Cold Air Intake vs. Cone Filter
- Thread starter PGFracing
- Start date
SlimMilkMan327
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Black P5
the cone will pull in hot air to the engine, causing it to use more gas and not perform to it's peak ability. A CAI will help cold air get into the engine, causing it to use less gas with more performance
TX Speed Demon
Member
Putting a cone filter on the stock intake pipe puts it in almost the exact location as the Perrin SRI filter....
Test done on Consecutive days (JDM Sam's & Chckmngt on one day, mine on the next day)
All test were done at cruising speed on the highway.
My MSP with Perrin SRI - intake temps were steady at ~105 degrees
JDM Sam's MSP with stock intake - temps were about 80-85 degrees
Chckmngt's MSP with Injen CAI - intake temps were about 60-65 degrees
----
With the Perrin Intake I hit fuel cut almost every time I hit the gas. The car would also hesitate A LOT. It was super fun to drive the first 10 minutes in the morning, but was a dog under every other circumstance. Once the under hood temps rose, the intake temp sensor would know, and pull timing accordingly making the car hesitate even worse. I always thought my FMIC would be enough to negate the under hood temps, but that was not the case.
I've since switched to the Injen intake and LOVE IT. No hesitation at all above 3500 RPMs. Nice, clean hard pulls all the way to redline. There is a DEFINATE performance difference between the two intake systems.
Don't waste your money on a SRI. The only way I could see this being benificial to performance would be if you ran hoodless.
Test done on Consecutive days (JDM Sam's & Chckmngt on one day, mine on the next day)
All test were done at cruising speed on the highway.
My MSP with Perrin SRI - intake temps were steady at ~105 degrees
JDM Sam's MSP with stock intake - temps were about 80-85 degrees
Chckmngt's MSP with Injen CAI - intake temps were about 60-65 degrees
----
With the Perrin Intake I hit fuel cut almost every time I hit the gas. The car would also hesitate A LOT. It was super fun to drive the first 10 minutes in the morning, but was a dog under every other circumstance. Once the under hood temps rose, the intake temp sensor would know, and pull timing accordingly making the car hesitate even worse. I always thought my FMIC would be enough to negate the under hood temps, but that was not the case.
I've since switched to the Injen intake and LOVE IT. No hesitation at all above 3500 RPMs. Nice, clean hard pulls all the way to redline. There is a DEFINATE performance difference between the two intake systems.
Don't waste your money on a SRI. The only way I could see this being benificial to performance would be if you ran hoodless.
SlimMilkMan327
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Black P5
hey, you gave me the same advice about the CAI, cause of you I bought one and it has really helped, thanx
TX Speed Demon
Member
^^ No problem. I just don't want people wasting their money on products that aren't right for our application. Later this month the DFW area is having a meet and I should be able to test both intakes, back to back, on the same car. After that I'll make a thread with official test data and more details.
SilverBulletES
Member
- :
- '90 MX-5, '00 328i
With my ES I didn't feel like I had very noticable heatsoak problems with my eBay short ram UNTIL I put on my uncoated OBX header.... now that it's getting hot outside I swear I feel it once the car's heated up. Plus, with my catback and MP3 ecu I just tend to rev it much harder now. 
Just ordered the same eBay CAI that MilkMan did. 50 bucks shipped-- you can't argue with the price. I'm not one who cares that much how it looks under the hood-- I might wrap both my header and CAI in a month or two.
Just ordered the same eBay CAI that MilkMan did. 50 bucks shipped-- you can't argue with the price. I'm not one who cares that much how it looks under the hood-- I might wrap both my header and CAI in a month or two.SilverBulletES
Member
- :
- '90 MX-5, '00 328i
SilverBulletES
Member
- :
- '90 MX-5, '00 328i
J dragon said:
That seems to be par for the course on eBay... deflating product price to reel people in, then inflating S&H. I'm sure the excuse is... well shipping was only 10 dollars but HANDLING it was 15. More than a crack ho would charge to handle something. (sorry, just slipped out) Eh, it's cheap either way.
SilverBulletES
Member
- :
- '90 MX-5, '00 328i
DE31 said:
SlimMilkMan327 says his is perfect. Search for his recent thread.
SlimMilkMan327
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Black P5
here is the link to my topic with pics of my install http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110834
A lot of the cold air intakes are still under the hood. Unless you go down by the ground your not getting a big difference in colder air? I was just going to run a hose from the front air dam to a semi box with a cone filter. Air temperatures would then be near ambient temperatures and would have plenty of air since it would be a ram induction. My total cost would be around $20 dollars and I'm sure I'd be getting better air than any cold system on the market. any thoughts?
Homemade ram-air setups don't work any better than a cold-air setup. A true ram-air setup is far more complicated than scooping air in from the outside and feeding it to an air box.
Cold-air intakes for the protege do have the filter under the hood, but out of the engine bay. They put the filter in the wheel well where they pull in air at ambient temperatures, not engine bay temperatures. Another benefit of a CAI is that the air has a chance to build up velocity as it travels through the tube.
Cold-air intakes for the protege do have the filter under the hood, but out of the engine bay. They put the filter in the wheel well where they pull in air at ambient temperatures, not engine bay temperatures. Another benefit of a CAI is that the air has a chance to build up velocity as it travels through the tube.
From what I'm seeing on some vehicles like a tahoe or chevy pickup where they replace quite a bit of componetry that blocks airflow a Cold Air Intake could be worth the dollars, but on MSP a cold air intake, doesn't show any benefits. The airbox is already over by the wheel well on a MSP anyway. Now I've seen Cold Air intakes that go down by the ground which could help a little but because of the long travel of airflow your going to loose power, but if you put a cone filter right onto the air mass sensor you should increase your top end power because of the short throw of air flow and increase your bottom end because of the increased air, my only worry is that the car will get to much air because the MSP runs lean already in stock format. Not sure if the injectors and ECU can keep up.
SlimMilkMan327
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Black P5
idk if it would show any performance gains, but the cai in a msp would send colder air in then the airbox, helping the engine to run better, and save some fuel
TX Speed Demon
Member
PGFracing said:
Dude you are so wrong here. Don't make blanket statements like this unless you can provide some factual data to back it up cause you could easily mislead other forum members. I'm speaking from experience, not speculation, see post #5 in this thread.
PGFracing said:
I've run all three set ups:
Cone Filter on stock pipe
Perrin SRI
Injen CAI
I GARAUNTEE YOU THE CAI IS BETTER. There is noticable difference in power between the CAI and the other two.
The difference in temperature is 20 and 40 degrees vs stock w/ elbow and SRI. Even with my FMIC I make WAY more power with the CAI vs the other two. Hesitation is gone and I haven't fit fuel cut once when I hit it almost daily with the Perrin SRI.
I think the problem with running an SRI is the temp sensor location. If you moved the temp sensor to the cold pipe where it red the actual temps it might work better, but when it reads 105 degree temps coming in from the radiator fan it pulls timing and thus power. I even had a blocking plate to reduce the amount of air from the radiator the SRI pulled in. It didn't make any difference, it's simply too hot under the hood for an SRI to be effective on our application.
Don't waste your money, get a CAI.
PGFracing said:
And the MSP runs RICH stock, not lean. On the Dyno my car (and every other stock msp dyno I've seen here) read 10/1 (which was the lowest it would register) from 2800 roms-6000 rpms and never made it above 10.3. Ideally you will be around 12/1. And that dyno was with a Perrin SRI and the hood open and fan in front to reduce temps.
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