I've been going back and forth to mazda to fix a rev problem and they finally got the fix for it right. The car doesn't rev to 2000rpm anymore when I place the car in gear without touching the gas. The car revs steady and sweet now...thank god for the warranty. Mazda ended up replacing the clutch switch which solved the problem...I had gone back and forth to the dealer for about a year to solve this issue. I'm just happy it's fixed because I love the car.
CEL Code P0704/P0507
- Thread starter VermZ06
- Start date
orng1 said:
YEah the idling never really affected the way the car drove, but it was obviously not correct when I'd put the car in gear without touching the gas and the RPMs would rise. The dealer tried everything. They replaced the wastegate accuator and throttle body to try and solve the issue before this...that didn't work, but they hit the nail on the head this time and solved the issue. The service guys at this place were pretty good. They didn't give me any bulls*** and worked on the car until it was fixed.
DTC P0704 [FS]
DTC P0704 Clutch switch circuit malfunction
DETECTION CONDITION
* PCM monitors changes in input voltage from the clutch switch. If PCM does not detect PCM terminal 6 voltage changes while running vehicle with vehicle speed above 30 km/h {19 mph} and stopping vehicle 10 times repeatedly, it determines that clutch switch circuit has malfunction.
* Diagnostic support note This is a continuous monitor (CCM).
* MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above the above malfunction condition in two consecutive drive cycles.
* PENDING CODE is available if PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle.
* FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
* DTC is stored in PCM memory.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
* CLT switch malfunction
* Open harness between clutch switch terminal A and PCM terminal 6
* PCM malfunction
ebt-raster
Diagnostic procedure
STEP INSPECTION ACTION
1 VERIFY FREEZE FRAME DATA HAS BEEN RECORDED
* Has FREEZE FRAME DATA been recorded?
Yes Go to next step.
No Record FREEZE FRAME DATA on repair order, then go to next step.
2 VERIFY RELATED REPAIR INFORMATION AVAILABILITY
* Check for related Service Bulletins availability.
* Is any related repair information available?
Yes Perform repair or diagnosis according to available repair information.
* If vehicle is not repaired, go to next step.
No Go to next step.
3 INSPECT X-06 COMMON CONNECTOR CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER
* Disconnect X-06 common connector.
* Turn ignition key to ON (engine OFF).
* Measure voltage between X-06 common connector male terminal J and body ground.
* Is voltage B+ ?
Yes Repair or replace harness for short to power, then go to Step 10.
No Go to next step.
4 INSPECT CLUTCH SWITCH SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER
* Turn ignition key OFF.
* Connect breakout box with PCM connector disconnected.
* Turn ignition key to ON (engine OFF).
* Measure voltage between breakout box terminal 6 and body ground.
* Is voltage B+ ?
Yes Repair or replace harness for short to power, then go to Step 10.
No Go to next step.
5 INSPECT POOR CONNECTION OF CLUTCH SWITCH CONNECTOR
* Turn ignition key to OFF.
* Disconnect clutch switch connector.
* Check for poor connection (damaged/pilled-out terminals, corrosion, etc.).
* Is there malfunction?
Yes Repair or replace terminal, then go Step 10.
No Go to next step.
6 INSPECT CLUTCH SWITCH SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR OPEN
* Make sure to reconnect all disconnected connectors.
* Turn ignition key to ON (engine OFF).
* Measure voltage between clutch switch terminal A and body ground.
* Is voltage B+ ?
Yes Go to next step.
No Repair or replace clutch switch signal circuit for open, then go to Step 10.
7 INSPECT POOR CONNECTION OF PCM CONNECTOR
* Turn ignition key to OFF.
* Disconnect PCM connector.
* Check for poor connection at terminal 6 (damaged/pulled-out terminals, corrosion, etc.).
* Is there malfunction?
Yes Repair terminal, then go to Step 10.
No Go to next step.
8 INSPECT X-06 COMMON CONNECTOR CIRCUIT FOR OPEN
* Disconnect X-06 common connector.
* Turn ignition key to ON (engine OFF).
* Depress clutch pedal and measure voltage between X-06 common connector male terminal J and body ground.
