Bye bye Old Bose system!

PerfectXtreme

Member
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Mazdaspeed6 GT
I'm upgrading my Speed6 factory Bose system speakers (Leaving stock deck)...

Upgrading or changing the audio in a speed6 is quite a task! Unless you are willing to ditch the in-dash LCD... and steering wheel controls... By installing a dash kit and after market headunit...

The boys and I here in salem have found a way to keep the factory deck.. but replace the rest of the system with just about anything you could possibly want!

Details on the job:

JL Cleansweep - Used to pull a signal off the deck... and provide F/R L/R RCA outputs... as well as an aux input (iPod for example)...

Once the Cleansweep is installed... the factory amps are ditched... and need to be replaced with your own... 4 channel... and most likely a mono block for any subs you might want...

I'm having the following installed:
4 Infinity Kappa's
2 MTX 12's
Kenwood 4-ch amp
Diamond Mono Block 800.1
iPod remote setup controls + remote LCD

WARNING: For those who are interested in this! The mazda 6 is built like a TANK! You can't just start popping pannels off and running wires around like some honda.
 
Bose System

No High?
No Low?
Must be Bose!

Thats supposed to rhyme or something... My stereo guy here told it to me... fits pretty well. The stock bose system doesn't have much in the way of high treble.. or low bass. The factory sub rumbles a little.. but it doesn't kick.. or hit at all. I AM NOT GETTING A PILE OF CRAP SPL system for those that might think it... Enclosed 12's... for quick response.

Anyway... The interior of the Speed6 is PERFECT... everything but the audio system... which i'm fixing... I'll work a bit on the outside sometime soon... Need to check into warranty issues... 10 / 100 from the dealership... I don't wanna lose too much of my warranty over worthless mods.
 
The CleanSweep really bugs me. Sure it has the functionality to automatically correct the output from your factory deck...but it stops there. That's it.

I would much rather see people spend their money on something like the AudioControl EQS which is a 1 octave EQ in addition to a LOC. If you want to spend more money (which you probably do if you are considering the CleanSweep) then you could use an AudioControl LC6/DQXS combo. This will give you endless EQing and crossover possibilities.

I considered all of these options with my Protege5 but the fact remains that even if you get a flat signal, the sound quality and sound clarity is still mediocre. It simply cannot compare to an equally priced aftermarket headunit. So the decision remains...SQ or Asthetics
 
I hope so!

For the money i'm spending on this system... It better sound DAMN good. I am actually going to sound quality.... for example.. sealed box for my subs... Dynomat EVERYTHING...

If i'm not happy with the job... or the equipment... I'm sure going to let them know... and if no other options are available... return the equipment.. and figure something else out...

Spending over 3000 total... For that much money it better be perfect!
 
for cleaner bass, you should go with a single sub instead of 2, if you are indeed going for sound quality
 
For ultimate SQ (ie flat response down to 20Hz) you would need several large subwoofers in an Infinite Baffle / Free-Air installation.

You're paying $3000 for that? How much of that is for the equipment and how much is for the install? You could do alot better for that kind of money.
 
Price Breakdown

I might be off on some of the numbers but from what I can remember...

Kenwood 4-ch Amp: $299.95
Diamond 800.1 Amp: $350
Cleansweep EQ: $299.94
6" Kappa + Tweeters: $299.94
6" Kappa For Rear : $149.95
MTX 12's x2 : $300 Total
Custom Sealed Box: $200
Amp Rack: $100
RCA's for Amps + Cleansweep: $130
4-guage wire + installs: $130
--------------------------------------------
Total so far: $2260

Dynomat Car Kit: $250
Install Dynomat: $100 - HUGE deal for entire call install
iPod setup: $200
iPod setup install: $100
------------------------------------------------
Final Total so far: $2900


This is just a rough guess and price on things.... But as you can see stuff adds up quickly... From the shop rates and my past experiences... they've cut me quite a few deals and corners...

