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- Mazda Protege5
I didn't want to quote the picture but does that bar get in the way at all or does it rest flush with the back of the seats?
What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
I didn't want to quote the picture but does that bar get in the way at all or does it rest flush with the back of the seats?
31N007
31N007
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- Mazda Protege5
It's out of the way of the rear seats, in fact there's a few inches of clearance in front of the bar to the backs of the rear seats. You'll have to carefully (or not) cut holes in the trunk plastics for the tower brackets to through.
The blocks should sit where the three standoff looking things are, at least that's how mine were. Again, not super super necessary, but if you have them and want to use them I can understand.
The blocks should sit where the three standoff looking things are, at least that's how mine were. Again, not super super necessary, but if you have them and want to use them I can understand.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Yeah, the 3 foam blocks are arranged where they sit on the curve of the spare right at the back near the hatch and are stuck to the bottom of the carpeted floor piece.
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- 02 protege5 ES 5dr
Sold painted cf hood, replaced with unpainted one of the same.
FINALLY FINISHED MY WHOLE REAR SUSPENSION REPLACEMENT ON THE MP3. NOW MY QUESTION IS, CAN ANYONE DIRECT ME TO A LINK FOR FACTORY REPLACEMENT REAR SWAY BAR LINKS. I HAVE THESE FROM AUTOZONE http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...k/duralast-sway-bar-link/192463_946576_0_4145 BUT I BELIEVE THESE ARE THE WRONG SIZE KEEP HEARING A KNOCKING SOUND.
PARTS CHANGED:
REAR SUBFRAME
ALL 4 LATERAL LINKS
NEW AWR SWAY BUSHINGS
TRAILING ARMS
SWAY BAR LINKS
STRUT TOP HATS
BRAKES/ROTORS
PARTS CHANGED:
REAR SUBFRAME
ALL 4 LATERAL LINKS
NEW AWR SWAY BUSHINGS
TRAILING ARMS
SWAY BAR LINKS
STRUT TOP HATS
BRAKES/ROTORS
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Awesome, thank you for the clarification. I put them under the spare but that didn't seem right.
In the past couple weeks I have replaced the two broken rear seat belts, installed LED bulbs in the rear brake lights, replaced the broken passenger hatch plastic with an unbroken piece, swapped the rear spoiler that does not have clearcoat damage all over it and put some foam on it to keep it from rattling, got the car titled and inspected, removed the front plate and bracket, installed a Cobb front plate delete (bolted right on), installed 03.5 MSP front floormats and door sills, found a leather passenger front seat that is not totally destroyed at the junkyard for $30! and swapped it in, installed an old Pioneer double din screen I got from a friend, installed an amp wiring kit, Blaupunkt 750 watt amp and Rockford Fosgate P1 8" sub in the hatch area, installed a mazda6 wagon rear wiper, wired the windows to be always on, cut the wire for the door beep, installed a new AC fan switch and replaced the melted/charred harness connector (AC works on all 4 speeds!), swapped the HVAC/radio panel with a mint one I found at the Junkyard that didn't have broken clips, replaced the broken hazard switch, installed the intermittent MZ6 wiper stalk, swapped tribute washer nozzles and tightened the E-Brake cable.
Next I want to swap the less dented passenger side doors on, install my MSP kenwood rear speakers, get the windows tinted, pop some of the dents out of the body, remove the side moldings, black out the headlights and get HID bulbs.
Still have a huge list of things to do, but the car is becoming more pleasant to look at and drive. I am starting to like it! But I still want to put a turbo on it.
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- 02 protege5 ES 5dr
Began tear down. Plan is to clear and clean engine bay. Transmission is going into silver p5 and then a laundry list of repairs on the pair of them.
I was expecting this while i was reading through your long list of things done to the car lol
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- Mazda Protege5
Finally received and installed the driver side mirror. The mazda one and not a replacement as it was cheaply made.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Got a new OEM primary key cut to work on the P5. It came with the valet key and I didn't like it, plus I wanted to have a back up. Also removed the tint on my new passenger side doors and started pulling the black door vinyl off of them. Realized my LED bulbs are preventing my cruise control from working, so I plan to swap those out soon. Wired up the fog lights to come on with the parking lights. Removed the roof rack cross bars. I just put caps on the rear for now since I had them, will install the roof strips eventually once I feel like pulling the headliner and getting at some of the dents on the roof. Replaced the gauge cluster bulbs since one of them was burned out.
I had to kind of rig up the throttle cable to work with the ZE intake mani since I was unable to figure out how to adjust the throttle cable, and only was able to put one bolt in the cable bracket. The bolt came out last week since the hole was slightly stripped, ended up putting a longer bolt in with some loc-tite and securing the cable better and the car runs so much better. The cable before wasn't aligned properly and only opened the TB about 40% when the pedal was to the floor, now the car will actually go WOT and feels like it picked up 30hp!
It is inevitable lol.