* Is voltage B+ ?
Yes Go to next step.
No Repair or replace harness for open, then go to Step 10.
9 INSPECT CLUTCH SWITCH
* Perform clutch switch inspection.
(See CLUTCH SWITCH INSPECTION [FS] .)
* Is clutch switch okay?
Yes Go to next step.
No Replace clutch switch, then go to next step.
10 VERIFY TROUBLESHOOTING OF DTC P0704 COMPLETED
* Make sure to reconnect all disconnected connectors.
* Start engine.
* Clear DTC from PCM memory using WDS or equivalent.
* Drive vehicle above 29.8 km/h {18.5 mph} and stop vehicle.
* Depress and release clutch pedal more than 10 times during drive cycle.
* Is PENDING CODE of same DTC present?
Yes Replace PCM, then go to next step.
No Go to next step.
11 VERIFY AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE
* Perform "After Repair Procedure".
(See AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE [FS] .)
* Is there any DTC present?
Yes Go to applicable DTC inspection.
(See DTC TABLE [FS] .)
No Troubleshooting completed.
DTC P0704 Clutch switch circuit malfunction
DETECTION CONDITION
* PCM monitors changes in input voltage from the clutch switch. If PCM does not detect PCM terminal 6 voltage changes while running vehicle with vehicle speed above 30 km/h {19 mph} and stopping vehicle 10 times repeatedly, it determines that clutch switch circuit has malfunction.
* Diagnostic support note This is a continuous monitor (CCM).
* MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above the above malfunction condition in two consecutive drive cycles.
* PENDING CODE is available if PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle.
* FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
* DTC is stored in PCM memory.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
* CLT switch malfunction
* Open harness between clutch switch terminal A and PCM terminal 6
* PCM malfunction
ebt-raster
Diagnostic procedure
STEP INSPECTION ACTION
1 VERIFY FREEZE FRAME DATA HAS BEEN RECORDED
* Has FREEZE FRAME DATA been recorded?
Yes Go to next step.
No Record FREEZE FRAME DATA on repair order, then go to next step.
2 VERIFY RELATED REPAIR INFORMATION AVAILABILITY
* Check for related Service Bulletins availability.
* Is any related repair information available?
Yes Perform repair or diagnosis according to available repair information.
* If vehicle is not repaired, go to next step.
No Go to next step.
3 INSPECT X-06 COMMON CONNECTOR CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER
* Disconnect X-06 common connector.
* Turn ignition key to ON (engine OFF).
* Measure voltage between X-06 common connector male terminal J and body ground.
* Is voltage B+ ?
Yes Repair or replace harness for short to power, then go to Step 10.
No Go to next step.
4 INSPECT CLUTCH SWITCH SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER
* Turn ignition key OFF.
* Connect breakout box with PCM connector disconnected.
* Turn ignition key to ON (engine OFF).
* Measure voltage between breakout box terminal 6 and body ground.
* Is voltage B+ ?
Yes Repair or replace harness for short to power, then go to Step 10.
No Go to next step.
5 INSPECT POOR CONNECTION OF CLUTCH SWITCH CONNECTOR
* Turn ignition key to OFF.
* Disconnect clutch switch connector.
* Check for poor connection (damaged/pilled-out terminals, corrosion, etc.).
* Is there malfunction?
Yes Repair or replace terminal, then go Step 10.
No Go to next step.
6 INSPECT CLUTCH SWITCH SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR OPEN
* Make sure to reconnect all disconnected connectors.
* Turn ignition key to ON (engine OFF).
* Measure voltage between clutch switch terminal A and body ground.
* Is voltage B+ ?
Yes Go to next step.
No Repair or replace clutch switch signal circuit for open, then go to Step 10.
7 INSPECT POOR CONNECTION OF PCM CONNECTOR
* Turn ignition key to OFF.
* Disconnect PCM connector.
* Check for poor connection at terminal 6 (damaged/pulled-out terminals, corrosion, etc.).
* Is there malfunction?
Yes Repair terminal, then go to Step 10.
No Go to next step.
