good way to do an injector clean instead of a topend clean.
How To Use Seafoam To Clean Your Engine
- Thread starter palbuddy
- Start date
good way to do an injector clean instead of a topend clean.
hey guys i have a 99 lx 1.8L protege i seafoamed it today i poured about 3/4 of the container into a plastic cup detached the brake booster line and started it up let it suck it all down and the the motor sit for a few minutes started it up and flsuhed out all the white steam idles a bit better now i also put some in the crank case just wondering how long i should keep that in the oil or if i should change it right away
I would not let the seafoam sit in with your oil for too long....so get to changing that oil (hi)
I usually leave it in for about 50 miles, which is 1 day's worth of driving for me.
when doing it in the oil it is best to pour it in (after the car is warm) and let the the car idle for 10-15min then change the oil. it just depends on how much you pour in the motor for deluting it down. Also if your oil filter is already full of crap the oil will bypass the filter and anything that you free up can get recirculated around in your motor possibly clogging somthing. Engine flushes are a good thing. but its best to do it with a new filter and a better flush that the seafoam. Oh and after you do the flush with the new filter.... put on another new filter.
this is just a genral response to adding it to the crank case. I'm not picking on anyone.
this is just a genral response to adding it to the crank case. I'm not picking on anyone.
should you put the whole can in the booster line?
and i have a 626 mani with no vics or vtcs, and egr blocked off, which means i plugged all the holes with quicksteel, do you think that the foam would do anything to that?
...also i just, like just changed my oil...fail...
and i have a 626 mani with no vics or vtcs, and egr blocked off, which means i plugged all the holes with quicksteel, do you think that the foam would do anything to that?
...also i just, like just changed my oil...fail...
protege321
Member
- :
- 02 Protege DX
so u put 1/3 in the gas tank, 1/3 into the valve cover, and suck the remaining 1/3 through the brake booster line. after its all sucked up let the car stall and sit for 10-15 mins. start it back up, rev for 3 mins then idle for 5. take it for a drive to clean the remaining out. then get an oil change after 50 miles?
lilpoindexter
Member
- :
- 99 prot 95 miata
DAMn...this seafoam stuff sounds like fun...im going to do it tommorrow when i change the oil in my beater 99 protege 1.6/5spd
Some good reading on this thread....lol, I don't have a mazda, but I swear every Seafoam thread I find, there's different opinions and I learn something else new about the product 
Some say use the PCV, others say, no don't use the PCV valve it doesn't feed all cylinders, use the brake booster, and then the other way around lol....so confusing.
I'm _thinking_ it may vary from car to car? Which vacuum line to use the seafoam in? It seems so anyways....but hell, why not do it through both lines, just to be sure you get it all? Any problems doing that? Now, let me rephrase, do the process through the brake booster first, adding the sea foam (1/3 of the can as per the instructions), shut off the engine, let it sit for 10-20 minutes (longer the better? for better cleaning? or not? lol another common misconception.....) - then turn it on, and take it for the spin to get all the gunk out...
THEN, take it back to the garage, and run it through the PCV valve/line, and repeat.
Would be interesting anyways, to see if the car still smokes....obviously, if it still smokes when added through the other line, the first line used must not feed all cylinders....or, the seafoam just doesn't get the chance to make it to all the cylinders even?
As far as Chicoloco's pinging when at high RPMs.....could be crappy oil (don't want to be mean, don't take it personal).
I know on my Optima, I always got a slight ping when I would start up the car "cold" (yea....here in Florida, where our "cold" is maybe 65-70 degrees in the morning? lol) in the mornings, but after making it to my first stop sign, the pinging stopped....what I was told is likely too heavy of oil, it's not making it to the top of the piston, so it's causing the ping.
I fixed my cold start pinging with seafoam in the crankcase (7 fl. oz. @ 1.5 oz per quart of oil) - so I'm thinking perhaps you should try increasing your oil weight, obviously don't go higher than what your owners manual recommends though....
As far as the questions about changing the oil after sea foaming - some recommend it, some say it's not necessary. The ones that recommend it say that the seafoam treatment (yes, even if you only run thru the intake or the gas tank..) can supposedly dislodge "sludge" and varnish, that could potentially get lodged into your oil/filter and also "thin out" the oil...but there's mixed reviews, as it is the seafoam sites states that the seafoam can safely be used IN the crankcase, either POST (after) oil change, or PRE (before) oil change - but if you choose to do it POST oil change, you have to monitor the oil color for darkened oil, if it gets to dark, then it's time to change it. But they say specifically to not run it in the crankcase more than 3000 miles....
Their reasoning is seafoam is actually an oil and petroleum product, which makes it safe in the oil. and can be confirmed by the MSDS sheets...but what you gotta be weary of is the sludge/varnish that gets dislodged after the treatment.
Regarding the plugs/wires needing to be changed, I have heard scenarios on other forums about plugs/wires, even o2 censors "failing" after sea foam treatments, likely due to the sea foam not burning off the carbon completely, and the carbon gets "lodged" somewhere down the line. The concensus seems to be that "seafoam" didn't break the plugs/wires, it merely broke the camels back.
