P5 225-250HP options for dummies...

C

chuyler1

goes to eleven
:
2013 CX-9
Let me preface this with, I did use the search feature and I have read quite a bit already. However, so many people have different opinions it is tough to get a straight answer. I'm pretty sure no one here has broken the 200HP barrier N/A so this is obviously job for F/I.

Right now I see the following options:
MAM Sleeper Kit: $3795
MAM Thumper Kit (T3/T4): $3795
HiBoost Kit: $3795

The problem is that none of these kits appear to be an end-all plug-and-play solution. As far as EMS goes, it appears that it is a must. People can skimp by with a voltage clamp but I don't see anyone on this board who is happy with that solution (correct me if I'm wrong). I have heard that an MPI and a Wideband O2 are essential for getting a proper tune and will help pass emmissions. If I were to add this to my setup how would that affect your recommendations? I see that the HiBoost kit comes with the Haltech but I'm not sure whether anyone has gotten it to pass emmissions.

I also know that just about everyone who installs a turbo adds gauges (which are not included in any of the kits). Obviously I will want a boost gauge but I don't know what other gauges will be necessary.

Furthermore, some of these kits won't reach full potential without aftermarket exhaust components and other items.

So with all that into consideration and the fact that I have a completely stock P5, what do I need to get to 225-250HP and how much is it going to cost me? The solution must be reliable for every day driving, emmissions passable, and include everything I need. I don't want a project car, I want 250HP bolted on and ready to go.
 
If you go with the mpi, get the extra injectors. Tuning is so simple with those bad boys.
 
With my Hiboost kit with Haltech F10 or with the F10X you can wire a switch or plug connectors like I have done and switch from Haltech controlled (will not pass emmissions to Stock ECU controlled fuel (pass) as long as you relocate the second 02 sensor to after the cat as with any other set-up. Juan also sells the switch box to do this if needed. I believe most stand alone fuel systems switch injection from sequential to multiport which I don't think will ever pass emmisions as far as OBDII reads it. You will need to upgrade you're clutch and could always do an electric exhaust cut out for much cheaper. Boost Guage and I am ordering myself a wideband 02 and J&S for safety measures. I am at 10psi with 2-1/2 turbo back around 230whp to be verified after J&S (stock mid-pipe with cat for inspection time). Spinning tires into 4th gear is more than plenty for me.
Kit+clutch+boost guage+2psi carburator spring on the wastegate+exhaust=$4600
+j&S+wideband=$5400
also definately need motor mounts to eliminate wheel hop.
made mine at work with 2-part polyurethane=$0
 
When you modify a stock Protege, nothing will be as simple as plug n play. The fact that the car was built as an N/A car will create some items that need to be addressed for longevity, and reliability. One of the best solutions for you (since you are looking for about 225 HP) would be to get would be to find someone who is getting rid of their stock MPS (MSP) setup, and buy that. The only drawback to that is that you will have to change a few things if you want a true MSP setup like it is designed to be. Moeed is the expert in that area.

Two more kits that come to mind are the HiBoost and the MAM Sleeper kit. I have seen both in action, and can say without a doubt that the HiBoost would probably be idea for you as the sleeper would have too much power locked away by being limited to 225 HP. You won't even be in the efficiency range of the GT28RS! I'm not saying the HiBoost is weak by any stretch of the imagination (because it is NOT at all!), but for what you want, and the completeness of the kit, this is your best bet. It is reliable, and works well from all the kits I have seen in the DFW.
 
Last edited:
shane02pro5 said:
With my Hiboost kit with Haltech F10 or with the F10X you can wire a switch or plug connectors like I have done and switch from Haltech controlled (will not pass emmissions to Stock ECU controlled fuel (pass) as long as you relocate the second 02 sensor to after the cat as with any other set-up. Juan also sells the switch box to do this if needed. I believe most stand alone fuel systems switch injection from sequential to multiport which I don't think will ever pass emmisions as far as OBDII reads it. You will need to upgrade you're clutch and could always do an electric exhaust cut out for much cheaper. Boost Guage and I am ordering myself a wideband 02 and J&S for safety measures. I am at 10psi with 2-1/2 turbo back around 230whp to be verified after J&S (stock mid-pipe with cat for inspection time). Spinning tires into 4th gear is more than plenty for me.
Kit+clutch+boost guage+2psi carburator spring on the wastegate+exhaust=$4600
+j&S+wideband=$5400
also definately need motor mounts to eliminate wheel hop.
made mine at work with 2-part polyurethane=$0
Click to expand...
Thats next on my list too. (thumb)
 
Thanks Shane for the price breakdown. That helps put things into perspective.