If anyone thinks this is wrong... or i'm bein cheated... Help me figure this out.... I haven't gotten the car back yet... so if I'm not happy they'll take it back anyway... BUT... if I can show that i'm being overcharged out the ass on things left and right.... or I can do much better with other stuff for the same price.... Nows the time to figure it out!
 
It looks about right to me. I've been a DIY'er all my life so it's hard to comprehend how much the labor will cost for what seems to be a fairly straight forward install.

So basically you're looking at $1700 in gear. The cost of RCA's, wiring accessories, and the IPOD setup seems a bit steep to me but the $500 to install everything isn't bad.

I'm not crazy about the amps and speakers in your setup but let me see if I can do better.
 
Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 Multi-Channel Amp (50x4) $239
Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Component Speaker System $400
Infinity Kappa 62.7i 2-Way Speaker $150
Rockford Fosgate Punch P8002 2-Channel Amp (800x1) $520
2 Image Dynamics IDQ12 D4 v.2 Subwoofers $360
Stinger Custom Pro SWK4D Amplifier Wiring Kit $60
3 Stinger Bullet Series SBT17 Interconnect Signal Cable $72
about 100ft Stinger HPM Twisted SWX16BLU Speaker Wire $45
(there's cheaper wire if you are interested)
Total from CarDomain: $1,850

CleanSweep $300 (although I still don't recommend it)
Dynomat $250
Ipod adapter $200 (is it really this much????)
Brings total equipment to: $2600

Box $200
Amp rack $100
Front speakers install $50
Rear speakers install $50
Amps install $200
Dynamat install $100
Ipod install $100 (outrageous...it prolly just plugs in)
Total labor: $800

Grand total: $3400.

Ok, I went over, but you'd be getting top of the line infinity components, quality amps, and a pair of arguably the best SQ subwoofers made.

However, I would do things differently if it were me. First, I would scratch the rear speakers and spend that extra $150 to upgrade to a really nice set of components ($550 can buy you a pair of DLS Ultimate UR6S components). Then you could ditch the 4-ch amp and get a higher-power 2-ch amp (75-125w/ch).

Finally, I wouldn't bother with the CleanSweep but instead get an AudioControl EQS for around the same price.
 
Huh?

Quality? In all my research... sound testing... and probably every stereo install shop within 100 miles that I talked with... Kicker.. "Punch" equipment is HORRIBLE... They make it cheap and pretty with teeth and fancy designs to make it sell.. But as for sound quality... Some of it is good if you want DB's in a stereo comp. Which isn't what i'm going for...

Anyway. System has been installed... and 'works' accept for the iPod s***... We are still working to figure that out... the company who makes the iPod setup claims if the device drops below 12v it will auto-shut down... That can cause problems in most vehicles as unless the engine is running... current often drops below that mark... at least that what i'm being told....

Anyway... It sounded PERFECT when i left the shop... best system i've ever had... or driven in...

But within last day or two... i've started to hear a rattle.. or what sounds like a torn speaker.... that has been getting worse.... and engine noise started up...

I'll be going back into the shop this next week to work with them more...
 
System installed for about a week now... My notes....

First.. The iPod stuff still isn't working or finished yet... We have yet to figure out a good place to mount the screen... and control... And even then.. the system has problems running on a CAR voltage setup... go figure? its made for a car.. yet doesn't run if the voltage drops below X... which X is quite high voltage rating for a vehicle to be running 24/7...

I think most vehicles drop below 11.9 volts or somethin unless the engine is turned on.. basically the iPod setup won't work if engine isn't running we think... So might have them un-install and buy the s*** back.. we'll see..


Second... At least one or two of my door speakers 'rattles'... Doesn't sound like plastic door mounting rattle... rather.. sounds like the speaker is torn ... or "broken"... If we can't get it fixed... something soon i'm going to have them buy the entire system back from me... and i'll go elsewhere...

For 2600 in equipment from them... and the 800 in amps I got elsewhere... I should get everything PERFECT...

Also... there is a slight... high pitch whine... when everything is turned off / down (can't hear it if stereo is running)... we don't think it is engine noise.. as it doesn't change at all if the engine is off.. on.. or reved up... Seems like an amp... crossover problem most likely....
 
