What have you done to your P5 today?

Since we’re doing milestone photos, here’s my daughter’s new MSP. We did a car swap (funny swapping a titanium MSP for a titanium MSP) and as I was getting ready to drive away she tells me “Im so close to 200 - just get a picture for me”

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Interesting. They may have been machined to fit. I've heard of people on here doing that for Lexus wheels. I've seen a few Proteges online with the STI BBS wheels so people must be willing to go through the hassle. If it were me, I'd go the Mitsubishi route, as the Evo Enkei wheels I believe do have the same bore and do come in some good sizes for the Protege.
Can confirm that Evo OZ / Enkei wheels do fit very nicely with a slight guard roll on the rear, especially if lowered. Bore is the same, Evo 5 (silver) wheels require square shouldered wheel nuts and washers.

Both photos at stock ride height, 17" versions of both wheels
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Changed out the passenger motor mount on my daughter’s MSP. It’s the 3rd Protege I’ve done this job on. Took about 15mins while taking pictures and cleaning as I went. The passenger mount alone was $42 and a full kit was $51 on Amazon. Make sure you get the kit where the passenger mount already had the “dog bone” pressed in.

HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART:
This car has a really good transaxle; no grinds and quiet. I noticed that sometimes there is a very mild “hitch” where it doesn’t want to move cleanly into 2nd on the 1-2 shift. Like if you are lazy and don’t pay attention, you will grind the syncro. BUT, after replacing this mount and also having front /rear AWR mounts, the engagement is much more positive and clean. I surmise that a large reason the trans in our cars have problems is less the trans and more the movement of the
 
Changed out the passenger motor mount on my daughter’s MSP. It’s the 3rd Protege I’ve done this job on. Took about 15mins while taking pictures and cleaning as I went. The passenger mount alone was $42 and a full kit was $51 on Amazon. Make sure you get the kit where the passenger mount already had the “dog bone” pressed in.

HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART:
This car has a really good transaxle; no grinds and quiet. I noticed that sometimes there is a very mild “hitch” where it doesn’t want to move cleanly into 2nd on the 1-2 shift. Like if you are lazy and don’t pay attention, you will grind the syncro. BUT, after replacing this mount and also having front /rear AWR mounts, the engagement is much more positive and clean. I surmise that a large reason the trans in our cars have problems is less the trans and more the movement of the
I've noticed the exact same thing with the 1-2 shift, and I think my 2nd gear syncro is starting to wear out from occasionally grinding 2nd like that.

My worst gripe with my P5 is those mounts. I've never been able to find a good balance between reasonable NVH and smooth shifts and smoothness on/off throttle. Drives me nuts, but not going to throw any more money at it.
 
I've noticed the exact same thing with the 1-2 shift, and I think my 2nd gear syncro is starting to wear out from occasionally grinding 2nd like that.

My worst gripe with my P5 is those mounts. I've never been able to find a good balance between reasonable NVH and smooth shifts and smoothness on/off throttle. Drives me nuts, but not going to throw any more money at it.
I've had good luck by replacing three of my four mounts so far with OEM ones, but they were spendy. While I drive spiritedly, I don't shift anywhere near aggressively, so maybe my needs are less.
 
Had a curious sound pop up after doing spark plugs, wires, and boots (not coils). Sounds like the lifter tick from my Miata, but some think it's a rod or bottom end.

Can you drive with the engine knocking?
What symptoms happen while driving with a bent rod?
Does the sound change or stay linear?
 
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