Rod cap bolts and torque?

simdrew · May 4, 2005

So I've got the bottom of the block open, and I was going to figure out if I had a spun rod bearing, but I've run into some issues...
1) Where do I get the star socket to remove the bolts, and what are they called?
2) What is the torque spec for the bolts on the rod caps, and bolts for the crank bearings?
3) What is the gap and tolerance for the rod bearings? (I'm going to use the plastigauge on it)
4) How do you know if you need to machine the crank when replacing rod bearings?

Thanks!!

simdrew · May 5, 2005

bump before heading to bed

simdrew · May 5, 2005

bump before going to work (sun) (poke)

simdrew · May 5, 2005

bumpin' at lunch (cheers)

simdrew · May 5, 2005

bumping because I know there's someone out there with the answers who hasn't seen the questions yet. (deadhorse

tyusha · May 5, 2005

Free bumpage

simdrew · May 5, 2005

simdrew said:
1) Where do I get the star socket to remove the bolts, and what are they called?

Ok, they are called 12 point sockets and you can get them at autoplaces or other places with tools, but apparently not AutoZone. Or are they? Is this just a standard 12 point socket that I normally pass up for a 6 point that I don't think will strip the bolt as easily?

ddogg777 · May 5, 2005

yes...12pt socket.
You need to buy a Chilton manual while your at it to get all the torque and clearnace specs.

simdrew · May 5, 2005

ddogg777 said:
yes...12pt socket.
You need to buy a Chilton manual while your at it to get all the torque and clearnace specs.

I have the standard manual for the '03 Protege, but my research tells me that there is two companion books, one for the engine, one for the transmission. I guess I'm going to try to squeeze the info out of a Mazda Parts Department.

Kooldino · May 5, 2005

simdrew said:
1) Where do I get the star socket to remove the bolts, and what are they called?

Standard 12 point socket.

2) What is the torque spec for the bolts on the rod caps, and bolts for the crank bearings?

Might be 35 ft/lbs + 90* or something. I'll have to look that up.

3) What is the gap and tolerance for the rod bearings? (I'm going to use the plastigauge on it)

I think you want 2-3 thou?

4) How do you know if you need to machine the crank when replacing rod bearings?

If there are any visible marks in the crank.

PS - They make Chilton manuals for our cars?

simdrew · May 5, 2005

Thanks! (2thumbs)

Kooldino said:
Might be 35 ft/lbs + 90* or something. I'll have to look that up.
I think you want 2-3 thou?

Does this mean I should tighten to 35 ft/lbs and then turn it 90 degrees more?

Nightmare · May 5, 2005

Installshield 2 · May 5, 2005

yeah Ddog what is up with the chilton manual thing? is there one available?

simdrew · May 6, 2005

Ok, found which rod bearing was bad... also found a couple pebbles of metal in the oil hole. I don't know if this was the cause or effect.

Do I need to machine the crank if there are no actual scrapes or gouges but it has a streaky pattern on the surface? I'll upload a picture as soon as I can find my digital camera cord.

If you do machine the crank, do you have to put in a special bearing that's thicker?

The gap on the other three rods was 0.002" (or less). It was over 0.006" on the one that was screwed up.

simdrew · May 6, 2005

Here's another question, can I clean off engine parts with Brake-Clean? Or should I avoid it at all costs?

Nightmare · May 6, 2005

you dont have to machine the crank if there are no damages. if its got a gouge, or a lengthy scratch in it, then yea.. gotta replace it, or have it machined. the place you take it to will hook you up with the correct size bearing when they have finished machining it, if you go that route.

when cleaning engine internals, i like using Oven cleaner. works great!

simdrew · May 6, 2005

Here are the pictures:

One shows the crank, the other shows the bearing with bent slip and two small metal pebbles taken from the oil hole that may have caused the problem in the first place.

Rod cap bolts and torque?

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