Wheel removal

ChopstickHero said:
put some anti-seize compound on the hub and it will prevent the wheel from sticking next time.

Hmm. With nothing between the wheel and the hub when the lug nuts are tightened down there will be a tremendous amount of friction on that flat interface and this will take essentially all of the perpendicular load off the bolts holding the wheel on. If a perfect lubricant (no such thing obviously) was smeared across that interface first then those bolts would be taking the entire perpendicular load. Anti-seize is going to fall somewhere in between these extremes. I wonder though if it might act as enough of a lubricant to put a significant strain on the bolts? That might not be a good thing in the long run.
 
aMaff said:
so getting new rims will scare the old ones into submission? :p

I've had issues w/ em after auto-x's (heat + different metals = bind), but nothing a swift kick (or 2 or 3) couldn't fix. Anyway, I think the rubber mallet would be a good ideeer, but I've never tried the water thing. Could do the trick!

thought you were in jail?

they gave you more posts? j/k.

so they seazed on after 1 auto-X event? wow.......i thought it took time!

i have never tried the water idea chris......then again, i don't use my stock rims anymore.....

-R
 
All this kicking and hammering seems like something is going to break! Since its the back wheel its ok, but its more of a no no for the front wheels cuz u would probably mess up ur alignment.

I helped out xdarkyx with this problem and messed up the front alignment from the kicking and the pulling. 3 out of the 4 wheels were stuck. (ughdance)

Best bet is to get a nice long pole, stick one end onto a suspension component, such as the trailing links, and use that as leverage to pry/push off the wheel. This way u get lots of steady force with out the risk of messing up the alignment.
 
Hmm. With nothing between the wheel and the hub when the lug nuts are tightened down there will be a tremendous amount of friction on that flat interface and this will take essentially all of the perpendicular load off the bolts holding the wheel on. If a perfect lubricant (no such thing obviously) was smeared across that interface first then those bolts would be taking the entire perpendicular load. Anti-seize is going to fall somewhere in between these extremes. I wonder though if it might act as enough of a lubricant to put a significant strain on the bolts? That might not be a good thing in the long run.

Interesting point, but even without antiseize, the bolts will be taking most of the strain, surely?
 
pasadena_commut said:
Hmm. With nothing between the wheel and the hub when the lug nuts are tightened down there will be a tremendous amount of friction on that flat interface and this will take essentially all of the perpendicular load off the bolts holding the wheel on. If a perfect lubricant (no such thing obviously) was smeared across that interface first then those bolts would be taking the entire perpendicular load. Anti-seize is going to fall somewhere in between these extremes. I wonder though if it might act as enough of a lubricant to put a significant strain on the bolts? That might not be a good thing in the long run.

I believe our wheels are hubcentric, so there isn't any guessing needed when bolting down the wheels. the wheels are centered by the center part of the hub. that's why some people prefer hubcentric aftermarket rims, so that there won't be any shifting of the wheel which causes strain/pressure against the studs. Notice in the pic, that the hub extends past the rotor. So anti-seize won't "slide" the wheel off center and cause strain on the wheel studs.

Picture borrowed from HorsepowerFreak:
on_rear_1.jpg
 
ChopstickHero said:
I believe our wheels are hubcentric

In that case it should be safe to put a thin layer of antisieze on the hub since the lateral forces will be at least partially carried by the curved part of the hub where it touches the inside of the wheel. When the wheels get stuck is it because dirt/rust/whatever is getting up into the narrow cylindrical space between the wheel and the hub and wedging the two together? That might explain why the hot water method works. The hot water dissolves some of this dreck, which releases the wedge, and then the wheel comes off easily.
 
I had the same case with my rotors when I was trying to take them of 2 weeks ago. Original rotors were still on there after 3 and a half years. Rubber mallet, ball pein hammer, just wouldn't do it. I was replacing them so I went to town on em til they looked like s***. They were rusted onto the hub so bad!! There was a little threaded hole on the rotor that I happened to find a bolt that fit it. Tightening that as it hit the hub broke it loose and I put some anti-seize on there to stop it from happening again!

Our cars are not the best when it comes to the regular maintenance. The original parts like to fuse together!
 
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