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That's the o-ring that needs to be replaced, the one between the reservoir and pump. Yes the style is different. The x-ring I had you get from mcmaster is a different design that seals better. It should be the same size. That is the exact one I used on my 2006.

www.mcmaster.com It is their part number 6540K138. Expect to pay around $15 with shipping for 10 pcs.

The scratches- It's been living in my glove box for over a year. The screen has no scratches at all though. Since I just posted it I'm sticking by the $450. If I'm still sitting on it after a week or two I might drop it.

I have a Cobb AP up for sale. It is fully functional and was just removed from my 06 Speed6. This is a great upgrade for the speed6. Only reason I'm selling is because I'm getting rid of the car. It is fully unmarried and ready to be installed in your car. $450 shipped in the US. edit: Just...

What offset are you running on those wheels?

Found a thread on another forum about this problem. It was actually dealing with the 2nd gen 6's but it got me thinking. Their issue was pulling in hot air from the engine bay. I looked into how our cars pull air into the car and the cause of my problems became very clear. There are two sets of...

Ti- The AC works fine. I'm talking about when in manual mode. Also set your mode to the foot vent and you'll notice the engine idle will raise. That's the AC kicking on. The AC light doesn't come on but the AC is on regardless. I know I'm not crazy since it was doing the warmer air thing today...

At some point I had stumbled upon the procedure for getting the auto HVAC system to blow unheated outside air but can't find it now. There was a procedure of turning on the auto function and setting things a certain way then shutting off. Right now I'm about ready to smash the center console of...

At some point I had stumbled upon the procedure for getting the auto HVAC system to blow unheated outside air but can't find it now. There was a procedure of turning on the auto function and setting things a certain way then shutting off. Right now I'm about ready to smash the center console of...

If it's the front then you'll need adjustable ball joints to get any camber change. http://www.therpmstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=393

At stock or even elevated power levels I think it's more the mounts causing the axle breakage. The stock mounts allow some pretty severe movement. That forces the axle to try and drive the wheel at angles it wasn't really meant to.

I had the bog before and after adding flat foot shift or the Cobb AP for that matter.

The flat foot shifting is awesome. It totally gets rid of the hesitation when getting back on the gas after a quick shift our cars have. I've only used the LC a few times. It's a lot easier to get a good launch and nicer to the drivetrain then my non LC launches at the strip.

You need to set the launch control speed. This is the speed at which the LC rev limit shuts off and it goes to the flat foot rpm limit. By default it's some really high number. I set mine at 3. Here's a screen shot-

I've got my flat foot set @ 5,000rpm and I'm shifting @ 6,000. Launch control I put @ 3,800rpm. According to the tach though this puts me at 4,000rpm. I've also moved my idle up to 900rpm. It smooths out the vibration from the stiffer motor mounts.

I wouldn't be surprised if you find all the mounts to look OK even with all that movement. The stock mounts are ridiculously soft. I've replaced two of the three mounts because the engine was moving enough to hit something. There was nothing outwardly wrong with them. They just aren't stiff enough.

Is it a popping or a clicking? There was a TSB on clicking from the front axles on take off. The dust shield for the ABS sensor on the axle causes some slip between the face of the hub and drive axle. They listed some updated parts to fix it. A light film of grease applied to the surfaces solves...

If the noise is from the dash good chance it is not a motor mount. I'd guess the steering column is the more likely culprit. Not sure exactly what would cause it. It's just the column is really the only thing being stressed at all under the dash during take off.

I would add that drivetrain losses can't be expressed as a percentage of the total. Drivetrain losses are almost fixed. If you are losing 50hp at stock power levels you won't lose a lot more in the drivetrain as you add more power. Bearing and gear loading won't suck up power in a linear fashion...