White Smoke: Burning oil (?)

So, yesterday, the car started smoking huge amounts of white smoke even at idle. There is a MAM Street Sleeper kit on it (GT28RS) and just barely over 4000 KM on it. The only variables, that I could think of, that have changed are time and the age of the oil.

The exact symptons are:
- after startup (cold) very little white smoke, but noticable
- after driving for a bit, smoke gets thicker and smells like burning oil (I think)
- then after stopping, smoke continues

This sounds like the same issue as igradsil (sp?).

I thought perhaps the oil was getting old and thick and may be causing blow-by on the turbo's rear seal. I did a quick oil change to see if things would improve, but nothing changed.

My oil return line is less than optimal but contains no uphill bends. It currently drops straight down from the turbo, bends towards the front of the car and then almost horizontal straight into the oil pan (slight downward decline). The nut in the oil pan is about an inch or two from the top of the pan.

When I did the oil change, I checked the oil for any coolant but it was solid black. The coolant looks like it's regular green colour and so I'm pretty confident I don't have a blown head gasket.

This brings me to believe that it is in fact the rear seal on the turbo going out. I read a post (by spoolinmp3) in a thread from a while back saying that Garrett's GT series turbos' rear seals should not get damaged from blowby as they're designed to let excess pressure through. Is this the case?

I'm going to get the car towed to a mechanic to get a compression test done to ensure that the engine is still in good shape.

What other tests should be done? How can the rear seal be tested on the turbo? What are some other possible reasons for white smoke?

I appreciate any input. Thanks.

a compression test and a leakdown test.

whats a leak down test?

Murda said:

My oil return line is less than optimal but contains no uphill bends. It currently drops straight down from the turbo, bends towards the front of the car and then almost horizontal straight into the oil pan (slight downward decline). The nut in the oil pan is about an inch or two from the top of the pan.

Click to expand...

This could be your problem..The oil return nut needs to be at the TOP. If it's 1-2" down you are sitting in the oil in the pan.

Next, if it's less than optimal, make it optimal. The headaches will be less and less if you make known problems less likely to happen.


Pull off your first charge pipe and see if it has oil, if it does then you are pushing oil past the seal. First thing I would do is what i listed above.

White smoke usually means you're burning coolant. Grayish/black smoke would mean oil. The smells are very distinct.

ill bet its ur oil return line. ive seen it happen alot, even the slightest problem and it will do that. its very important its optimal. the oil is frothy post turbo and its gravity only so its more work getting it back to the pan.

Given that its already pushing oil past the seal, is this seal toast? Or, if the above problems are solved, will I be good to go?

If the seal is toast, how do I go about getting it replaced?

Oh gawd, did some more searching and my symptons are nearly identical to these...
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=219909&highlight=cigarette#post219909

I just realized that my beather filter IS releasing gases at idle.

I'm going crazy here just thinking about the possibilities. The car is definitely getting towed to a shop at the first opportunity and getting a leakdown test. At this point in the game, all things are pointing to me being in over my head.

*fingers crossed*

I've lost compression on one cylinder with another cylinder with suspect compression values.

Blame is being put on a bad tune. I had an inkling that my timing map was not as good as it could be. I know/thought my A/F ratios were 11.XX in boost. Detonation killed my piston(s).

I'm still thinking through my next moves. I now have to decide if I'm going to continue being an active participant in the modding community and continue FI or if I'm going to cut my losses, detune and continue on my merry way.

My first move is to acquire a used block and get the car running at stock spec. Then, I'm not sure. I may hang on to the original block and slowly build it up. Or, cut my losses and sell the kit and sell the block.

I'm not one for giving up. But, I like to believe I'm not overly stubborn. I did live my dream of turboing a car, albeit not for long, and now it may be time to return to the real world.

If you need a full long block let me know, I just have one sitting around. It's runs fine, eats a bit of oil, smokes a bit with no performance loss. It does have a cracked piston ringland and about 60,000-70,000 kms on it.
Cause it's a cracked piston ringland the leakdown numbers were inconsistant. It would show awesome numbers, but then we go thru one or two revolution then we got if I remember correctly 12% 3% 3% 2% The block itself is in good shape so perfect candidate for a rebuild or you can use this when you get yours rebuilt. It still has some life in it just bring a jug of oil with you, and best of all no shipping, it's sitting in richmond.
I want to get rid of it, so it'll be cheap.

p5

dood, good luck with that. and that sux. (YN)

Eugene? I believe my current block is in the same shape. I suspect it's a cracked ringland. Thanks for the offer though!

dentonation killed it

hey man i had the same issues and symptoms a few months ago and just got my car out of the shop last week. Same thing no compression on one piston and iffy on others. all the smoke and s***. and oil leaking from my compressor. well you probably dont want to hear it but i had a blown head gasket and my rings were fried. on top of that my butterfly cups in my intake manifold decided to shatter somehow and get all sucked into the fourth hole in my intake manifold in turn jacking my head and the timing belt skipped a few teeth and locked up my cams. wow that still pisses me off but it is the fun game of cars. so i had to get internals, a new head gasket, got arp head studs, and a new head. it is running great now but i hope this doesnt scare you but it sounds like coolant is burning which to me would mean your head gasket is blown. get a leak down. good luck man

Murda said:

I've lost compression on one cylinder with another cylinder with suspect compression values.

Blame is being put on a bad tune. I had an inkling that my timing map was not as good as it could be. I know/thought my A/F ratios were 11.XX in boost. Detonation killed my piston(s).

I'm still thinking through my next moves. I now have to decide if I'm going to continue being an active participant in the modding community and continue FI or if I'm going to cut my losses, detune and continue on my merry way.

My first move is to acquire a used block and get the car running at stock spec. Then, I'm not sure. I may hang on to the original block and slowly build it up. Or, cut my losses and sell the kit and sell the block.

I'm not one for giving up. But, I like to believe I'm not overly stubborn. I did live my dream of turboing a car, albeit not for long, and now it may be time to return to the real world.

Click to expand...

No.

Get a long block or a new head with some forged internals (I guess a forged long block) and GET IT PROFESSIONALLY DYNO TUNED.

There is nothing wrong with the kit, there is not need to get totally killed when you sell that.

The cheap route would be to get a stocker longblock and tune it. You will make well over 200 to the wheels when you do.

Good luck. You need to enjoy your kit.