I'm thinking about getting a high output alternator

I did run a high output alternator, a 180 amp AC Delco unit to be percise. HOwever, the ECU had to be completely bypassed. This isn't all that hard really. The installer simply did not reconnect the factory harness to the ECU and instead tapped some damn wire up by the fire wall, behind the battery. I think this was just an ignition lead or something to that effect. I was stupid enough to never ask. I also had rewired all of the power wiring from the battery to fuse box and to the alternator.

Until I put on my turbo I had no problems other then the common battery indicator light as the ECU had no clue or control over what was going on. After the turbo though, wierd s*** started to happen with the idle and the car would stall if in nuetral for more then a second or 2. I was also getting CELs every day from various sensors not know what the hell to do with this beast's 15.5 volts of output.
During my return to stock, I removed the alternator and the idle stopped as did the CELs so what was actualy causing everything to go nutty I still don't know.

In trying to figure out what was wrong with the idle I took it to a dealer that said the ECU had lost the ground reference to the IAC valve. Turned out they were totaly full of s*** since after my battle with the mazda dealer to get the ECU under warrenty and after it was replaced, there was no change at all.
 
Joker_Fl said:
144db spl...whatever...i dont' do bass, so whatever you call it...sound quality is key (thumb) . But i wont knock the bass heads....they get the people to the shows, and usually throw the best afterparties.

ummmmmm but a spl test is part of a sq judging...
poke.gif


i heard zapco was coming out with a new DSP so i'm wondering if i should wait for that. i would get the alpine but doesnt it only work with alpine units?
 
SP33D said:
ummmmmm but a spl test is part of a sq judging... (poke)

i heard zapco was coming out with a new DSP so i'm wondering if i should wait for that. i would get the alpine but doesnt it only work with alpine units?


the spl portion is only in the lower classes, and it tops off at 135 dB.

i've been hearing about zapco coming out wth DSP for years now and still haven't seen it.
 
no you can use the alpine with the optional controller rux-c701 i beleive. I am using an iva d310 and still use the controller for the h701. Its just easier to use that way.
 
Joker_Fl said:
no you can use the alpine with the optional controller rux-c701 i beleive. I am using an iva d310 and still use the controller for the h701. Its just easier to use that way.


i heard the d310 interface with the h701 was better than the d300, which i'm not all that fond of. i was hoping that upgrading to the d310 will take care of that dilema. i was reserving that DD opening for a machined aluminum plate, not the c701(glare)
 
what dsp would u guys recommend.. i have the eclipse 55090 w/ 8v preouts. also DLS iridium 6.3's, i will have 2 12" idmax's, and 3 zapco amps to run full active or whatever its called where each speaker has it's own channel
 
SP33D said:
what dsp would u guys recommend.. i have the eclipse 55090 w/ 8v preouts. also DLS iridium 6.3's, i will have 2 12" idmax's, and 3 zapco amps to run full active or whatever its called where each speaker has it's own channel


does that eclipse have optical output? if so, the pxa-h701 would be a great choice. you'll have to control the volume through the rux-c701, though.
 
1sty said:
I did run a high output alternator, a 180 amp AC Delco unit to be percise. HOwever, the ECU had to be completely bypassed. This isn't all that hard really. The installer simply did not reconnect the factory harness to the ECU and instead tapped some damn wire up by the fire wall, behind the battery. I think this was just an ignition lead or something to that effect. I was stupid enough to never ask. I also had rewired all of the power wiring from the battery to fuse box and to the alternator.

Until I put on my turbo I had no problems other then the common battery indicator light as the ECU had no clue or control over what was going on. After the turbo though, wierd s*** started to happen with the idle and the car would stall if in nuetral for more then a second or 2. I was also getting CELs every day from various sensors not know what the hell to do with this beast's 15.5 volts of output.
During my return to stock, I removed the alternator and the idle stopped as did the CELs so what was actualy causing everything to go nutty I still don't know.

In trying to figure out what was wrong with the idle I took it to a dealer that said the ECU had lost the ground reference to the IAC valve. Turned out they were totaly full of s*** since after my battle with the mazda dealer to get the ECU under warrenty and after it was replaced, there was no change at all.

Holy crap, that sounds like a lot more work than it is truly worth. That would completely suck.
 
the d310's controll is better...but i still don't like it. I fiberglassed the c-701 in my headliner and work its magic from there....works nice. MMMM machined aluminum...bummer wake
 
So I more or less have a question, and thought this was the most appropriate category... My alternator died on me last week and after searching through the shop, I found a alternator off a 90'small b4000.. cutting to the gist is I'm wondering if that would work on my p5, I know it's higher amperage by 15, but curious if it will work and if so, cause any damage?
 
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