My new MAF setup + extra pictures

CasopoliS said:
I never used the one I bought. What is 2.75 inches? I think the MAF was around 2.25" and my pipe was 2". My intake couplers (Injen) worked fine. Those would work though, but take a sample pipe in.... mine didn't fit.

You know what, I was mistaken, it is 2.25. My pipe is 2" so I would need a 2 -2.25 reducer. Still expensive and now that I think about it Lowes only carries 2 2.5... unless I can clamp down on the 2.5... (uhm)
 
CustomMSP said:
no the maf is about 2.75" in diameter

Oh right.... I messed up on those sizes. The MAF is just slightly bigger than the Injen pipe. I used the 2.75" couplers from Injen and was able to clamp down to the smaller pipe. I did not think it would because there is a good difference, but it clamped ok and it is a strong hold. I might get better clamps for security. I get all my damn pipe sizes confued... they are all different!
 
Thanks

CustomMSP said:
Wasn't responding to your post ;)

I measured it before I left and still got 2.75, but I was still convinced I was losing my mind. I even measured ID and still couldn't duplicate this answer! LOL!!!

Anyways, I decided to tough it out and buy the silicone.

My pipes are very hot esp since I went to SS. I am pretty sure it is caused by the heat coming from the stock header onto the hot pipe before the IC but I am not too sure what to do about it. Considering header wrap. If someone on here has figured out a way to keep the heat off the upper IC pipe, I am all ears.

That being said, I think I am going to abandon moving the MAF until I figure out how to get the cold pipe cool enough to touch.
 
your IC to TB pipe is hot? mine never got hot enough to cause concern even with the stock interwarmer + SS hardpipes. how much boost are you running? is it hot the entire length of the pipe or just near the IC?
 
Casopolis, from what i can tell you dont have any ems or anything besides the fcd? basically could someone, like me, that just has an intake and j pipe do this (after i get hardpipes of course)?

Also, how did you get your defi a/f gauge to work? mine just sits at the 9 oclock then shoots down to 17 then back to 9 oclock (which im guessing is the default spot it goes to if its not getting a signal? i dunno. its pissed me off enough that i left it alone and didnt take it back out. thanks!
 
cvp0917 said:
Casopolis, from what i can tell you dont have any ems or anything besides the fcd? basically could someone, like me, that just has an intake and j pipe do this (after i get hardpipes of course)?

Also, how did you get your defi a/f gauge to work? mine just sits at the 9 oclock then shoots down to 17 then back to 9 oclock (which im guessing is the default spot it goes to if its not getting a signal? i dunno. its pissed me off enough that i left it alone and didnt take it back out. thanks!

Yes you could. EMS is being installed in a couple of days, it will work on any setup.
 
jeffmsp said:
your IC to TB pipe is hot? mine never got hot enough to cause concern even with the stock interwarmer + SS hardpipes. how much boost are you running? is it hot the entire length of the pipe or just near the IC?

When it is hot here in Mississippi, the Turbo - IC pipe is hot enough to boil water. The IC to TB pipe is cooler but hot enough to not be able to lay my hand on it for any length of time. It is the whole pipe.

For a while I had wrapped the upper pipe with reflective heat tape and it did cool the other pipe down, but damn that is so UGLY! Keep in mind I did my own pipes. Perhaps my upper pipe is looping too close to the header shield... I dunno.

Here is the attachment of the pic of the car.
 

Attachments

  • hood.JPG
    hood.JPG
    34.4 KB · Views: 372
How big of a section is cut out of the pipe?

And should the IAT sensor go on the cold pipe? IC>TB pipe?

Or are you guys leaving it in the intake pipe? What size is the hole for the sensor?
 
TigrMsP said:
How big of a section is cut out of the pipe?

And should the IAT sensor go on the cold pipe? IC>TB pipe?

Or are you guys leaving it in the intake pipe? What size is the hole for the sensor?

Hmmm... I appologize, but I am not sure I understand your first question.

For me, placing the IAT sensor in the pressure side would mean that a lot more emphasis would be placed on sealing it in, otherwise under boost we would have a nasty leak. Any time I have ever messed with the piping I have always placed it right next to the intake. Sealing it is less of a priority here.

I don't remember how big the hole was. I made it big enough with a dremel tool to fit the factory grommet. Then I inserted the sensor into the grommet. The seal is tight enough for the intake side of the turbo.

But I am interested to see waht the others have done...
 
msp35 said:

It has nothing to do with the recent development. I talk with John quite a bit (at least recently). The next line of product(s) is pushed back to mid May, per John. For better details on approx. release date, please contact him.
But we did talk, and the MAF replacement did come up in convo....... this would not be in development for a while though due to the current volume of products.

Regarding the size to cut-out. Hold the MAF to the IC->TB pipe and mark the pipe by putting the marker next to the MAF on eash side, this will add about 1/4" on each side, which will allow for vibrations and pipe fluctuations. I think I even cut a bit more... there is enough coupler space.

In regards to the IAT, put it at the intake, not on the pressure side. This does not do too much anyway. Right now mine is dangling by the filter. If it was not in the f'ing 30's here I would finish this install (spring came and we hit 80's.... then it jumps back down to 30... WTF). I am going to drill a hole for the IAT in the pipe by the filter connection. Measure the stock hole, and cut one the same size.
 
cvp0917 said:
Also, how did you get your defi a/f gauge to work? mine just sits at the 9 oclock then shoots down to 17 then back to 9 oclock (which im guessing is the default spot it goes to if its not getting a signal? i dunno. its pissed me off enough that i left it alone and didnt take it back out. thanks!

I sit about 14.7 while sitting. Every once and a while it bounces to 15-16 while sitting. It drops to 10 at full throttle. It maxes to 17 when not on the gas and decelerating. It was on the car when I got it..... sorry no help on the install. Might want to search around and if you don't find anything, start a thread. It is always better to add to a current thread if there already is one about A/F gauge installs.
 
CasopoliS said:
Regarding the size to cut-out. Hold the MAF to the IC->TB pipe and mark the pipe by putting the marker next to the MAF on eash side, this will add about 1/4" on each side, which will allow for vibrations and pipe fluctuations. I think I even cut a bit more... there is enough coupler space.

In regards to the IAT, put it at the intake, not on the pressure side. This does not do too much anyway. Right now mine is dangling by the filter. If it was not in the f'ing 30's here I would finish this install (spring came and we hit 80's.... then it jumps back down to 30... WTF). I am going to drill a hole for the IAT in the pipe by the filter connection. Measure the stock hole, and cut one the same size.

Haha, weather sucks.

Thanks for the info. I'm considering doing this myself. Seems like everyone has good results doing this. Keep us updated on how the AFRs look after the dyno/AFC install.
 
I start one but no one helped. youre the only one ive found with one... i thought maybe my o2 sensor wasnt compatable.
 
cvp0917 said:
I start one but no one helped. youre the only one ive found with one... i thought maybe my o2 sensor wasnt compatable.

Sorry man. I wish people would have helped, I would if I could. If I ever take apart my pillar, I will trace wires and tubes and what not to see how mine was installed.
 
Back