I didn't see a capacitor (sp?) in your equipment list...that will help with the voltage drops...

I am sure they put one in though with that amount of wattage...
 
PerfectXtreme said:
No High?
No Low?
Must be Bose!

I think that's supposed to be:

No Highs
No Lows so it must be Bose.

And sadly, it is very very true. First thing I'd do if I got the speed is rip that crap out of it.
 
I think the bose engineers simply forget to take the car on the road during their testing.

They usually provide enough bass and treble for the car sitting in a show-room (at low listening levels), but as soon as you turn the car on and get up to 35mph your bass is gone and once you open the windows...there goes your treble.
 
Back to topic... After about 2-3 weeks of stereo... i'm quite happy... A few people have shown alternate DSP's which might have been a better choice over the JL CleanSweep.. but its too late now.. and what I have is working so I won't complain...

However... I still have a horrible problem with rattle in my door speakers... At low bass... "quiet" sections in songs... Can be noticed during hard bass and/or louder sections of songs but its more difficult...

The rear deck (near where the factory sub was) rattles pretty bad... In damn near any car I think you have this problem... I'll try and dynomat some more of the car and see if that cleans it up...

As for the speaker rattles... I know its not the plastic door pannel... unless its attached incorrectly... Sounds as if the speaker is torn or broken... Once i get back home from springbreak (yes i know.. very VERY extended one).... i'll hook back up with my installer and run through everything again...

I'm very happy I stuck with the factory deck... I get the neat.. clean.. sporty look of the stock Speed6 console... with the Bass.. mids.. and Highs of a quality system... And once my iPod stuff is hooked up and working 100%.... I'll have MP3's to boot!

Pretty lame that a car like this... with a "BOSE" super system... and all the hype they give it... that it doesn't play MP3 cd's...

Hell.. 17,000 scions come with iPod adaptors... and I think even have optional stereo that supports MP3's... (not 100% on that second part).. And yes... 6-disk is nice.. but still nothing like mp3 cd's... Specially when you've been using them in your previous car...
 
What high-pass frequency do you have your door speakers crossed over at? With 2 12's in the back, you shouldn't even have anything lower than about 150-200Hz going to the door speakers. That's what I would check first.
 
150Hz???? I'm guessing your car doesn't exactly have up-front-bass.

Subs mounted in a trunk are only good for about 90Hz max before they start to make your midbass sound dull and lifeless. If you have 6.5" or 6x8" speakers up front you should be crossing over at 50-80Hz. Otherwise you're wasting your investment on quality speakers. If you have 5.25"s you should bump it up to 90-120. I'd only recommend 150Hz if you only had 4" speakers up front.

It's ok to overlap your crossover points also. You could run your fronts at 70Hz HP and your subs at 80Hz LP. Some people even have good results with leaving a small valley such as HP at 60Hz and LP at 40Hz.

It all depends on the acoustics of your car and how well you deaden your front doors. I always recommend a layer of dynamat if you are going to drop below 80Hz up front. It's worth it though. Lowering the crossover point of your subs means you can turn the gain up a little higher to get that real low end extension. You in effect remove the peak operating frequencies (50-90Hz) in order to let the sub pound out the subsonic frequencies (20-40Hz) and gently roll off into the midbass which is coming from your front speakers. When done correctly the effect is seamless.

FYI, I'm running my fronts at 50Hz HP and my subs at 50Hz LP.
 
I'm running Dynaudio MW160's (7"mid) in the front doors of my speed6. I have them x-over'd @ 80 @ 24db with a JL 300/4. I have plenty of mid bass and had a rattle also. I removed the door panel and didn't see very much metal to apply my deadener to (mostly plastic). There is another panel built into the door that I removed and saw a thin long piece of aluminum used in the window mechanism. I applied some fatmat to the aluminum piece and it made a world of difference on the rattle. The door is still going to resonate no matter what, but it did help a lot!
 
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