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Ok so my p5 with 181k s*** a thermostat over the weekend. I changed it and now it runs a normal temp but the over flow is still boiling over. K know that the thermostat is working since the temp gauge stays normal but the radiator is still boiling over after sitting with the a/c on for a while...

Over the past Month AWR side inserts, Corksport front and rear inserts, rod bearings, valve seals, piston rings, new intake manifold, honed cylinders, de-carboned pistons and head, new gaskets all the way around, changed all fluids, VTCS mod, and new plugs. Running great now for 171K on the clock!

Right now, pretty good just a little rougher than stock but I think that is because of the increased airflow. Just when the A/C is on it idles like crap, but I can get used to that if I have to.

It was the rod bearings #1 and #4 were pretty ate up. I'll post some pics when I can. The crank was fine and not out of round or scored at all.

Problem solved. Took everything back apart. High Temp RTV'ed both sides of plenum manifold gasket and replaced intake manifold gasket and RTV'ed both sides of it too. Now the car runs great, but it still bogs down under A/C loads. Electrical loads are fine. Any ideas?

I sprayed everything, on top and under the engine. No change. The only thing that affects the idle negatively is the A/C coming on it drops it almost to 400 RPM. The idle went up after reseating the brake booster line. But I will re-check everything tonight.

Update. I sprayed carb cleaner over all the vacuum lines and intake mating areas both upper and lower. No Joy. Let the car warm up and it seems to idle better, but still low. The shop manual picture is pretty bad for adjusting the idle on these cars, has anyone adjusted their idle before?

Ok I did the VTCS removal and now I have idle issues, do you need to turn up your idle speed after doing this? Right now I idle at 200 (barely running). I checked the vacuum lines and I think that they are all done right, since I labeled them. Any suggestions?

Ok, new info I did a compression check today. Drove the car a while and looked at the pistons, the tops were dry. Did the compression check #1 @ 140, #2 @ 140, #3 @ 150 and #4 @ 145. I know that this is the middle of the road for compression but it is still within limits. Also after the car...

The car has 170k on it. I don't think that I have ever seen anything other than clean oil on the PCV. But I have only had the car for about 2 months.

That is my next step, but I have to get another compression tester air hose because I had to modify the one that came with it to do the valves. The check valve in the end is gone due to the modification, so now the gauge will not retain the pressure.

I used air to keep the valves up. I have the supercharged millenia pcv from autozone, it does not look like there is any oil in the pcv lines at all. I know that I read some where that the millenia valve is supposed to have a higher tension spring there for reducing pcv oil loss vice the...

Anyone?

I have been combating the smoking on startup issue for a more than a month now, and I still can't figure out where it is coming from. It is blue smoke so I know that it is oil being burnt. I changed the valve seals myself already (head stayed on block), but they were rock auto ones and they...

Would the oval ones fit on the P5's like mine that have rectangle side markers? http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123790557-fender-marker-lights&highlight= see pic

Ok, today in southern california it is raining. That means that my recently purchased P5 started to leak from where the read window washer line goes to the nozzle in the hatch. Mostly running down from the headliner. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue? It is coming from the...

Thanks, I am getting a couple from another member.

does the o2 throw codes or is it good? Also will it fit a P5?

Cool. Thanks.

anyone?