8 INSPECT X-06 COMMON CONNECTOR CIRCUIT FOR OPEN
* Disconnect X-06 common connector.
* Turn ignition key to ON (engine OFF).
* Depress clutch pedal and measure voltage between X-06 common connector male terminal J and body ground.
* Is voltage B+ ?
Yes Go to next step.
No Repair or replace harness for open, then go to Step 10.
9 INSPECT CLUTCH SWITCH
* Perform clutch switch inspection.
(See CLUTCH SWITCH INSPECTION [FS] .)
* Is clutch switch okay?
Yes Go to next step.
No Replace clutch switch, then go to next step.
10 VERIFY TROUBLESHOOTING OF DTC P0704 COMPLETED
* Make sure to reconnect all disconnected connectors.
* Start engine.
* Clear DTC from PCM memory using WDS or equivalent.
* Drive vehicle above 29.8 km/h {18.5 mph} and stop vehicle.
* Depress and release clutch pedal more than 10 times during drive cycle.
* Is PENDING CODE of same DTC present?
Yes Replace PCM, then go to next step.
No Go to next step.
11 VERIFY AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE
* Perform "After Repair Procedure".
(See AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE [FS] .)
* Is there any DTC present?
Yes Go to applicable DTC inspection.
(See DTC TABLE [FS] .)
No Troubleshooting completed.
cutemazda3chik
Member
My Mazda 3
Hey everyone! I own a mazda 3 w/ a 2.3L engine and I just recently had the dtc of p0507. If anyone can answer this for me that would be great, here it is: I cleared the code by using a diagnostic computer scanner (i'm a mechanic & I happen to work in a repair garage but unfortunately we don't specialize in mazdas), is this code something that will keep coming back? I live in Maryland and it's pretty cold here, is that what is firing this code off? And is there a repair for this?
Hey everyone! I own a mazda 3 w/ a 2.3L engine and I just recently had the dtc of p0507. If anyone can answer this for me that would be great, here it is: I cleared the code by using a diagnostic computer scanner (i'm a mechanic & I happen to work in a repair garage but unfortunately we don't specialize in mazdas), is this code something that will keep coming back? I live in Maryland and it's pretty cold here, is that what is firing this code off? And is there a repair for this?
mazdaspeedwerx
Member
- :
- 03.5 msp
pics? ^^
Last edited:
huckfinnstyle
Member
- :
- 3
CEL P0704/P0507 Knowledge Capture
These forums were helpful to me in diagnosing performance issues so, thank you! Thought I'd capture the knowledge I gained for posterity...
2007 Mazda 3 2.3L Manual Transmission
CEL: On
OBD-II Trouble Codes: P0102, P0507, P0704
Symptoms:
Bad idle, bucking/hesitation when accelerating after shift, clutch-in when approaching a stop light resulted in stalling, RPM rise when putting the car in gear while stopped with clutch-in, decreased fuel economy.
P0102 fix: Second time with this code due to a broken wire in the MAF harness, about an inch back from the connector. Original fix was a crimp job. Addressed with a proper soldered fix of the wire, cleaned MAF sensor, then cleared trouble codes. Immediately running smoother; no longer any stalls, rough idling, or jumpy shifts.
P0507 & P0704: These two CELs came back after a couple of drive cycles. Still noticing rev changes when shifting into gear while stopped w/ clutch-in.
- Removed and Cleaned throttle body per Mazda Service Bulletin SB01-007-09-2069 titled "UNSTABLE IDLING/ENGINE STALLS JUST AFTER STOPPING" (Ask Jeeves, he'll show you where you can download a pdf). Resulted in noticeable improvement of rpms at idle and shifts (smoother). Did not clear CEL and codes did not clear on their own. Gas mileage still has not improved (which surprised me).
- Removed and installed new OEM clutch switch P/N BP4K-66-49YA per (or close enough to) service manual procedure . I removed the switch w/ a turn and pull first, then removed the wiring connector by pressing a screwdriver into the connector and pushing it out. It's too hard to reach otherwise. Removal and install took about 60 seconds. Immediately there was improvement to smoothness of idle and when placing the car in gear w/ clutch-in.