Linux, Assuming I can get a MSP setup (including ECU) for a decent price, what else would I need to bring the output to 225-250HP? If in fact MSP kits are available it leads me to believe that people aren't happy with what they were given to work with and I'm better sticking with something like the hi-boost kit.

225-250HP isn't exactly set in stone. I'm just trying to find a happy medium between turboing and maintaining drivability. I'm not looking to put numbers on the board at the drag strip, I just want more all-around pickup.
 
chuyler1 said:
People can skimp by with a voltage clamp but I don't see anyone on this board who is happy with that solution (correct me if I'm wrong).
Click to expand...

This depends on how much money you want to spend and how much power you want to acheive. I'm running modest boost (which still breaks summer tires loose throughout second gear) and i'm using a voltage clamp and fmu (and have been for a full two years). I don't know if that solution will work for the kits you are looking at, but in certain applications, it seems to work just fine. Plus, I have passed emission testing in the province of Ontario (www.driveclean.com) with flying colours with this set up.

Good luck with your decision!

edit: i upgraded my clutch and exhaust...the clutch is necessary imo, but the exhaust is optional (although it DID free up a lot of power).
 
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What kit did you start with? Or more importantly, do you have a breakdown of everything you spent? Thanks.
 
Our kit is not $3,795.00 it is $3,600.00 and we now have the same kit with no fuel management and it is $3,000.00. You can go with an FMU which is $125.00 from us. Like Shane said, we now offer the electric system to go from stock to Haltech by the touch of a switch.(thumb)
 
NOOOOOOOOOO....!!

Get Engine Management!

Don't skimp on modifications. I have learned that you will regret it in the longrun.
 
I understand. I was just stating my experience. The FMU will work for lower boost apps if done right.
 
HiBoost TS said:
Our kit is not $3,795.00 it is $3,600.00 and we now have the same kit with no fuel management and it is $3,000.00. You can go with an FMU which is $125.00 from us. Like Shane said, we now offer the electric system to go from stock to Haltech by the touch of a switch.(thumb)
Click to expand...
Time to update your website then. The only number I found was $3795.00...
http://www.hiboost.com/kits.html

So $3125.00 for a kit with the FMU. How much boost (and therefore how much power) can I run on that sort of setup?
 
chuyler1 said:
Time to update your website then. The only number I found was $3795.00...
http://www.hiboost.com/kits.html

So $3125.00 for a kit with the FMU. How much boost (and therefore how much power) can I run on that sort of setup?
Click to expand...

Yes I know, the web site is being re done at this time and should be up anytime. We are bringing a lot more options for those who want to do their own project on boosting their cars.

You can run safely up to 7 psi with an FMU on 93 octane. or 6 on 91 ocatne fuel. We do recommend to go with the ECU, but it depends on what you want.
 
HiBoost TS said:
Our kit is not $3,795.00 it is $3,600.00 and we now have the same kit with no fuel management and it is $3,000.00. You can go with an FMU which is $125.00 from us. Like Shane said, we now offer the electric system to go from stock to Haltech by the touch of a switch.(thumb)
Click to expand...

By just switching to stock control won't work, you still need drive cycles on the ECU to be able to even get tested. So you would have to switch and drive around non boost for a few hundred miles then get tested. It's great you did this though.

You will need to tune the MPI, so it's not PNP, but when tuned you will make great reliable power and pass any inspection. I have passed MD and AZ emissions with mine. You can also hit up MPNick and build a 200hp stroker N/A setup, check out his link....
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123623181 But you still would need an EMS to get it tuned right. No PnP system out there man,you will always need to do something to it.

I'll go with Linux here, sell yours and get an MSP (less things to do), then upgrade the exhaust, FMIC, MPI + xtra injectors, boost controller and you should be at 200+whp at 10psi or less. 10-12psi and you should be where you want. A J&S safeguard will help keep you safe from detonating, so it would be a great addition to ANY setup, especially if you up the boost that high. (thumb)
 
Chuyler I'll have my kit up for sale......I'm sure you've seen the kit in person at all the NEPOC meets also I passed Mass Emissions test...We can make it a NEPOC install day...


Jeremy
 
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