VersaTuner - tuning software for Mazdas
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Thread: What have you done to your P5 today?

  1. #56566
    31N007 KingOfSpades007's Avatar

    Mazda Protegť5

    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Canton, MI
    Quote Originally Posted by Breeegz View Post
    Does anyone her have experience with AWR Motor Mounts that they'd care to share?
    I've got the trans and PMM inserts, and front and rear mounts, and the NVH isn't the greatest (if you're concerned about that) but they've really cut down on the wheel hop. There's still "jerk" in the powertrain at speed if I let the car coast then stab the throttle. The rear mount, regardless to what mount you have, will be a bit of a pain to get to. Lots of extensions/ universal joints to access from above.

    I took apart the door lock switch on my P5 as the key would not lock, only unlock, and only if I twisted the switch hard. Turns out the bent copper ring loses some of its spring over the years and no longer makes contact where it should. I added some petroleum jelly in there (under the assumption/hope it's pretty much the same as dielectric grease) and then checked continuity across the contacts. Found that lock completes the circuit where unlock shows 1000 ohms of resistance. I thought that was strange and took the switch further apart (you don't need to do this to fix the switch) and found the SMD resistor. Of course I took it off and had to resolder it back on once I realised the error of my ways.

    Long story short, bend the spring a little bit more, add some dielectric grease onto the copper strips, and your door lock switch should work good as new. To get the tumbler out of the car, there is a spring clip that holds it into the door handle on the sides. Pull those out of the grooves they sit in and you should be able to push the tumbler into the door and it will slide out. OR just remove the white assembly from the car and sort it out from there.
    Last edited by KingOfSpades007; 03-13-2019 at 10:43 PM.
    I need a brain.

    2002 Protege5

    TWM SS
    CS shifter bushings
    Fidanza flywheel
    Eibach springs
    Tokico Illumina 5 way adj. struts
    AWR MM (all 4)
    RE71R on Filk FTDs

    JDM tails
    Mini H1 7.0 35W 4500K

    1996 Subaru Impreza Outback
    Winter beater

    1993 Ford Escort GT
    "The Rally-X Pig"

    That cone looked rather tasty...

  2. #56567
    Registered Member Protege5 Smoke's Avatar

    2002 Mazda Protege5

    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Springfield, MO, United States
    My alarm has been going off randomly and I have no idea why? Just randomly goes off and when I unlock the car, the alarm beeps 4 times. Thatís a door sensor that was triggered, according to the Mazda manual. And itís happening more and more often- any ideas?

  3. #56568
    Registered Member o.g.sk8er's Avatar

    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    los angeles, ca
    Rotated my tires the other day and I see no signs at all of irregular tire wear. Surprising.
    Thats with -2.0* camber front and about -4* in the back. No cupping, camber wear...nothing! Been driving it like this for almost 2 years. Toe is zero.
    02 Protege 5
    BC Coilovers; AWR endlinks; GT Spec front 4 point ladder bar; GT Spec rear V-Brace; GT Spec reinforcement panel; GT Spec rear strut bar; AWR trailing arms; Modded factory rear sway bar.

    MP3 ECU (not flashed); Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley; JDM MS flywheel (16lbs); Stock Air Box Mod with K&N drop in panel filter; 1sty Grounding Kit; TB Coolant Bypass Mod; 03 MSP Rear Axleback

    Kartboy Short Shifter with Kartboy Bushings; DGM CF Gauge Bezel; DGM CF passenger side dash cover; Wink 5 Panel Mirror; CF Shiftknob; Red Accent Lights; Super Bright LED's in the Gauge Cluster.

  4. #56569
    Looking for John Connor Breeegz's Avatar
    Donated: $10

    2003 Protege 5 -- 2016 Ford Expedition

    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Edge of Sanity, TX
    Quote Originally Posted by grffn View Post
    I have the AWR passenger/trans mounts with a Hydra front mount.
    Quote Originally Posted by o.g.sk8er View Post
    Driving impressions: Car does handle better since the engine isnt moving back and forth when accelerating/decelerating, which throws off the balance more than you think. No more wheel hop at all. Less squat under hard acceleration. Puts the power down to the ground much better since the engine isnt jumping around as much. Thats why grffn, myself and others feel more torque and just a more solid felling overall. Definitely recommend the front mount and side inserts.
    Quote Originally Posted by 323 View Post
    my msp though has all four 70 duro solids. it isn't terrible on short trips but it's starting to get to me. going to swap out the rear mount for a filled mount and see how that helps the interior vibrations.
    Quote Originally Posted by KingOfSpades007 View Post
    I've got the trans and PMM inserts, and front and rear mounts, and the NVH isn't the greatest (if you're concerned about that) but they've really cut down on the wheel hop.
    During my timing belt investigation, I noticed the Passenger mount is torn. I checked the others (not the rear) and the Front mount looks damaged, but the trans mount looks good. Tony had the 70 durometer solid mounts on sale, so I bought the kit. I've talked to my buddy in a Mazda3 with a solid (70 durometer) passenger mount and he said "it rattled my fillings out". I took the plunge against his recommendation and I just wanted to get some other opinions to help me feel better about my purchase. Thanks for all of your feedback, I'll add mine after I get the parts to put my P5 back on the road.
    Now you see me, now you don't. I'm a Ninja.
    My Cardomain page My Alaska Picture Thread My Zombie Protege5 Project

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