Something you could try is adding a dribble of seafoam down the spark plug holes, incase there's a buldup of gunk/carbon down there...
Good idea about resetting the ECU....I never thought of that idea, BUT, my only thought is, doing it AFTER you take your crazy ride around the neighborhood blowing the carbon out at high RPMs I've heard, resetting the ECU will put the vehicle in like a "re-learn mode" where it re-learns the driving style/technique or something, so if you go crazy driving, it could affect your mpg down the road potentially....?
And no, you don't have to change the oil twice....add the seafoam to your oil before your scheduled change....drive the car around (I drove mine to the oil change place....lol, like 20 miles away..), and then just let them do the complete LOF change....no problems.
I guess, if you're overly paranoid, you could do 2 oil changes, if you're afraid all the seafoam'ed (lol, a new word....) gunk doesn't make it out of the crankcase? As I've heard, it's near impossible to completely drain all oil....
BTW, what is an "MSP"? is that a mazda term only? Kinda curious...since some speculation now of "not using" the brake booster line IF you have this "MSP"...
Also, @zoompastu - I've heard adding "room temperature" seafoam into a "warmed up" (hot) crankcase, probably is not a good idea.....? It kinda makes sense.....could "spike" something, from going extreme hot running temperature, to having a "cold" substance induced into the crankcase?
Now, the intake, I can agree, let the car warm up first, so the car is hot and ready to take in the sea foam.
So basically, if you do the whole process together.
Add 1/3 of the can into the crankcase/oil first.
Add a whole can into the fuel tank (or figure out how many gallons you got left in your tank, and figure 1 oz. of sea foam per gallon....
And THEN, turn on the car, and use the rest of that first bottle (that you put in the crankcase, cause the crank case shouldn't need a full bottle....depending on your oil capacity, 1.5 oz. per quart...
Some say use the PCV, others say, no don't use the PCV valve it doesn't feed all cylinders, use the brake booster, and then the other way around lol....so confusing.I'm _thinking_ it may vary from car to car? Which vacuum line to use the seafoam in? It seems so anyways....but hell, why not do it through both lines, just to be sure you get it all? Any problems doing that? Now, let me rephrase, do the process through the brake booster first, adding the sea foam (1/3 of the can as per the instructions), shut off the engine, let it sit for 10-20 minutes (longer the better? for better cleaning? or not? lol another common misconception.....) - then turn it on, and take it for the spin to get all the gunk out...
THEN, take it back to the garage, and run it through the PCV valve/line, and repeat.
Would be interesting anyways, to see if the car still smokes....obviously, if it still smokes when added through the other line, the first line used must not feed all cylinders....or, the seafoam just doesn't get the chance to make it to all the cylinders even?
As far as Chicoloco's pinging when at high RPMs.....could be crappy oil (don't want to be mean, don't take it personal).
I know on my Optima, I always got a slight ping when I would start up the car "cold" (yea....here in Florida, where our "cold" is maybe 65-70 degrees in the morning? lol) in the mornings, but after making it to my first stop sign, the pinging stopped....what I was told is likely too heavy of oil, it's not making it to the top of the piston, so it's causing the ping.
I fixed my cold start pinging with seafoam in the crankcase (7 fl. oz. @ 1.5 oz per quart of oil) - so I'm thinking perhaps you should try increasing your oil weight, obviously don't go higher than what your owners manual recommends though....
As far as the questions about changing the oil after sea foaming - some recommend it, some say it's not necessary. The ones that recommend it say that the seafoam treatment (yes, even if you only run thru the intake or the gas tank..) can supposedly dislodge "sludge" and varnish, that could potentially get lodged into your oil/filter and also "thin out" the oil...but there's mixed reviews, as it is the seafoam sites states that the seafoam can safely be used IN the crankcase, either POST (after) oil change, or PRE (before) oil change - but if you choose to do it POST oil change, you have to monitor the oil color for darkened oil, if it gets to dark, then it's time to change it. But they say specifically to not run it in the crankcase more than 3000 miles....
Their reasoning is seafoam is actually an oil and petroleum product, which makes it safe in the oil. and can be confirmed by the MSDS sheets...but what you gotta be weary of is the sludge/varnish that gets dislodged after the treatment.
Regarding the plugs/wires needing to be changed, I have heard scenarios on other forums about plugs/wires, even o2 censors "failing" after sea foam treatments, likely due to the sea foam not burning off the carbon completely, and the carbon gets "lodged" somewhere down the line. The concensus seems to be that "seafoam" didn't break the plugs/wires, it merely broke the camels back.
Something you could try is adding a dribble of seafoam down the spark plug holes, incase there's a buldup of gunk/carbon down there...