Information on the switch's name/part# and what switch is responsible is a bit confusing, because there are two switches in the clutch pedal assembly. I replaced the lower switch (blue & grey). It is referred to both as a Clutch Position Switch and a Neutral Safety Switch depending where you look. I believe those to be two different things. As far as I can tell this is the CPP. The switch higher up and to the right (black w/ white plunger) is the safety switch, I think. They oppose each other, one is always pressed while the clutch is engaged and the other is depressed when the clutch disengaged. Either way, search the part number or pick one that looks like the image in the repair manual; that's the one I went with. For about $12 bucks shipped, I got mine from a Mazda dealer on Ebay.
When I removed the original switch it was obvious that mechanically it had failed. The plunger should smoothly travel out when the clutch pedal is depressed. Mine was clunky, with shortened and loose travel. I could also hear pieces moving around when I shook the housing. There are two springs inside the switch that produce the tension causing the plunger to travel, moving the copper plates on/off the terminals, which then opens or closes the circuit. I took the switch apart and the larger of the two springs was completely destroyed (see attached images). I haven't had enough drive cycles yet to determine if this resolved everything, but if I don't reply, assume that all is right in the world.
These forums were helpful to me in diagnosing performance issues so, thank you! Thought I'd capture the knowledge I gained for posterity...
2007 Mazda 3 2.3L Manual Transmission
CEL: On
OBD-II Trouble Codes: P0102, P0507, P0704
Symptoms:
Bad idle, bucking/hesitation when accelerating after shift, clutch-in when approaching a stop light resulted in stalling, RPM rise when putting the car in gear while stopped with clutch-in, decreased fuel economy.
P0102 fix: Second time with this code due to a broken wire in the MAF harness, about an inch back from the connector. Original fix was a crimp job. Addressed with a proper soldered fix of the wire, cleaned MAF sensor, then cleared trouble codes. Immediately running smoother; no longer any stalls, rough idling, or jumpy shifts.
P0507 & P0704: These two CELs came back after a couple of drive cycles. Still noticing rev changes when shifting into gear while stopped w/ clutch-in.
- Removed and Cleaned throttle body per Mazda Service Bulletin SB01-007-09-2069 titled "UNSTABLE IDLING/ENGINE STALLS JUST AFTER STOPPING" (Ask Jeeves, he'll show you where you can download a pdf). Resulted in noticeable improvement of rpms at idle and shifts (smoother). Did not clear CEL and codes did not clear on their own. Gas mileage still has not improved (which surprised me).
- Removed and installed new OEM clutch switch P/N BP4K-66-49YA per (or close enough to) service manual procedure . I removed the switch w/ a turn and pull first, then removed the wiring connector by pressing a screwdriver into the connector and pushing it out. It's too hard to reach otherwise. Removal and install took about 60 seconds. Immediately there was improvement to smoothness of idle and when placing the car in gear w/ clutch-in.
Information on the switch's name/part# and what switch is responsible is a bit confusing, because there are two switches in the clutch pedal assembly. I replaced the lower switch (blue & grey). It is referred to both as a Clutch Position Switch and a Neutral Safety Switch depending where you look. I believe those to be two different things. As far as I can tell this is the CPP. The switch higher up and to the right (black w/ white plunger) is the safety switch, I think. They oppose each other, one is always pressed while the clutch is engaged and the other is depressed when the clutch disengaged. Either way, search the part number or pick one that looks like the image in the repair manual; that's the one I went with. For about $12 bucks shipped, I got mine from a Mazda dealer on Ebay.
When I removed the original switch it was obvious that mechanically it had failed. The plunger should smoothly travel out when the clutch pedal is depressed. Mine was clunky, with shortened and loose travel. I could also hear pieces moving around when I shook the housing. There are two springs inside the switch that produce the tension causing the plunger to travel, moving the copper plates on/off the terminals, which then opens or closes the circuit. I took the switch apart and the larger of the two springs was completely destroyed (see attached images). I haven't had enough drive cycles yet to determine if this resolved everything, but if I don't reply, assume that all is right in the world.
Attachments
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