I had to kind of rig up the throttle cable to work with the ZE intake mani since I was unable to figure out how to adjust the throttle cable, and only was able to put one bolt in the cable bracket. The bolt came out last week since the hole was slightly stripped, ended up putting a longer bolt in with some loc-tite and securing the cable better and the car runs so much better. The cable before wasn't aligned properly and only opened the TB about 40% when the pedal was to the floor, now the car will actually go WOT and feels like it picked up 30hp!
It is inevitable lol.
Protege5 Smoke
Member
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- 2002 Mazda Protege5
What LED bulbs? Pls don’t say headlights cuz I was planning to switch from hid to led and I don’t want any issues!
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
Tail light bulbs. I know this as i had LED's in mine too and pulled them for the same reason.
Cruise control circuit uses brake light circuit to work, and since LED draws lower voltage than normal, the circuit is "open" at all times which causes cruise to not work.
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- protege5
Actually, just to be correct, it is more likely because of a continuity thing. LED's or incandescent bulbs don't "draw voltage". They draw different amounts of current (amperage) but voltage is 12v either way. Yes, a LED will generally draw less current than a standard bulb but this will not affect the operation of the cruise control due to replacing the bulbs with LED's.
To be completely factual, I don't know what kind of schematics are inside the cruise control ECU logic board, but I can generalize with a relative amount of certainty that what i am saying is accurate. In most cars the sense wire on the stop lamp circuit going to the cruise control ECU will rest at ground (albeit with a resistance through the filament of the bulb). A LED is a diode, which prevents that ground continuity from passing through. So instead of resting with continuity to ground, it rests at "open" unless you depress the brake pedal, at which point it goes to 12v.
because it rests at "open" instead of "ground" it thinks there is something wrong with either the brake switch, or tail lights and will disable the cruise control as a safety measure since it uses that stop lamp circuit as the trigger to disengage the cruise control.
I would be willing to bet if you hooked up a regular bulb inside the rear quarter panel or somewhere in-line with the LED brake lights, you would be able to not only have your LED tail lights but also cruise control. You could just "T" off of the brake light wire, run to one side of the light bulb, and then run the other side of the bulb to ground. You'll have that light bulb inside the car turning on as well every time you press the brakes. Again i have no testing to confirm this, but i'd be willing to bet it would work.
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I had an issue with my LED tail lights, when I pressed on the brakes, my front parking lights came on. Upon the conclusion of my investigation, I found that the regular bulbs have 2 filaments, one for tail and one for brake. This prevents any interaction between the brake lights and tail lights. My LED bulbs used the same circuit for both, and merely adjusted the brightness depending if they had voltage on one line vs two. That created a feedback problem into the taillights/parking lights whenever I stepped on the brakes. It first came to my attention that something was wrong when I was parked, car shut off, and the alarm to tell me I left my lights on started going off every time I pushed on my brakes. When I was in the garage, I could see the front parking lights/blinker/hazards come on as I depressed the brake pedal.
I haven't tried using cruise control since installing them, but I would guess that your problem is similar to mine, except that your cruise control is reading feedback from the tail lights into the brake light circuit. I. E., when you have your lights on, the cruise control thinks you are riding the brake, and shutting off.
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- protege5
In this case, i would suspect cheap or defective lights. Even though they are running the same LED's at different brightnesses, there is a chip on the board that will regulate the output voltage to those LED's to control the different brightnesses. If something is wrong in that chip, or the chip is just cheap (or possible something is wired incorrectly even) it will cause what you're seeing. However, this chip (along with other diodes and stuff on the board) SHOULD isolate the 2 circuits from one another.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
My LEDs worked normally, I swapped them into my MSP since it doesn't have cruise control. It's nice to have it on the P5! I have already passed 1k miles on it since I got it running. It's been good to me so far. Swapped a clean EGR onto it and still getting the P0401 code.
Does anyone have a deleted EGR without a CEL? I have a filter installed on the intake hose, and the header EGR fitting capped and have always gotten a CEL. About ready to re-install the FSZE EGR tube and get rid of the light.
Does anyone have a deleted EGR without a CEL? I have a filter installed on the intake hose, and the header EGR fitting capped and have always gotten a CEL. About ready to re-install the FSZE EGR tube and get rid of the light.
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
Having a working turbo P5 is sooooo much fun! Even at stock boost it actually can pull somewhat now!
@hornsfan - I dont believe so. I have the same thing as you and have a constant EGR CEL. Capped header and my 505 mani has no EGR port, so i have the plug taped off.
@hornsfan - I dont believe so. I have the same thing as you and have a constant EGR CEL. Capped header and my 505 mani has no EGR port, so i have the plug taped off.
The modding fun never stops.
Was bored last night so my buddy came over with his welding equipment and we cut out the resonator and fabbed in some 2.25 inch piping in its place, welded it up and off I go.
Weeeeee!
Didn't cost me a cent as my buddy had everything. Free mods, yep. (2thumbs)
Surprisingly quiet considering.
Was bored last night so my buddy came over with his welding equipment and we cut out the resonator and fabbed in some 2.25 inch piping in its place, welded it up and off I go.
Weeeeee!
Didn't cost me a cent as my buddy had everything. Free mods, yep. (2thumbs)
Surprisingly quiet considering.
