What have you done to your P5 today?

Ill try it. Haven't had a chance to solder the button yet.

Headlights nice improvement



To



Ill have to hit them with 2500 again and polish with a machine. I just polished them with a rag and quick wetsand cause it was getting dark.
 
so ive noticed if im on it, once it goes above 4000 rpm there is this increasing high pitched whine. the tranny does make gear noise but with it only happening over 4000rpm i don't think its to do with that. I also get a clanking sound when taking off sometimes.

Also. Whenever the low beams are on, the high beams are too. Just barely but definitely on. Where is a good location to tap a relay to totally bypass the factory high and low beam relays? Or are they just going bad?
 
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Picking her up from the mechanic in an hour. She passed inspection and the DS rear strut mount was swapped out. I got lazy and paid them to do it. Didn't want to fight with it in the cold weather.
 
My 2002 decided to overheat on me so I replaced the thermostat and then the battery died so there was another problem thankfully the alternator is still working fine.
 
Sunday the 3rd set of bushings went on the AWR swaybar, the alternator belt was tightened and horn was fixed. So the RX8 is about to be put away for the winter and the P5 will trudge through another crappy weather season.

Side note, I really do appreciate the increased balance (read much less understeer) that the 21.5mm AWR rear sway bar provided when I bought it 2 years ago. But it has some issues;

  • The bushings have not lasted very long, now on 3rd set AWR provided this set, and yes, they were properly lubed before each install and not over torqued down.
  • The end links rubber doughnut bushings have blown out
  • The two ends of the bar had to have about 5" cut off due to the lowered ride height of the car causing the bar's ends to slam the lower suspension arms.

So I wouldn't suggest it unless you have time to keep working on it and don't mind the banging when the bushing blow out and the brackets get bent.
 
denim said:
Sunday the 3rd set of bushings went on the AWR swaybar, the alternator belt was tightened and horn was fixed. So the RX8 is about to be put away for the winter and the P5 will trudge through another crappy weather season.

Side note, I really do appreciate the increased balance (read much less understeer) that the 21.5mm AWR rear sway bar provided when I bought it 2 years ago. But it has some issues;

  • The bushings have not lasted very long, now on 3rd set AWR provided this set, and yes, they were properly lubed before each install and not over torqued down.
  • The end links rubber doughnut bushings have blown out
  • The two ends of the bar had to have about 5" cut off due to the lowered ride height of the car causing the bar's ends to slam the lower suspension arms.

So I wouldn't suggest it unless you have time to keep working on it and don't mind the banging when the bushing blow out and the brackets get bent.
Click to expand...

Yea, I had one for a while and it was horrible, clunked constantly regardless of the position of the bar. Really didnt notice a difference in handling at all tho
 
Well to continue my 2 months of bad luck, the alternator just kicked it last night. FAWK!
 
Bought a remanufactured replacement alt, as I didn't want to spend the money for the big case/high current conversion.
 
Bought another LED hoodlight kit from the truck forum like I have on my Tacoma and hooked it up on the 323F...............

323F_hoodlight_01.JPG

323F_hoodlight_02.JPG

323F_hoodlight_03.JPG

323F_hoodlight_04.JPG

323F_hoodlight_05.JPG
 
Filled the passenger side motor mount today. tried to remove the heatshield on exhaust but bolts too rusted in to be pulled, will have to cut the heads. the car rattles badly at launch and bending the heatshield away seemed to fix it.
so now i have both side motor mounts filled with red silicon. front mount is 77dm awr.

installed my replacement set of fogs that came with working bulbs not bad for $60. though i wish he had sent me two fogs that were a little closer in lense condition. one is quite scaled and pitted where the other is brand new looking. wont matter once i get hids in there.
then i ran all the wires to install hids. ran them through the crash bar as i did on the msp but installed two +12v and two relay wires for when i get around to installing the fog hids. become pretty proficient at removing the bumper now heh.

i still have to disable the drls, and modify the fog system to drl fogs. the wiring is a little longer than id have liked but the driver side lighting system is totally buggered.. i had to relay off the passenger side.
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
Bought another LED hoodlight kit from the truck forum like I have on my Tacoma and hooked it up on the 323F...............
Click to expand...

You just blew my mind!!!

I've been trying to figure out a good way to fasten my plexiglass to the lid for CAB and been thinking I need a milling machine to cut a step into the plastic. RIVETS!

Thanks a million!
 
Valk said:
Filled the passenger side motor mount today. tried to remove the heatshield on exhaust but bolts too rusted in to be pulled, will have to cut the heads. the car rattles badly at launch and bending the heatshield away seemed to fix it.
so now i have both side motor mounts filled with red silicon. front mount is 77dm awr.

installed my replacement set of fogs that came with working bulbs not bad for $60. though i wish he had sent me two fogs that were a little closer in lense condition. one is quite scaled and pitted where the other is brand new looking. wont matter once i get hids in there.
then i ran all the wires to install hids. ran them through the crash bar as i did on the msp but installed two +12v and two relay wires for when i get around to installing the fog hids. become pretty proficient at removing the bumper now heh.

i still have to disable the drls, and modify the fog system to drl fogs. the wiring is a little longer than id have liked but the driver side lighting system is totally buggered.. i had to relay off the passenger side.
Click to expand...

how are you liking that motor mount setup? i have inserts all around except for the rear lol. still stock cause i don't got time to play with that thing. i may move to all solids but 70duro tho.
 
Solid in the front sure made a difference. Filled sides was a cheap alternative to inserts as the factory ones were still good. I think when it comes time to put the msp back together ill buy a factory front mount for p5 and fill it too. Won't bother with rear mount. I've heard lots of ways to do it though I still found the hardest part getting the plastic wire harness keeper thing out.

Just takes cleaver use of extensions and good swivels to service the mount.
P5 will NOT get a solid rear mount. That turned my msp windscreen into a big speaker of drone.
No complaints about the $5 silicon mounts though. Shifts nice

Ps I didn't do anything really fancy. Took mounts out, spooged a bunch of red silicon in the holes on both sides. Put the mount back in to dry lol.
 
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Alamo1 said:
You just blew my mind!!!

I've been trying to figure out a good way to fasten my plexiglass to the lid for CAB and been thinking I need a milling machine to cut a step into the plastic. RIVETS!

Thanks a million!
Click to expand...
Your welcome. The adhesive didn't hold up to heat and leaning on the window working on other stuff so I had to come up with a way to reattach the window to the lid and RIVETS popped into my head and into the air box lid, lol. Was kinda sketchy drilling the holes in the plexiglass as not to crack it but did it in steps and it turned out OK. On a wacky note, used rear derailleur pulley side plate washers on the inside so the pop rivets wouldn't crack the plexiglass when popping them into place. Turned out nice and secure. Only had 6 rivets on hand at the time and thinking I need a 7th in the middle of the front so I will add it later on.
 
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Replaced all four p5 inner handles for all dark grey handles, looks alot cleaner. Next is to either paint the window switch or get dark grey ones or the carbon fiber to match the radio bezel
 
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