eibach springs tokico blue probs..

hooped

Member
Hi, I've been lurking here for a while now, there is a lot of good info and nice looking p5s here.
Anyway, I have an '03 laser blue p5 and I just decided to install eibach pro-kit springs and tokico blues. The front went pretty smooth but on the back left when I put the strut together and tried to install it, the bottom and top are about an eighth of a turn out of line, when I had the top mounted in the car I had to try to turn the bottom to get the brackets to line up, I almost got together but I didn't want to put it together like that with it all bound up. I am reusing the stock rubber spring seats and bump stops, I tried to take the strut apart and put it back together, it felt like everything was lined up right but I had the same problem again. The bottom of the spring is in the perch, but I cant really tell if the top is or not.

Any help I can get is desperately needed.

Thanks

Well, it sounds pretty obvious, but I wound up taking the strut apart and putting it back together so it lined up better. The thing that confused me was that the fronts could be turned so they lined up after they were assembled but the rear ones wouldn't turn at all. When I put it together in the first place I tried to line up the marks from the old spring with the new spring in the top piece.

It's back together and drives straight, it actually rides better than it did stock.(2thumbs)
 
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It's a great setup! I had mine installed, as I don't have the time / patience to do it myself. That, and I'd rather pay and have it done right... warranty and all. I don't trust myself! You'll love the ride and handling, a really great combo on the P5.
hooped said:
Hi, I've been lurking here for a while now, there is a lot of good info and nice looking p5s here.
Anyway, I have an '03 laser blue p5 and I just decided to install eibach pro-kit springs and tokico blues. The front went pretty smooth but on the back left when I put the strut together and tried to install it, the bottom and top are about an eighth of a turn out of line, when I had the top mounted in the car I had to try to turn the bottom to get the brackets to line up, I almost got together but I didn't want to put it together like that with it all bound up. I am reusing the stock rubber spring seats and bump stops, I tried to take the strut apart and put it back together, it felt like everything was lined up right but I had the same problem again. The bottom of the spring is in the perch, but I cant really tell if the top is or not.

Any help I can get is desperately needed.

Thanks

Well, it sounds pretty obvious, but I wound up taking the strut apart and putting it back together so it lined up better. The thing that confused me was that the fronts could be turned so they lined up after they were assembled but the rear ones wouldn't turn at all. When I put it together in the first place I tried to line up the marks from the old spring with the new spring in the top piece.

It's back together and drives straight, it actually rides better than it did stock.(2thumbs)
 
the fronts can turn because the whole assembly HAS to turn when you turn your steering wheel

if you want to line s*** up right, get a ruler, then compress the springs... line up your s***, then slowly release the springs while making any minor adjustments along the way and use the ruler again to make sure it's lined up afterwards
 
hey theman,

i'm really startin to get sick of your language. clean it up a bit. This is 2 threads in 2 days now. I work in a mechanics shop and have for the last 4 years. I hear it day in and day out, don't need to come home and see it too.

thanks

matt
 
hey theman,

i'm really startin to get sick of your language. clean it up a bit. This is 2 threads in 2 days now. I work in a mechanics shop and have for the last 4 years. I hear it day in and day out, don't need to come home and see it too.

thanks

matt
 
TheMAN said:
the fronts can turn because the whole assembly HAS to turn when you turn your steering wheel

if you want to line s*** up right, get a ruler, then compress the springs... line up your s***, then slowly release the springs while making any minor adjustments along the way and use the ruler again to make sure it's lined up afterwards

Yeah, like I said, it seems obvious after the fact but I've never done struts before and all the how-tos I found never really went into detail about re-assembly. I paid more attention to the right one when I took it apart and it went together a lot easier.

A shop I went to wanted $528 for installation and an alignment, so I decided to try it myself. The info in this forum made it go MUCH smoother than if I would have just rolled up my sleeves and dug in (no emergency trips on my motorcycle for tools or parts:D ).
 
urbanbiker said:
hey theman,

i'm really startin to get sick of your language. clean it up a bit. This is 2 threads in 2 days now. I work in a mechanics shop and have for the last 4 years. I hear it day in and day out, don't need to come home and see it too.

thanks

matt

I don't see YOU trying to help him out
if you have a problem, don't reply and don't even read this s***
(getout)

nice double posts btw
 
Might be a little late now,but u should shorten the bump stops when doing this install.
 
Crazee D said:
Might be a little late now,but u should shorten the bump stops when doing this install.

Yeah, it is a little late. I was wondering about that too, but I couldn't find anywhere where it said to do that. If I start to have problems I suppose I can go back in and do that, but I did the swap more for the look than performance, so maybe I won't drive it hard enough to bottom it out ( I can hope, anyway).
 
if you put on lowering springs and don't cut the bump stops you WILL hit them. it's just a matter of time...drive quickly on a bumpy road and you'll feel the supreme harshness of a SOLID suspension. just go back in there now and fix it or you'll end up doing it later.
 
hahaha. (lean back, roll eyes up, drool) pusssyyyyyy hhmmmmm

ok now on to serious matters, how much should the bump stops need to be shortened? I didnt shorten mine when I did the same blues and pros install. Does it need to be done with regular pros as well? I'm getting thumping sounds in the back and it looks like I might have my rear rubber mounts bunched up at least from reading the forum. I'm gonna go in there but if I need to shorten the bump stops might as well do it at the smae time. anyways
How much should I shorten them by? the fronts are good, no noise or anything but the rears did look a little longer and I'm still not 100% sure as to where the sounds is really coming from.
 
The tokico sheet says to shorten them a third to half (max) the bumpstop length if needed for extra suspension travel.

I actually did look at the sheet but kind of quit paying attention after it said installation should be done by a professional. I did see the part about reusing the stock dust boots though.
 
I didnt really pay attention to the material the bumpstops are made of, but they can be cut with a knife right?
 
Huascar82 said:
I didnt really pay attention to the material the bumpstops are made of, but they can be cut with a knife right?

Yeah, I believe so. I've seen pictures of people cutting them with hack-saws also, but I think a knife with a serrated edge would work too.
 
hooped said:
The tokico sheet says to shorten them a third to half (max) the bumpstop length if needed for extra suspension travel.
I actually did look at the sheet but kind of quit paying attention after it said installation should be done by a professional. I did see the part about reusing the stock dust boots though.

^^^^ pussy?
 
Crazee D said:
^^^^ pussy?

Well ok, I would have used the instructions if they had been more detailed. I just kind of get defensive when I get caught making stupid errors. (lol2) Sarcasm is kind of hard to convey on these forums without knowing the individual personaly.

I'm at least staying consistent with my history of mechanical projects and having to do everything at least two or three times before I get it right(bang) .
 
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