazing yellow critter which got dented in the driveway!
With 64,000 mile on it which none have been a winter, this car is amazing, I mean that because not many vehicles from 03 have that little mileage.
My buddy figures this car will be very collectible in some years to come.
I figure this stock MSP at some point will be a nice car for someone.
 
That was my specific thought... cheap, cuz both stock manifolds I have are cracked. I'll have to find one on here I suppose

I welded both stock manis and they both cracked later on, but a friend of mine had his welded by one of his coworkers and 2 years later it still hasn't cracked. Ended up buying an uncracked callaway with relief cuts for the daily and a nice never-installed Steedspeed for the forged car. Waiting to pick up a T28 before I install it.
 
New coolant bottle and PS pump seals came in, going to rebuild the pump tomorrow and flush the coolant in both cars.
 
I welded both stock manis and they both cracked later on, but a friend of mine had his welded by one of his coworkers and 2 years later it still hasn't cracked. Ended up buying an uncracked callaway with relief cuts for the daily and a nice never-installed Steedspeed for the forged car. Waiting to pick up a T28 before I install it.

i have two mint no cracks callaway manifolds , Im interested in the relief cuts? May i get more info on that?, i was going to build a brace from the block to manifold , and run a flex on the exhaust to try and avoid the cracking.
 
You will have to run a flex either way, and solid motor mounts will help. Basically just cut a slit in the manifold between the bolt holes so it can expand and contract, I don't know if it actually helps or hurts to prevent the manifold from cracking but I bought it that way and it isn't cracked yet.
 
GReddy_Manifold_cuts.jpg


That's a BP mani, not an FS but it's the same concept. Basically cutting reliefs between the runners for them to expand independently.
 
I took apart a spare PS pump, replaced all the seals and cleaned it up to swap into 1345. When I tightened the housing the pulley would not spin at all, took it apart a couple times and eventually got it to where the pulley will spin but has considerably more resistance than it did before. I don't know what else I can check and I have already taken it apart 4 times, not sure what could be causing it. I hope once it is on the car and has fluid it will start to work better. I don't think I bent the shaft or anything like that, I tried removing the pulley but couldn't get it to come off so I will get a puller sometime this week and try it again. I have had a medieval light weight pulley for years that I will finally install, but don't want the pump to be messed up and lose power from it having excessive resistance.
 
DAMNIT!! Titanium on ebay with 57k miles sold for $2,235! Wish I could have bought it, would fix the couple of dents it had, put stock wheels on it and keep it in the garage.
 
I finally pulled it out of the garage. Considering this was a giant lego set that we dragged (literally) out of some kids parent's garage back in october this has come a long ways. Just need to buy the resonator section of the exhaust, and new tires and then she will be ready for the road, but its running and drives now.

Mods on the car came mostly from the old KLZE slotege, the AEM CAI and 03.5 spoiler came with the car.
AEM CAI
MFactory LSD
KMR Rear Vbrace
KMR Front Tie bar
Clunk Fix brackets
Energy Adjustable rear Endlinks
MZ6 Front Brakes
Retrofit P5 headlights
DIY Bronze shifter bushings
TS urethane shifter bushings
Nardi Steering wheel
Pioneer headunit
03.5 rear spoiler
03.5 rear lip
03.5 axle back
and all kinds of other detail items around the car along with all sorts of maintenance work that had been neglected.

 
Nice!

Looking to use my Cobb powers to get a T28 and some coilovers soon.

With SXSW going on and working I haven't had time to do the coolant flushes I have been needing to do on both cars. I did get my Medieval PS pump pulley I have had for at least 4 years now installed on a pump with new seals. Looking to install that on the forged car when I have time and flush the system.
 
With it being 'tax season' or just after, accompanied by the low selling price of MSPs, I figured there would have been an influx of new owners here. Probably utilizing the FB pages more than sites.
 
you guys get money back? lol. app I make too much living paycheque to paycheque.
 
remove bumper, remove headlights, install headlights, replace bumper.. but for wiring, what i found easiest to do was to cut the stock harness and power my ballasts from it, with both grounded to the chassis. are the single or bixenon beams?

when i say power the ballasts... use a multimeter to find the wire that reads +12v when you turn on the headlights. i use that wire as a trigger for a 12v relay that direct powers the ballast from the battery, grouded to the chassis.
you can then find the +12v when highbeams are selected and use that to power a bixenon controller. also grounded to chassis.
 
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remove bumper, remove headlights, install headlights, replace bumper.. but for wiring, what i found easiest to do was to cut the stock harness and power my ballasts from it, with both grounded to the chassis. are the single or bixenon beams?

when i say power the ballasts... use a multimeter to find the wire that reads +12v when you turn on the headlights. i use that wire as a trigger for a 12v relay that direct powers the ballast from the battery, grouded to the chassis.
you can then find the +12v when highbeams are selected and use that to power a bixenon controller. also grounded to chassis.

This is what I did, I used the fog light harness to switch a relay to power my ballasts. Then I grounded the top wire of the stock h4 plug on the passenger side so that fogs stay on with high beams. I also ties the bixenon projectors' wires to the high beam wires so I have projector high beam and reflector high beams at the same time. Plus fog lights!
 
remove bumper, remove headlights, install headlights, replace bumper.. but for wiring, what i found easiest to do was to cut the stock harness and power my ballasts from it, with both grounded to the chassis. are the single or bixenon beams?

when i say power the ballasts... use a multimeter to find the wire that reads +12v when you turn on the headlights. i use that wire as a trigger for a 12v relay that direct powers the ballast from the battery, grouded to the chassis.
you can then find the +12v when highbeams are selected and use that to power a bixenon controller. also grounded to chassis.


I've heard that some people have had the ability to wire in a stock p5 harness pigtail to the msp. Since the msp is single bulb dual filament and the p5 is two bulb single filament. My bumper is already off I'm just having an issue figuring out the wiring.
 
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