Good idea about resetting the ECU....I never thought of that idea, BUT, my only thought is, doing it AFTER you take your crazy ride around the neighborhood blowing the carbon out at high RPMs
I've heard, resetting the ECU will put the vehicle in like a "re-learn mode" where it re-learns the driving style/technique or something, so if you go crazy driving, it could affect your mpg down the road potentially....?And no, you don't have to change the oil twice....add the seafoam to your oil before your scheduled change....drive the car around (I drove mine to the oil change place....lol, like 20 miles away..), and then just let them do the complete LOF change....no problems.
I guess, if you're overly paranoid, you could do 2 oil changes, if you're afraid all the seafoam'ed (lol, a new word....) gunk doesn't make it out of the crankcase? As I've heard, it's near impossible to completely drain all oil....
BTW, what is an "MSP"? is that a mazda term only? Kinda curious...since some speculation now of "not using" the brake booster line IF you have this "MSP"...
Also, @zoompastu - I've heard adding "room temperature" seafoam into a "warmed up" (hot) crankcase, probably is not a good idea.....?
It kinda makes sense.....could "spike" something, from going extreme hot running temperature, to having a "cold" substance induced into the crankcase?Now, the intake, I can agree, let the car warm up first, so the car is hot and ready to take in the sea foam.
So basically, if you do the whole process together.
Add 1/3 of the can into the crankcase/oil first.
Add a whole can into the fuel tank (or figure out how many gallons you got left in your tank, and figure 1 oz. of sea foam per gallon....
And THEN, turn on the car, and use the rest of that first bottle (that you put in the crankcase, cause the crank case shouldn't need a full bottle....depending on your oil capacity, 1.5 oz. per quart...
bontrager_steel
Member
- :
- 2002 P5
30seconds of smoke
Hey guys, I hope someone can point me in the right direction. Just bought a used 2000 P5 2.0liter with 100K on the odometer. If it matters it does have sport package.
Was mostly dealer serviced (even for tie rod ends). Timing belt was done.
I replaced spark plugs, new air filter, removed and cleaned the throttle body, removed and cleaned the EGR, ran seafoam through the engine (twice), through the gas tank (once), and through the PCV valve once.
Everything has improved the throttle response and idle stability. But, when I bought the car it would blow white smoke for 10-30 seconds after start up. All of the above has not corrected the issue, and seems to be getting worse.
I am planning on trying seafoam through the intake again, and perhaps replacing the PCV valve. Any other suggestions?
Looks almost same as o.g.sk8er's pic on page 12 when he was running seafoam.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks -
Tom
Hey guys, I hope someone can point me in the right direction. Just bought a used 2000 P5 2.0liter with 100K on the odometer. If it matters it does have sport package.
Was mostly dealer serviced (even for tie rod ends). Timing belt was done.
I replaced spark plugs, new air filter, removed and cleaned the throttle body, removed and cleaned the EGR, ran seafoam through the engine (twice), through the gas tank (once), and through the PCV valve once.
Everything has improved the throttle response and idle stability. But, when I bought the car it would blow white smoke for 10-30 seconds after start up. All of the above has not corrected the issue, and seems to be getting worse.
I am planning on trying seafoam through the intake again, and perhaps replacing the PCV valve. Any other suggestions?
Looks almost same as o.g.sk8er's pic on page 12 when he was running seafoam.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks -
Tom
Apparently, I had the same issue with my MX6 (after Seafoaming through PCV and installing the protege intake cam). For more than 10.000 km in hald a year, every morning I smoke`d the neighborhood. Now, without a major change, it's gone. No idea about the reason, maybe some leftover in the intake manifold?? I just recently had some high speed passages with WOT (Autobahn, you know ;-) , maybe that fixed it?!
Though we might need an extra thread for...
Though we might need an extra thread for...
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newbie question.. what's a seafoam look like? can anyone post a photo? i had back read all 13 pages.. looking for a step by step procedure with photos, i would like to do this too on my 93' 626 FS engine with no vics with 134thousand kms .. im a liitle bit confuse while im reading other's procedures
thanks
thanks
put in Seafoam today! i used the 1/3-erds for each place...my car never stalled tho from the brake booster being out, even after a couple of min...weird
anywho- my car feels amazing!!! a little better idle, much smoother acceleration, and almost no hesitation between shifting at all!!!
i'm going to change my oil tomorrow and hoping that the seafoam has slowed my oil burning problem too.
i really like this product and would prob use it once a year!
anywho- my car feels amazing!!! a little better idle, much smoother acceleration, and almost no hesitation between shifting at all!!!
i'm going to change my oil tomorrow and hoping that the seafoam has slowed my oil burning problem too.
i really like this product and would prob use it once a year!
protege321
Member
- :
- 02 Protege DX
Okay guys, the last time I did this, I used the brake booster line ( i think) and sucked up some of the sea foam. The car struggled, as it usually does. Once the seafoam was sucked up, I reattached the brake booster line, killed the engine via the keys.... but the car keeps running... for about 10 seconds. THEN, the brake booster line SHOOTS off where i had just attached it, and THEN the car dies. whiskey tango foxtrot happend? cars been running great so far...
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